vmax2000cc Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 Own a Jspec N/A Auto Car starts fine but as up warms up, give it about 10 mins and the car wants to cut out at idle at traffic lights but a quick start up and ok for a little length of time The steering gets stiff, the dials on the Rev count counter go up and down and the car jerks a tiny bit with a loss of power but it keeps going until you stop. I've used Google (dangerous with a million answers) many are pointing to alternator but it starts all the time. Other one is sensor assist vacuum which I haven't taken off yet but did check around it no leaks no splits etc. If anyone has an idea then i'm all eyes and ears. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Iky Posted September 11, 2015 Share Posted September 11, 2015 Try cleaning the idle control valve. There is a guide on here somewhere which shows you how. If not too far away, I can do it for you. Iky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vmax2000cc Posted October 3, 2015 Author Share Posted October 3, 2015 Would of taken your offer but live in Devon and doubt the car would of made it Now in a garage and they changed the distributor cap and arm but again same problem. They have recently taken it to Toyota who reckon it's a temperature sensor. Anyone with any ideas then please let me know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vmax2000cc Posted October 11, 2015 Author Share Posted October 11, 2015 Would of taken your offer but live in Devon and doubt the car would of made it Now in a garage and they changed the distributor cap and arm but again same problem. They have recently taken it to Toyota who reckon it's a temperature sensor. Anyone with any ideas then please let me know A little update, Toyota have reset ECU, changed plugs, cap and temp sensor and the car isn't working well still. Anyone with an idea then please help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 Did you clean the idle control valve yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Havard Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 I am going to go for a crack or solder fault in the speedo converter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herbiemercman Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 I had this exact same problem and it was the idler valve, easy job to clean, but if it is the electronic bit with an intermitant fault, you need a new valve and they are silly money. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vmax2000cc Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share Posted October 12, 2015 (edited) Thanks for the replies I will look into each one. A little update, Toyota it seems have fcuked this car. Given back with MANU button no longer working and all confuses on what to do. Haven't got any tools to clean idle valve but will borrow some tools and try, fingers crossed there is a guide on here but i'm sure it's basic. My new worry is that toyota have buggered something else when fiddling the ecu. Power is almost non existent. Edit: left the car running at idle to see later results and it seems it won't rev past 4000rpm and loads of dark smoke coming out Edited October 12, 2015 by vmax2000cc (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Havard Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 Thanks for the replies I will look into each one. A little update, Toyota it seems have fcuked this car. Given back with MANU button no longer working and all confuses on what to do. Haven't got any tools to clean idle valve but will borrow some tools and try, fingers crossed there is a guide on here but i'm sure it's basic. My new worry is that toyota have buggered something else when fiddling the ecu. Power is almost non existent. One thing I would advise with an older car, never take it back to the original manufacturer. The expertise have probably moved on to independents and doing it for themselves at a slightly cheaper rate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vmax2000cc Posted October 12, 2015 Author Share Posted October 12, 2015 One thing I would advise with an older car, never take it back to the original manufacturer. The expertise have probably moved on to independents and doing it for themselves at a slightly cheaper rate. Wasn't my choice, couldn't send it to my garage and he recommended someone else. They then sent it to Toyota (without my permission) and explained they can sort the problem. Turns out both Toyota and this company couldn't either. Car I presume is in limp mode as I said previously it's 4k max when put foot down and makes a ticking nosie in the background (think like a chopper from a distance) I'll check the ICV first when I get the chance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott-tt Posted October 12, 2015 Share Posted October 12, 2015 I'd say idle control valve too, I saw a similar problem once and that was what it turned out to be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Sherbertmelon Posted October 16, 2015 Share Posted October 16, 2015 I have a similar issue but mine is a manual converted 93 NA :/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vmax2000cc Posted August 16, 2017 Author Share Posted August 16, 2017 Dragging this thread up as an update to confirm it's two problems. Throttle body were really dirty and now cleaned and it now starts up fine. Low voltage in alternator that works but saps the battery and will need replacing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Annabella Posted August 16, 2017 Share Posted August 16, 2017 Wow that's a long fault fix! Cheers for posting solution. Hope the car run's fine on a run when you swap the alternator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vmax2000cc Posted August 16, 2017 Author Share Posted August 16, 2017 Wow that's a long fault fix! Cheers for posting solution. Hope the car run's fine on a run when you swap the alternator. Two kids and two jobs have forced it into storage. Car runs well but the voltage is 10 running 9 when lights are on someone also saying the bus fuse might be worth a look too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 17, 2017 Share Posted August 17, 2017 Have you done a Tipex test on the crank damper? I have just come to this thread and see you said the steering went heavy. The PAS pump and the alternator (as well as A/C pump and water pump) are all driven off the crank damper... Could be the regulator in the alternator, but could also be the crank damper has de-laminated and the outer is slipping on the inner. DO NOT adjust throttle stop screws or move TPS sensor. Just DO NOT.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra87 Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 Good to see you've not given up I'd stick a new alternator and battery on both very easy to replace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 Check the CP first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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