Jam127 Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 Ok so iv looked at all the possibilities, iv checked linkage in passenger footwell all is good. What iv found is on pipe is hot going into the bulkhead - the one on the right looking at the car and the other is cold.. This means a blockage?? Just lookingn for a second opinion before trying to flush it Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
masterfett Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 probably by the sounds of it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 could be an airlock in the matrix. raise the front of the car high as you can and run for a few minutes (from cold) with the rad cap off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattdavies Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 could be an airlock in the matrix. raise the front of the car high as you can and run for a few minutes (from cold) with the rad cap off. With the heater on Hot !! and the blower turned up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 Take both pipes off by the bulkhead, put a garden hose on one side of the matrix, turn hose on, see if water comes out of the other freely. Yes? No blockage. No? Blockage. I found this tip on rocketscience.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jam127 Posted October 22, 2015 Author Share Posted October 22, 2015 Cheers guys. Chris i was only asking for a second opinion before stripping it down no need to be nasty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 Too sensitive for my cruel humour Serious suggestion though, if they have a water valve it will show, with minimal effort and dismantling, if it's not opening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Havard Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 It will probably be an air lock. They are a bastard to shift. I fitted a top up point at the highest point of the system (bulk head), never had a problem after that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herbiemercman Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 I just had an airlock this week, i ran engine on tick over and then took off the heater matrix flow pipe and placed a funnel in the pipe and added coolant, when it was full i reconnected the pipe, problem solved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 Was it warm previously? I'm having a similar issue but I think mine is related to the drive arm not opening & closing (wiring fault). The linkage is connected but when I move from cold to hot, it doesn't budge. I'll hopefully be investigating it over the weekend. I can't think of any reason for the valve to be jammed shut so I'm going to disconnect the linkage and see if the valve is free. If it is, then it's into the wiring (fun). Check from underneath with the fans on. Turn the temperature to cool then over to hot after a few seconds. If you see the valve move then you're OK at that end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Havard Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 Was it warm previously? I'm having a similar issue but I think mine is related to the drive arm not opening & closing (wiring fault). The linkage is connected but when I move from cold to hot, it doesn't budge. I'll hopefully be investigating it over the weekend. I can't think of any reason for the valve to be jammed shut so I'm going to disconnect the linkage and see if the valve is free. If it is, then it's into the wiring (fun). Check from underneath with the fans on. Turn the temperature to cool then over to hot after a few seconds. If you see the valve move then you're OK at that end. Control arms are prone to falling off. Will probably be that Scott. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 I am not sure if they have a water valve, or just the air flap to direct air through, or around the core. You know, in all the years I have worked on MKIV's I have never had an air lock in the heater matrix, yet others seem to have them regularly. Guess I have just been lucky! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted October 22, 2015 Share Posted October 22, 2015 Control arms are prone to falling off. Will probably be that Scott. Linkage is connected Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jam127 Posted October 22, 2015 Author Share Posted October 22, 2015 Iv been under the footwell and all is good and moving there so i know its not that at fault.. Iv just a new engine built and fitted and its not been hot since that but was fine before so has to be air somewhere. Gona start simple by parking on a steep hill and letting it heat up with cap off first if no luck then il fill matrix from bulkhead with coolant maybe flush il see when it comes to it il post on here again tommorow with my results! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jam127 Posted October 23, 2015 Author Share Posted October 23, 2015 Ok so iv had both pipes off and water runs through no problem. Heaters are a little hotter but wouldnt say great, just the one hose is hot not both. Also the bottom rad hose isnt hot but the top one is Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 Ok so iv had both pipes off and water runs through no problem. Heaters are a little hotter but wouldnt say great, just the one hose is hot not both. Also the bottom rad hose isnt hot but the top one is You need to allow your car to heat up fully before bleeding it. The reason the bottom one isn't hot is because the thermostat is closed. This won't open until the engine is up to temp. Get your car on a steep hill facing upwards, take off the rad cap and let it heat up fully until both the upper and lower pipes are hot. While it's heating up, give the matrix pipes a squeeze periodically to push through any air. While all this is going on have the heater on hot and full. