mwilkinson Posted January 4, 2017 Author Share Posted January 4, 2017 Bloody good work, top marks. If your anything like me, finding the correct glue was worse than doing the actual job! Kev Thanks Kev. Basically I didn't find an appropriate glue and just had to make do. What glue have you used? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evinX Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 Thanks Kev. Basically I didn't find an appropriate glue and just had to make do. What glue have you used? Araldite works well for me on alot of plastics on the car including my cam cover, i find i have to use a 40-80 grit on each peice, then the araldtie reallys grabs, smooth ends to join are a no no, i would have given PU sealant ago on the dash panels but there will still be a little flex. I would have joined the 2 peices by clamps, got mesh wire, sink it in from the rear over the joins with a solder iron and put PU sealant all over the meshed areas. Solid join. Done it before on busted healight brackets etc and you can hold the repaired peice, swing it around and what not and it wont budge. Id be slightly worried over time if crack lines apper due to heat temps in the cabin and the expansion between the 2 part epoxy and the plastic panels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted January 4, 2017 Author Share Posted January 4, 2017 The joint seems very robust at the moment but I accept it may be subject to movement with age and heat. It will definately need to be monitored. You won't be able to plastic welding this stuff. I tried and it just burns. It won't adhere to itself. I suspect this is an inherent property of the plastic. I did overlap the joints and they were rough sanded. I suspect this is why it feels so strong. I also clamped the he'll out of it and left it to dry for a few days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evinX Posted January 4, 2017 Share Posted January 4, 2017 The joint seems very robust at the moment but I accept it may be subject to movement with age and heat. It will definately need to be monitored. You won't be able to plastic welding this stuff. I tried and it just burns. It won't adhere to itself. I suspect this is an inherent property of the plastic. I did overlap the joints and they were rough sanded. I suspect this is why it feels so strong. I also clamped the he'll out of it and left it to dry for a few days. If it feels strong and dosent break easily i feel you have done the best that can be done then, if it burns instead of melting it wont stick to itself. Shame really but none the less, top marks for the job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animato Posted January 5, 2017 Share Posted January 5, 2017 The panel with the 3 openings is a UK spec panel. The facelift car only ever came with a single opening. This is why I have had to cut the two panels and make a bespoke one. On the UK Spec the ipenings contained the rear fog light, headlight adjustment and headlight washers. I'm only going to use two (power mirrors and rear fog light), so I could totally fill one of the holes, or I have a factory blanking plate I could use. Alright, I understand now why you had to merge both UK 3-opening and JDM 1-opening bezels... Well, I think this was worth the effort, it looks great ! Are you going to paint it with a matching color ? Regarding the glue problematic you were mentioning, I use a Sicomet 77 from Henkel in my daily job (car interior manufacturing) to mock-up engineering solutions. It is extremely stiff, and ages very well in climatic chambers. For a bezel like this one without real mechanical constrain, it could be a good option. I usually spray the glued area with a Sicomet Hi Speed BS accelerator from Henkel as well in order to get a instant bonding. This tandem glues pretty damn fast, mind your fingers ! Some internet links, for info : - Sicomet 77 : http://klebstoff-bank.de/product_info.php?info=p55_sicomet-77--sofortklebstoff--50g.html - Sicomet Hi Speed BS accelerator : http://klebstoff-bank.de/product_info.php?info=p53_sichel-aktivator-hi-speed-bs-150-ml.html I hope this can be of help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted January 5, 2017 Author Share Posted January 5, 2017 Alright, I understand now why you had to merge both UK 3-opening and JDM 1-opening bezels... Well, I think this was worth the effort, it looks great ! Are you going to paint it with a matching color ? Regarding the glue problematic you were mentioning, I use a Sicomet 77 from Henkel in my daily job (car interior manufacturing) to mock-up engineering solutions. It is extremely stiff, and ages very well in climatic chambers. For a bezel like this one without real mechanical constrain, it could be a good option. I usually spray the glued area with a Sicomet Hi Speed BS accelerator from Henkel as well in order to get a instant bonding. This tandem glues pretty damn fast, mind your fingers ! Some internet links, for info : - Sicomet 77 : http://klebstoff-bank.de/product_info.php?info=p55_sicomet-77--sofortklebstoff--50g.html - Sicomet Hi Speed BS accelerator : http://klebstoff-bank.de/product_info.php?info=p53_sichel-aktivator-hi-speed-bs-150-ml.html I hope this can be of help. That's very helpful. Thanks. I will indeed be painting the panel to match the rest of the facelift ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted January 12, 2017 Author Share Posted January 12, 2017 Whilst doing this it came to my attention that the fog light switch is discontinued. This was going to scupper my plans considerably. Luckily Paul at TCB Parts had one for sale second hand. Bonus! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted January 16, 2017 Author Share Posted January 16, 2017 All sanded back and primed. Still some finishing work to do on a few parts. But not looking bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burna Posted January 16, 2017 Share Posted January 16, 2017 Very impressed with this, and your attention to detail to achieve a solution that you want I did a similar cut and paste job to repair my top dash panel, I used Gorilla glue, and it's held well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted January 16, 2017 Author Share Posted January 16, 2017 The question is, can I get a facelift matching colour from a readily available spray can? Anyone know? If the joint holds I will spend the money on having it sprayed by a bodyshop, but as a stop gap I want a reasonably close colour to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animato Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 The question is, can I get a facelift matching colour from a readily available spray can? Anyone know? If the joint holds I will spend the money on having it sprayed by a bodyshop, but as a stop gap I want a reasonably close colour to use. Would anyone have a good idea for this ? I am also greatly interested by a paint that could match the facelift dark grey used on the interior dash trims. A dark grey paint with metallic pigments and matt clear coat is the way, but not easy to find So far, the best I could find is a Tamiya acrylic TS38 (Gun Metal) spray can, combined with a matt clear coat. This is scale modelling paint, but resists to almost everything ! This is not exactly the right match though, but gets close... Hoping someone else managed to find an interesting match ! Jeremy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evinX Posted March 24, 2017 Share Posted March 24, 2017 If the TS38 is a good match then a coat of matt clear should do it. Spraymax do a matt clear 2k in a can. Ive used it. Pricey but great quality stuff. Tamiya acrylic base will be as good as and acrylic 1k spray like halfords do. The protection will be in the clear coat. Sounds promising. Tamiya gunmetals are usually true to their name. Tamiya TS38 painted on a model: Imagine it with a matt finish Id personally take a panel down to the local paint shop, get them to pull out all the paint chip cards and pick one just a tad lighter than the panel as the clear coat will darken the base colour slightly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animato Posted April 3, 2017 Share Posted April 3, 2017 That's a very good advice indeed, I only though about the paint shop later... I will check this as well. Meanwhile, I just ordered and received the Tamiya matt clear coat and semi-gloss clear coat. I will give it a try on a couple of ABS sample plates, see how it looks ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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