pete.osborne69 Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 OK so I have relocated the fuse box to inside the car and the battery to the boot Now my question is aboit the live connections and where I can "make" them. Sorry about the poor diagrams All diagrams have been labeled OEM is straight forward And the srd is how I understand how it connects to everything I haven't bought the SRD kit I have decided to do this my self and hope the middle diagram will be OK Just incase my diagrams don't make sense this is what I am hoping to do Live from engine block to fuse box live (where the original cable went from battery to fuse box) Then from fuse box live to battery + And amp + to fuse box + So if that doesn't make sense based on OEM setup everything connects at the battery + terminal I want to connect everything at the terminal on the fuse box where the OEM battery cable use to connect (saves a lot of wire) Wire I will be using is 4/0 guage or 16mm Now I spoke to my bro who is an electrical engineer for EON And he seems to think that this might cause issues. He says that at the OEM setup could be drawing different amount of current down each individual cable, and the way I want it, it will need to draw twice the amount of current to power both cables. I disagree with him, for me it would need to output the same amount of current difference being is that the engine could pull as much as it wants and that the fuse box could easily blow the main fuse if there was too much current going through it I hope I make some sort of sense Thanks Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldy Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 as long as you use a good quality multi strand cable it will be fine. fuse as near to the battery as possible. also see here http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?324192-Battery-Relocation-Kit&highlight=battery+relocation Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete.osborne69 Posted August 27, 2015 Author Share Posted August 27, 2015 OK saves measuring the amp cable to find out how much battery cable I need, and is there any reason why the fuse box needs to be as close as possible to the battery, thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 If you use smaller than 0 gauge you're asking for trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete.osborne69 Posted August 27, 2015 Author Share Posted August 27, 2015 OK thanks for that I was under the impression that 4/0 was thicker in total diameter had more strands etc (according to a conversion site) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldy Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 (edited) and is there any reason why the fuse box needs to be as close as possible to the battery, thanks again not the fuse box! the main power feed needs a fuse as near to the battery as possible. you dont want a thick cable shorting out! i use the 70mm cable in the link i posted with no isuses, I've used that on several cars now with cable runs the length of the car Edited August 27, 2015 by baldy (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete.osborne69 Posted August 27, 2015 Author Share Posted August 27, 2015 Ah, I wasent aware I needed one the battery will be located directly behind the back seats on the passengers side, so placing the fuse in the hole between the back seat and boot should be fine. And what type of fuse will I need? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete.osborne69 Posted August 27, 2015 Author Share Posted August 27, 2015 (edited) OK well according to this conversion site 4/0 gauge is 120mm thick, is this overkill and should stick to your recommendation of 70mm (cheaper) http://www.lexproducts.com/technical-help/wire-conversion/ Edited August 27, 2015 by pete.osborne69 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldy Posted August 27, 2015 Share Posted August 27, 2015 70mm is perfect. something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stinger-SHD201-ANL-Fuse-Holder-Car-Stereo-Audio-/321821045985?hash=item4aee0774e1 with a 100-120 amp fuse will be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete.osborne69 Posted August 28, 2015 Author Share Posted August 28, 2015 Thanks I've just ordered the cable and fuse holder and a 100A fuse for the crimp connectors to fit on the fuse box is it a 8 or 10mm fitting I know in the link above you mentioned 8mm but I'm under the impression its a bigger hole as I needed a 10 or a 12mm socket to remove the bolt can't remember which Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 I needed a 10 or a 12mm socket to remove the bolt can't remember which 13mm nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete.osborne69 Posted August 28, 2015 Author Share Posted August 28, 2015 Yeah lol as I've been stripping the car down I had tools everywhere so it was a guess lol but does that mean I will need a crimp connector with a 13mm hole to fit the thread? Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 That means that you need a 13mm spanner for the 13mm nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete.osborne69 Posted August 28, 2015 Author Share Posted August 28, 2015 Thanks I understand that but won't the bolt be smaller in diameter and the nut on my fuse box is 12mm so the crimp connector needs a hole of 12mm? Thanks again for the help its appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 No, a 12mm headed bolt, is typically either an m6 or m8 - meaning it will be a 6 or 8mm hole Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete.osborne69 Posted August 28, 2015 Author Share Posted August 28, 2015 Ah thanks this helps I'll order the 8mm ones then as they have been posted in another thread All of the help from everyone is appreciated thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berg Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 I just use a distribution block, stock live from starter goes to the distribution block, new 0awg cable from distribution block to battery (ANL 120amp fuse beside battery) Also used the distribution block to run an 8awg power cable directly to the fuse box which is in glove box Id recommend using the proper heavy duty "copper tube" type crimp connectors and terminals for the cables and for all connections, you will need a hydraulic crimper but these can be had for