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 Have you filled up your expansion tank and just taken it for a short drive yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 How long have you run it for? If leaving it idling for 30 minutes with the rad cap off and watching the water level doesn't fix it I woul suspect the thermostat is stuck open, or someone has fitted one those (totally unsuitable for road car engines) "cool" thermostats from the likes of TRD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jam127 Posted October 23, 2015 Author Share Posted October 23, 2015 I had it running on a hill last night for ages. Iv let it idle for 25mins today with the cap off heaters on, they are better but not roasting hot id say pretty warm at most. Chris im not sure what thermostat is in it but when running it likes to sit between 79 and 83 deg, well so my commander tells me. Iv filled the expansion tank, what am i looking for regarding that? Thanks again guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 That's too cold, probably needs a new `stat in it. Get a genuine Toyota one, or a Blueprint one, a lot of the aftermarket ones are junk. Get a new seal for it, in case the old one is missing or brittle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 While your at Toyota i'd pop a new rad cap on it at the same time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trebor69 Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 (edited) Never had an air lock in any of mine either although they always tend to blow cold after a refill until I take it for a blast (from warm) and drive in 2nd up to around 5 or 6k revs then let off the throttle while it "engine brakes" back down to around 2k..... Usually feel the heat kick in then. I would also mention that after 20 years of being driven around without flushing then the fine particles build up to form a hard mass that needs attacking with something other than a gentle flow of water to clear. Should mention that mine is an auto hence the holding it in 2nd.....Or follow the same procedure in Drive but with the overdrive off. Edited October 23, 2015 by trebor69 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jam127 Posted October 23, 2015 Author Share Posted October 23, 2015 Seems to be fine now guys.. Was giving all the pipes a good squeeze with a top up everytime and that seemed to have done the trick. Chris its ran at that temp ever since iv had it and iv had no problems i start to get worried if it reaches 85 sitting idling lol Thanks for everyones input ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 It should be around 85 idling though, this is a good thing. I think the running temp of the engine is around 90+ degrees. Think mine idles bang on 90 once warm. As Chris says, if you don't have a thermostat in there then it'll do exactly what you are experiencing regarding cooler running temps. This isn't a good thing bud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herbiemercman Posted October 23, 2015 Share Posted October 23, 2015 (edited) Hard to see if anyone would try running without a thermostat ? In the colder weather the engine needs to warm up as quickly as possible, oil especially, and goes without saying a good heater output. The thermostat also acts as a flow controller and optimises the degree of cavitation and surface errosion and ecconomy etc, inside the engine etc. Also complete combustion and everything supporting the engine relies on the design optimum running temperature, if you are above this to any degree, or, below it, you will eventually have problems. I have cars and a boat with big twin diesel engines and i know from experience that the engine thermostats are a very important piece of kit. Finally, if you live in the south were the water is quite hard, (high PH value), and you have been using a water based coolant, then you can expect on an old car where the heater element and the cooling radiator will be well calcified with dissolved salts, the salts are a good insulator and increase the pressure drop across them, and reduce the coolant flow, so overheating of the engine's cooling system and with the heater element, little heat being extracted from the element. I bought my daughter a 1.7 tdi vauxhall from Essex some time back, it was 6 yers old and had 75k on the clock, good little bus, but the heater was very poor, after trying all the usual stuff, thermostat, air locks, etc, i changed the heater matrix, problem solved, out of interest i cut open the old matrix and was amazed at the 80% restriction caused by calcification etc. I have just spent £40 on Toyota "Forlife" coolant 10 litres,now called 4life, this avoids all what i have said, for 10 years. herbiemercman. Edited October 23, 2015 by herbiemercman added extra text. (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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