herbiemercman Posted October 14, 2015 Author Share Posted October 14, 2015 Hi Scott, You may be correct, but i would be suprised if the power steering oil worked hard enough to warrant a cooling system ? I have oil coolers on my big merc for the autobox and SLS (self lev.susp), but these work hard and the oil does get hot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 It is a crude and rather horrible PAS cooler (that's prone to rust out and leak). A track day on a tight circuit can easily boil the PAS fluid on a MKIV. On manual cars I fit an auto rad, and use the oil to water heat exchanger in the bottom radiator tank as a far better PAS heat exchanger. Very easy to do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted October 14, 2015 Share Posted October 14, 2015 Hi Scott, You may be correct, but i would be suprised if the power steering oil worked hard enough to warrant a cooling system ? I have oil coolers on my big merc for the autobox and SLS (self lev.susp), but these work hard and the oil does get hot. As Chris says, you would be very surprised by just how hot the PAS fluid gets. It's really high pressures that it's working with and the pump goes some when at full chat. You should have a gentle feel of your PAS reservoir after a country road blast. Very necessary cooler, even if it is a crappy one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herbiemercman Posted October 14, 2015 Author Share Posted October 14, 2015 (edited) I can say i never used an oil cooler on my old one at over 400hp and didn't use any heat shielding on brake/clutch components nearby Seems yours is definitely getting quite hot for whatever reason I would only fit an oil cooler if your using a proper thermostatic sandwich plate, without one your oil will be running through all the time and in winter months will be over cooling, Hi berg, Only just seen your posting, you are the only member to date who is supporting the "no oil cooler" needed situation, this is also firmly the case with my NA/T man, who is probably the leader over the past decade with NA/T conversions, with 100% reviews from his customers. This is why he is testing and getting to the bottom of why i have this hot oil problem, and it may turn out to be some thing as basic as a faulty, cheap oil pressure gauge ? I hope it is that, as i do not want to fit an oil cooler. If the bottom line turns out to be i do need an oil cooler, then i know the thermostatic adapter plate is essential. The semi synthetic oil is quite adequate according to my NA/T man and lots of examples of him being correct, i just jumped to the conclusion that a fully synth is required, and it will take on the temp better, but will not solve my problem, that is, if i have one ? it may just be a faulty oil temp gauge, and i hope it is ? herbiemercman. Edited October 14, 2015 by herbiemercman (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herbiemercman Posted October 14, 2015 Author Share Posted October 14, 2015 Thanks for info Scott, they are not engine oil pipes, did not know the power steering gets hot, i do now, so i can forget the idea to connect the engine oil cooler to these pipes, goes to show a little knowledge and assumptions are not good. lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 135C is too high for sump oil temperature so as many have said, an oil cooler is the way ahead. Once fitted your oil temperature shouldn't really ever go over 120C and be more around the 110C level on normal spirited driving. With a turbo, its not essential but its always good practice to use a fully synthetic oil which can, being a narrow cut, maintain its original properties for longer at higher temperatures. When I drain my oil which usually happens after around 2,000 to 3,000 miles it still looks and smells like new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted October 15, 2015 Share Posted October 15, 2015 135C is too high for sump oil temperature so as many have said, an oil cooler is the way ahead. Once fitted your oil temperature shouldn't really ever go over 120C and be more around the 110C level on normal spirited driving. With a turbo, its not essential but its always good practice to use a fully synthetic oil which can, being a narrow cut, maintain its original properties for longer at higher temperatures. When I drain my oil which usually happens after around 2,000 to 3,000 miles it still looks and smells like new. You're wasting good oil then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 You're wasting good oil then I'd tend to agree but its possibly a factor in why after 110,000 miles the engine runs sweet and the oil level stays the same as when the engine is filled. Oil is after all one of the cheaper critical components within the engine and if you run a Supra properly, there's no point being cheap about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herbiemercman Posted October 17, 2015 Author Share Posted October 17, 2015 Hi rider, I fully agree, i have just 42,000 miles on from new,so this is why i want to avoid any overheating or reduction in lubrication. The mileage is 100% genuine as i bought the car new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted October 17, 2015 Share Posted October 17, 2015 3000 miles per service isn't the reason the engine is mint though. 10k per service would be absolutely fine. I would at least double your miles. Regular servicing with good oil is the key. Taking out clean oil from an engine is pointless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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