alxns7 Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 Before I ask about how it's done, I would like to have opinions on whether I should actually change mine now. My rack boots are torn, a garage has told me the rack is leaking a little. I know I will have to change it at some point. However the fluid level is steady, steering feels great, it does not seem too bad. I'm careful not to stress the steering too much. What would you do? Should that be my next thing to fix on my list? Or can I just keep my money at the moment and change my exhaust, lights, and rear brake rotors? Just want to see if there's been any bad failure or something because of this. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyson Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 Before I ask about how it's done, I would like to have opinions on whether I should actually change mine now. My rack boots are torn, a garage has told me the rack is leaking a little. I know I will have to change it at some point. However the fluid level is steady, steering feels great, it does not seem too bad. I'm careful not to stress the steering too much. What would you do? Should that be my next thing to fix on my list? Or can I just keep my money at the moment and change my exhaust, lights, and rear brake rotors? Just want to see if there's been any bad failure or something because of this. Thanks! Get the rack sorted first, to me that's like saying I have a slow puncture but the tyre isn't deflating that much !!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted November 18, 2015 Share Posted November 18, 2015 Get the rack sorted first, to me that's like saying I have a slow puncture but the tyre isn't deflating that much !!! or you could look at it as my exhaust is a little rusty therefore I should change it? I'd be wanting to find out exactly where it was leaking from, it could be one of the copper washer points leaking ever so slightly and so the rack may be ok, replace that and the boots (assuming this is possible) and it may be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alxns7 Posted November 19, 2015 Author Share Posted November 19, 2015 Haha I see your point Tyson, but as Scooter says, it can't be that bad, it won't cause an accident. As for the leaks, I believe they come from the rack end seals. The banjo fittings are not leaking. Really I'm asking only because an exchange rack is very hard to source it seems, so I will have to leave the car for 10 days or so. Now on how to replace it, here's the procedure in the manual: REMOVAL 1. PLACE FRONT WHEELS FACING STRAIGHT AHEAD 2. REMOVE STEERING WHEEL PAD (See page SR–12) 3. REMOVE STEERING WHEEL (See page SR–12) 4. REMOVE ENGINE UNDER COVER Remove the 10 bolts. 5. REMOVE FR SUSPENSION MEMBER PROTECTOR Remove the 4 bolts. 6. DISCONNECT INTERMEDIATE SHAFT (See page SR–12) 7. DISCONNECT RH AND LH TIE ROD ENDS (See page SA–12) 8. DISCONNECT PRESSURE FEED TUBE Remove the union bolt and gasket. 9. DISCONNECT RETURN TUBE Remove the union bolt and 2 gaskets. 10. DISCONNECT PPS SOLENOID CONNECTOR 11. REMOVE RACK HOUSING BRACKET AND GROMMET Remove the 2 bolts and nuts. 12. REMOVE PS GEAR ASSEMBLY Remove the 2 bolts and nuts. Will I need special tools such as a shaft puller? Why does the steering wheel need to be removed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 (edited) If it's just weeping a tiny bit I would wash off the rack ends to remove road grit, fit new boots and leave well alone. Feel the rack boots (bellows) say once a month and if either start to swell with fluid, which will have to have been lost from the reservoir, you should consider a new rack or a good used one. The most appalling reconditioning work I have seen in my life has been that done by back street steering rack reconditioners. Rack end play got rid of by putting the ball joints in a modified fly press and crushing the housing until they became a bit tight, reused seals, ignored scoring, blah blah. A friend went for a job at one such place and was appalled at how they operated, bent steering arms and casings from crash damaged cars straightened in a vice with big steel tubes, God knows what. The boss even had his own pet name for the place, The Real Con Rack Company.... MD, Mr. Rachman (this week). Google Peter Rachman I would trust a good used rack from a none accident damaged donor car to back street recon racks any day. New from Toyota they are very costly. Cleanliness is essential, dirt and grit are the killers, as is excess fluid heat. Remove and wash out the PAS fluid reservoir with petrol or brake cleaner, there's a nylon gauze filter in it that gets clogged. DO NOT poke at it, you'll poke a hole in it. Just was and blow with an airline if you have access to one. Mind how you go over there mon ami! Edited November 19, 2015 by Chris Wilson (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alxns7 Posted November 19, 2015 Author Share Posted November 19, 2015 You know what, actually the leak probably came from excessive fluid heat in the first place, as the previous owner did not mind putting a PAS cooler when installing his FMIC, just a straight hose. I have of course fixed this and now it's got an OEM cooler. I'll check the rack ends, change the boots. How difficult is it, apart from the geometry? Can I just use universal boots? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted November 19, 2015 Share Posted November 19, 2015 You need to unlock the nuts on the track rod ends, remove the ends and the lock nuts, and cut off or slide off the old boots. Slide on the new ones and fit the sealing clips. refit lock nuts and track rod ends, and do the tracking. Very careful measurement of where the lock nuts are now should get you very close to recreating the current toe in. Difficulty may be the rod ends and lock nuts are seized. heat helps, but you really need a big welding torch to put a LOT of heat in VERY FAST to avoid wrecking the joints, then quenching them as soon as they free off. Have fun! New track rod ends from the likes of Blueprint aren't terribly expensive though, should you need them. I have never found pattern C/V boots or rack gaiters anything like as good as OE ones, although Blueprint should be OK. I wouldn't consider universal ones though, they won't last and you might as well do it once and do it right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alxns7 Posted November 20, 2015 Author Share Posted November 20, 2015 Super, thanks Chris! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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