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Removing stuff in TTC mode!


Guest JapEmil

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Guest JapEmil

Hi, have google much but can't find a good answer on my question!

 

Which part can i get rid of if I'm in TTC mode on my bpu supra? i have apexis boost controller!

 

i get so confused with all the actuators on the engine!

 

Can i get rid off all the hard vacuum lines that is so ugly?

 

 

Can i get rid of this actuator if i wire the arm open?

IMG_0650 edit.jpg

 

can i get rid of this actuator to if i wire the arm open?

IMG_0647 edit.jpg

 

Can i throw this tank and the connector thing thats attached to it away?

IMG_0648 edit.jpg

 

can i throw this 2 connectors away?

IMG_0649 edit.jpg

 

and this 2 connectors?

IMG_0647 edit 2.jpg

 

and is this actuator in use when in ttc or can i just unplug it and leave it?

IMG_0646 edit.jpg

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Guest JapEmil
As above, TTC mode still uses all the pipework to open the valves so you cant remove it. Plus when you sell the car the next person might hate TTC mode (a lot of people do) so it would be a right bind trying to find all the bits again.

 

Ofcourse i will save the stuff that i remove, but if i wire the flaps open? Then the actuator top on the enginge and the big actuator under the exhaust dont have any function any more? I want a clean engineroom as possible with the twinturbos still on! Dont have the cash for a single upgrade yet!

 

There must be someonr out there who has did the permanent TTC?

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Ofcourse i will save the stuff that i remove, but if i wire the flaps open? Then the actuator top on the enginge and the big actuator under the exhaust dont have any function any more? I want a clean engineroom as possible with the twinturbos still on! Dont have the cash for a single upgrade yet!

 

There must be someonr out there who has did the permanent TTC?

 

I ran permanent ttc, romeved all the lines and acutators, i did not wire anything open, i acually removed the valves thats connected to the arms, in downpipe and in the pipe from the turbo

http://s8.postimg.org/he834yq8h/IMG_20150805_153103.jpg

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Is there not an actuator that splits the intake too that needs to be wired open? Can be removed once done though. With the valves open, as above, the whole lot can come out other than the tubby (wastegate) actuators. I wouldn't really do it though. It's a lot of work for not a massive amount of gain. I'd definitely ditch the hard pipes over the top though. Never liked them.

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The main thing to wire open is the exhaust flap actuator, the rest can be removed, all the VSVs and the spider web from the top of the pipework, I think I even removed the read valve in the rear pipework, just don't remove the turbo actuators.

 

Is there any performance gain to be had with running TTC in this fashion?

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Is there any performance gain to be had with running TTC in this fashion?

 

Doubt it but I guess the potential is there. None of the boost energy will be wasted opening the actuators so I guess there SHOULD be an improvement. I doubt it'll be at all noticeable though.

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Guest JapEmil
The main thing to wire open is the exhaust flap actuator, the rest can be removed, all the VSVs and the spider web from the top of the pipework, I think I even removed the read valve in the rear pipework, just don't remove the turbo actuators.

 

Thanks for answers mate :)

 

How did you do with the actuator on the second turbo? I dont mean the one you se on the top back of the enginge i mean the one that behond the engine? I think thats also hooked to the spiderweb?

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Thanks for answers mate :)

 

How did you do with the actuator on the second turbo? I dont mean the one you se on the top back of the enginge i mean the one that behond the engine? I think thats also hooked to the spiderweb?

 

 

I think you will find that the one at the back is the rear turbo WG actuator, you need to keep both, as for performance in TTC you will loose the very low down boost from the first turbo, but get more of a sense of a bigger turbo when they both spool, IE bigger boost hit, but you really need some form of boost control to avoid spikes, and at minimum a decent piggyback like EMU to deal with the fuelling and timing spikes, you will need more fuel when both turbos spool and more in general due to airflow increase earlier in the RPM/load range, plus the need to advance and retard the ign timing in response to the late and increased boost/load.

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Guest JapEmil
I think you will find that the one at the back is the rear turbo WG actuator, you need to keep both, as for performance in TTC you will loose the very low down boost from the first turbo, but get more of a sense of a bigger turbo when they both spool, IE bigger boost hit, but you really need some form of boost control to avoid spikes, and at minimum a decent piggyback like EMU to deal with the fuelling and timing spikes, you will need more fuel when both turbos spool and more in general due to airflow increase earlier in the RPM/load range, plus the need to advance and retard the ign timing in response to the late and increased boost/load.

 

Yes i know were it is. i have a pic of it in the first post :) but where did you connect it to if you get rid of the hard vaccum lines?

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More increased torque a lot earlier in the rev/load range, it definitely noticeable, but needs mapping for to get the best from it.

 

I have an ETTC switch in mine, so I often flick between the two. TTC is louder, and more aggressive when the turbos come on. But it's less torquey at the lower end of the Rev range, so for general driving sequential is much nicer.

 

Personally, for how easy the ETTC mod is, I don't know why people bother with TTC.

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