binfieldx Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 Hi All, Turns out my supra has a slow puncture in it's rear tyre (a very slow one). Anyway Japshow Finale is coming up and I wanted to run it on the strip so I'd imagine it's not a good idea to do with a slow puncture even if it's correctly pumped up before? I was planning to get two new rears so I can run it at pod but basically I don't want to get all 4 new ones at this point in time so would it be a bad idea to run for example two bridgestones on the rear and the two already on the front, nangkangs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattdavies Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 I dont see any problem with this as the axles will have the same tyres on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CraigMoSupraRSP Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 Well you'd have no grip at the front and loads at the back...I currently have no grip front or back (nangkangs all round from import) but will change them when she comes out of the garage after winter [emoji41] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
binfieldx Posted September 22, 2015 Author Share Posted September 22, 2015 Well you'd have no grip at the front and loads at the back...I currently have no grip front or back (nangkangs all round from import) but will change them when she comes out of the garage after winter [emoji41] Exactly how mine came from Japan, nangkang NS-2's all around. The rears still have loads of tread so unsure whether to get another new nangkang Ns2 or just swap both rears to bridgestones as I'll be doing the front at some point in the new year anyway. Annoying as there is still 5-6mm tread on both nangkang rears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CraigMoSupraRSP Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 Exactly how mine came from Japan, nangkang NS-2's all around. The rears still have loads of tread so unsure whether to get another new nangkang Ns2 or just swap both rears to bridgestones as I'll be doing the front at some point in the new year anyway. Annoying this is there is still 5-6mm tread on both nangkang rears. Same here, loads of tread on all of mine too, it's 'okay' in the dry but as soon as it starts to rain it's pretty useless, short term it won't be a problem, but I think it's better to have the same type all round, and since this is what you're planning, I wouldn't worry too much [emoji106] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
binfieldx Posted September 22, 2015 Author Share Posted September 22, 2015 You think I can run the strip with a slow puncture? Wouldn't want the tyre blowing out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 Why not just get the puncture repaired? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
binfieldx Posted September 22, 2015 Author Share Posted September 22, 2015 (edited) Why not just get the puncture repaired? Well that's also an option but I'm questioning the puncture at the moment. I need to get the wheel off and submerge it in water to see where its leaking. This is the same alloy that I damaged a few months back on a curb and it was repaired. It hasn't gone down at all for 2 months and then one day I randomly come out to it being flat. Pump it back up and it's fine, take it for a drive and leave it over night and it's still pumped. Randomly come out on a morning a week later and it's flat again. Seems to decide when it wants to go down so i'm unsure if its when I park it on a certain part of the alloy it leaks air or if its got a nail in it or something. I've tried putting soap around the rim on both sides and can't see any bubbles from leaking air so it's a weird one. (Edit - It's not someone letting it down as when I took It out for another test drive it was fine all night even after 60 miles, then I stopped in a car park for 15mins and when I drove off it had gone completely flat again! Pumped it up and drove home and it still hasn't gone flat..) Edited September 22, 2015 by binfieldx (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 Check your valve - it could be that which is causing the leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
binfieldx Posted September 22, 2015 Author Share Posted September 22, 2015 I haven't checked that actually Is that a simple fix if it is leaking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 I'd make damned sure a repaired rim is not cracked and leaking. The wife bought a Soarer TT years ago and a front tyre appeared to have a slow puncture that was getting worse. I took the wheel off and dunked it in a tub of water and the air was escaping from the rim. I took the tyre off and crack tested the rim, which was branded and a reputable make. It had a hairline crack in it. I welded it up, but was never very happy about it. A cracked *CAST* rim is a disaster just waiting to happen and I would *NOT* attempt a cast repair. hers were forged and as such much safer to effect a weld repair on. Quite why it was cracked I don't know, there was no sign of damage other than the crack... Cast rims can explode, forged ones bend if hit. I don't like heavy cars on cast wheels, period. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 The valve has a removable insert in it, so if a bit of spit on the un-capped end bubbles it needs a new insert. there are commonly 2 types, long and short. A tyre place will have hundreds of them, and the little slotted tool to remove and re-fit them. If it's a bolt in valve it may be leaking at the sealing washers where it goes through the wall of the rim. That needs removing and a proper examination made of what's going on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
binfieldx Posted September 22, 2015 Author Share Posted September 22, 2015 I'd make damned sure a repaired rim is not cracked and leaking. The wife bought a Soarer TT years ago and a front tyre appeared to have a slow puncture that was getting worse. I took the wheel off and dunked it in a tub of water and the air was escaping from the rim. I took the tyre off and crack tested the rim, which was branded and a reputable make. It had a hairline crack in it. I welded it up, but was never very happy about it. A cracked *CAST* rim is a disaster just waiting to happen and I would *NOT* attempt a cast repair. hers were forged and as such much safer to effect a weld repair on. Quite why it was cracked I don't know, there was no sign of damage other than the crack... Cast rims can explode, forged ones bend if hit. I don't like heavy cars on cast wheels, period. My ones are forged and only the outer lip was damaged with the curb, I took it to a very well known wheel repairer who I fully trust and he did a remarkable job repairing it. I would have thought if it was the rim leaking it would have done that months ago as it's been fine for months on end? Guess i'll check the valvefirst and if not i'll have to whip it off and try the water test! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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