Facelift TT drivers side engine mount

[Scooter]

My new facelift had the classic signs of a dead engine mount, vibration when in D or R when stationary that goes in P or N.

 

This I'll admit from the start will not be a great 'how to' as I wasn't sure I'd succeed to be honest and there are no pictures (might add some when I do the front shocks soon) however I'd happily help where I can if anyone reads this in the future and feels like taking it on.

 

However I wanted to state this is possible without any major engine lifting equipment. I got the car up on four axle stands (having the car level'ish does help I believe) and then any slight (we're are talking mm's here) engine supporting/lifting was done with a standard boot scissor jack and block of wood on the sump.

 

This method involves taking the mount and its bracket off as one, so it slides off fine. With the bracket left on, the engine needs to be lifted some distance to enable the engine mount to be removed and would need an engine crane etc.

 

The problem with this method is that access is very tight, for all four 14mm bolts, the front most two bolts particularly are awkward.

 

So with the drivers side front wheel off there is a portal into the engine bay. There is a little bracing piece held on with x4 14mm bolts/nuts, remove this, then there is a turbo/exhaust brace piece, x2 14mm again one into / towards the block one closer to you and more upwards. At this stage you are just giving yourself room to get access to the rear two mount bolts......to be continued

Edited March 15, 2017 by Scooter
to update for Passenger side mount info (see edit history)

[Scooter]

Ok you should now be able to look up at the mount bracket and mount. At the base of the mount there is a triangular metal piece and if the mount is tired there will be little to no gap above it and the main body of the mount. undo the lower mount nut with a 19mm deep socket and then gently use your scissor jack and block of wood to take the weight off the mount. Please take care with this and make sure you are spreading the load on the full 6" or so of the drivers side wall of the black steel sump section. You only need to lift a mm or so, so that you can see the metal triangle is now slightly separated from the subframe.

 

This takes the weight off the four bolts you are going to now remove. You will need patience and every 14mm ratchet spanner and socket you have. The bolts are tight but once cracked are soon finger tight. The key for me was having something to slip over the spanner to give more leverage. Also 12 point heads can make the difference between getting a good angle of attack or being stumped.

 

The rear two bolts I got out fairly easily. After some time and tea I realised the front two are so tucked up out of the way that I had to do some serious removal of surrounding items to give me a chance. So rad shroud, fan and alternator came out before I could finally access the other two bolts fully. I would say if it goes like it did for me you will be stepping away and trying a different combo of tool pieces until one clears and allows you to apply the pressure required. (Obligatory Knuckle scraps and swearing)

 

once they are off the whole mount and bracket can be removed from below through the wheel arch hole.

 

Then the 17mm top engine mount nut can be removed and the new mount bolted on to the bracket nb I'm not sure it mattered but I left this loose to allow some movement of the bracket to help get the bracket bolts back in. With the engine mount seated in the subframe hole, you will need to tweak the engine up a bit again to line up the bracket holes to the block (the new engine mount will have greater clearance than the collapsed ok'd one) Get one bolt started a few turns then move onto the others, small hands help but you should be ok working in these confined spaces by now! Once they are all started then you are very much on the home stretch, take your time to tighten them back up nicely and don't forget the 17mm top engine mount nut or the 19mm underneath.

 

When you fire her up she should be transformed, unless the passenger side mount is gone too! Mine is fine but I have another new mount so the passenger side will get done at some point.

 

This took me hours but was very satisfying to have completed.

Edited October 5, 2015 by Scooter (see edit history)

[Scooter]

I just thought I post up that last weekend I finally got round to replacing the passenger side engine mount.

 

Again access is 'very' tight, but car engine supported as above, front wheel off, the same x4 bolt little bracket support piece can be removed, also the rubber pipe from the drain.

 

In through the hole created, undo the intake manifold support brace at the bottom, then in the engine bay the top bolt and also dipstick tube top bolt (i think this needs removing to get access). All this is to help gain access to the 2 rear most engine mount bracket bolts (again I wanted to remove the whole mount and bracket). I will say again they are very tight and various tools will need to be used to get them loose, I actually cut the open end off a 14mm ratchet spanner to allow me to then place a tube over it.

 

Re the front two bolts, I removed an earth cable to help with access and the lower one is fairly easy to get to, the upper one is the 'nemesis bolt'. It will not come out fully even if you manage to loosen it as it contacts the oil filter housing.

 

So now the oil filter housing needs removing. I would make sure you are in a clean environment or it's a wind free day as this obviously opens up the engine to contamination (sand/dirt etc) The coolant needs to be part drained and then using a long flexi hose clip remover undo the two coolant hoses to the filter housing. Then there is one large 25mm or 27mm nut holding the housing :)on, you can then remove it completely (might pay to remove the oil filter at the first step) and clean it up around the seal (perhaps have a new seal to go on) and plug the block with something to reduce the risk of anything getting into the oilways (damping down the area/thorough cleaning prior to even starting the job advised). This will allow easy access to the final bolt, then the whole mount and bracket can be removed.

 

Obviously the new mount has to go back in first before the oil housing! but once out it's a very much easier process to put everything back to how it was

 

I think I will measure the gap on the mounts shortly to show the gap on brand new ones so others can at least see how theirs are doing? It's not if but when with the facelift mounts