around £25 Perfect solid connection which will last Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete.osborne69 Posted August 28, 2015 Author Share Posted August 28, 2015 My fuse box is inside glove box as well however what I was going to do is connect the live that comes from under the engine to the fuse box And another cable from the fuse box to the battery 100A anl fuse near battery I assume this would work perfectly both cables would attach to the bottom of fuse box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berg Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 My fuse box is inside glove box as well however what I was going to do is connect the live that comes from under the engine to the fuse box And another cable from the fuse box to the battery 100A anl fuse near battery I assume this would work perfectly both cables would attach to the bottom of fuse box Personally i would just use a distribution block to run all the feeds from rather than having it all connected to the fuse box I have no idea if its a good or bad thing to have it all off the fuse box, just my preference thats all You would need to check and make sure the ring terminal for your main battery cable actually fits the fuse box, the bolt/nut is in a recess and the ring terminal on my fuse box power cable was a very tight fit and that is only 8awg cable, you may need to find some terminals that have the right size hole, but are less chunkier, you may get away with using the square type instead of a ring. I know for a fact the terminal on my main feed would never fit the fuse box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete.osborne69 Posted August 28, 2015 Author Share Posted August 28, 2015 I'll stick to the distribution block like you have used as its tried and tested and is the stock like connector from the starter the cable that was attached to underneath the car on the manifold side of the engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a98pmalcolm Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 I have just done my battery relocation to the boot with 0 gauge cable. Car runs fine but I have serious problems regarding starting the car. My problem is it comes across like a slightly flat battery when I turn the car over and I need to give a little throttle to get it started. HOWEVER when I put a battery starter pack on the terminals the car starts every time without fail. So It has to be the earth I used on the battery. I can't undo the big bolt under were the spare wheel was. I really hope that what it is. As using the power pack it was perfect.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berg Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 I have just done my battery relocation to the boot with 0 gauge cable. Car runs fine but I have serious problems regarding starting the car. My problem is it comes across like a slightly flat battery when I turn the car over and I need to give a little throttle to get it started. HOWEVER when I put a battery starter pack on the terminals the car starts every time without fail. So It has to be the earth I used on the battery. I can't undo the big bolt under were the spare wheel was. I really hope that what it is. As using the power pack it was perfect.. Does sound like an earth or maybe the battery itself isnt up to scratch if its fine with a booster pack Where abouts is yours earthed? My battery is just behind the rear seats where the stock sub used to be so mine is earthed to one on the old sub mounting holes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a98pmalcolm Posted August 28, 2015 Share Posted August 28, 2015 Does sound like an earth or maybe the battery itself isnt up to scratch if its fine with a booster pack Where abouts is yours earthed? My battery is just behind the rear seats where the stock sub used to be so mine is earthed to one on the old sub mounting holes I tried an earth using the rear seats and now its on the 10mm earth at the back of the boot. Id like to earth it in that big bolt were the the spare wheel was were I have seen people have used before but I can't get it undone. I think its welded Its the Halfords HBC005 and Halfords exchanged it yesterday in case that was the issue. Thats quite a strong battery so it should be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete.osborne69 Posted August 28, 2015 Author Share Posted August 28, 2015 Where is this big bolt under the wheel as I can't seem to recall one, however I plan on mounting it to where the wheel holder bolt went just find a bolt that fits the hole and attach there, I was originally going to mount it on the back where you have but I'm using that for other earths for the fog light conversion I suppose it could be connected to the black plate that runs from the suspension towards the middle of the bar that runs to either side of the car Not very technical in terms as I can't think of what they're called Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pete.osborne69 Posted September 6, 2015 Author Share Posted September 6, 2015 Personally i would just use a distribution block to run all the feeds from rather than having it all connected to the fuse box I have no idea if its a good or bad thing to have it all off the fuse box, just my preference thats all You would need to check and make sure the ring terminal for your main battery cable actually fits the fuse box, the bolt/nut is in a recess and the ring terminal on my fuse box power cable was a very tight fit and that is only 8awg cable, you may need to find some terminals that have the right size hole, but are less chunkier, you may get away with using the square type instead of a ring. I know for a fact the terminal on my main feed would never fit the fuse box I have looked for a distribution block for the size cable I have but can't seem to find any I was recommended to get 70mm2 battery cable so that's what I went with which is 2/0 in awg Now I can find one that has a 2/0 input but not on the output so would I need to use smaller cable coming from the distribution block to the starter and fusebox Also what's the benefit of having a distribution box, is it that it has a separate fuse for each output or is it just a matter of an easier install Thanks in advance Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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