Hemanhead Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Thats quite a weak battery isn't it? I use an Optima red top with my battery also located in the boot - 815 A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adnanshah247 Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Nothing stopping you using jump leads to feed the battery to the original connections, then you'll know for sure if that is the problem or not. yup, easy test. sounds to me as if you an earthing issue buddy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berg Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 I have the same battery also, well over a year old mine is, cars been sat nearly 2 weeks and started perfect Battery is in the boot like yours so i dont think your battery is too weak, unless you have alot more things running high power than i do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted September 2, 2015 Share Posted September 2, 2015 Thats quite a weak battery isn't it? I use an Optima red top with my battery also located in the boot - 815 A Doesn't matter if the battery is 50 feet away if the leads are good enough and don't suffer significant voltage drop. If a battery will start it under the bonnet, given good enough leads it will start it from in the back. A lot of Ebay wire is aluminium or steel wire, with a microns thick copper plating.. Copper is dear, the rogues get around it in clever ways If it's magnetic or silver underneath, if you scrape the copper, it's junk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a98pmalcolm Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 Updated 1st post. Thanks Chris, what I don't get is other people have used the kit I have and no issues. Only thing I'm no looking towards is changing the main power cable but I have a feeling that wont make a difference.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berg Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 After watching the video it seems to turn over very well, surely if it was a battery/power issue it would turn over slowly or not at all Im using virtually the same stuff including battery and no problems here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bullitt Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Is it only that wiring you have upgraded? Have you done TB3? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a98pmalcolm Posted February 11, 2016 Author Share Posted February 11, 2016 Is it only that wiring you have upgraded? Have you done TB3? Whats TB3 mate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bullitt Posted February 11, 2016 Share Posted February 11, 2016 Whats TB3 mate? TB3 or The Big Three Is designed to vastly improve the cars electrical system, allowing more current to flow easier to all components. This "upgrade" replaces the three key cables in the electrical system in your case with 0AWG as you have used this already. You want to do the battery ground to chassis wire, the chassis to engine block wire and the alternator plus to battery plus wire. This increases your electrical system's current flow capability, ensuring a more consistent voltage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a98pmalcolm Posted February 12, 2016 Author Share Posted February 12, 2016 (edited) ah ok.. Well i have done a double battery ground (added in 1st post) Does the chassis to eninge need to be a chunky cable? And can it be on the head as i have bolts were the engine hooks were? And what about altinator plus to battery plus? Can it go into the distributer block or does it need to run all the way to the back? Edited February 12, 2016 by a98pmalcolm (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 ah ok.. Well i have done a double battery ground (added in 1st post) Does the chassis to eninge nees to be a chinky cable? And can it be on the head? And what about altinator plus to battery plus? Have you been sniffing a cork? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a98pmalcolm Posted February 12, 2016 Author Share Posted February 12, 2016 haha edited... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 (edited) Excuse my delayed response, now that I have translated your technical questions into English to understand them, for your convenience, I have translated the answers back into your chosen tongue. 1. Yesh it du an berrer on blok an een berrerer on ed an box unall. 2. Berrer wi annuner, all the way darlin. Edited February 12, 2016 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bullitt Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 (edited) ah ok.. Well i have done a double battery ground (added in 1st post) 2 grounds for the battery? Why? You only need to do a battery ground to chassis. Is the 2nd one for something else? Does the chassis to eninge need to be a chunky cable? And can it be on the head as i have bolts were the engine hooks were? Yes, as you have done it it 0 AWG it's best to use that for the rest. You don't have to remove the OEM cables, I do it for a cleaner install. If you unbolt that, use it to make a copy using the 0AWG and refit the new cable that would do fine. This can be done to the alternator bracket which grounds through the engine. And what about altinator plus to battery plus? Can it go into the distributer block or does it need to run all the way to the back? If this goes all the way to the boot, will it replace your current 0AWG or just add to the way it is currently set out? Having not done this conversion myself and not being able to see it in person this last part confuses me slightly Could you post up a list of how is everything wired from start to end. Edited February 12, 2016 by Frank Bullitt insomnia, late, incoherent, spelling mistakes (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a98pmalcolm Posted February 12, 2016 Author Share Posted February 12, 2016 Here you are Frank I did 1 earths as I have heard 2 could be needed Sub amp lines could be 2AWG not sure.. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 Measure the voltage drop across any and all connectors. To do that on the positive side of the battery have the red lead of a volt meter set to say 10 or 20V range on the positive TERMINAL of the battery. the black wire of the meter on the none battery side of a connector. Start with the battery terminal itself, then progress extending the meter wires if needed to check ALL the connectors in the positive side. I would pay attention to the "distributor box". You need to test with someone cranking the engine. You should see no more than half to one volt on the meter, reduce the range if you need to. Do the same on the negative side, but with black wire of meter to battery negative TERMINAL and red wire probing none battery side of any connections including bolts to chassis ground. Quicker to do it than to explain Post some decent photos, especially this distributor box, I have a bad vibe about that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a98pmalcolm Posted February 12, 2016 Author Share Posted February 12, 2016 Measure the voltage drop across any and all connectors. To do that on the positive side of the battery have the red lead of a volt meter set to say 10 or 20V range on the positive TERMINAL of the battery. the black wire of the meter on the none battery side of a connector. Start with the battery terminal itself, then progress extending the meter wires if needed to check ALL the connectors in the positive side. I would pay attention to the "distributor box". You need to test with someone cranking the engine. You should see no more than half to one volt on the meter, reduce the range if you need to. Do the same on the negative side, but with black wire of meter to battery negative TERMINAL and red wire probing none battery side of any connections including bolts to chassis ground. Quicker to do it than to explain Post some decent photos, especially this distributor box, I have a bad vibe about that... Ok thanks Chris will try today to do this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 What cable did you use? Did you make sure that it was copper (OFC) and not aluminium coated copper (CCA)? FYI 0AWG OFC cable would cost you a mint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 BMW or Mercedes Models have the Battery located in the boot, breakers yard is a good source for their setup! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a98pmalcolm Posted February 12, 2016 Author Share Posted February 12, 2016 (edited) Thanks for the reply fellas. I used the same kit a others Scott so it should be ok. It just takes a little bit of throttle to get it started. As chris requested I just got all the voltage readings. All voltages were the same with ignition on or off. Battery reading 12V Battery reading on turn over 9v Reading using battery negative to junction box 12v Reading using battery negative to junction box on turn over 8v Reading from junction box + and engine bay ground 12v Reading from junction box + and engine bay ground on turn over 8v 14v when engine is one. so a 1 volt drop at the junction box As you can see on the pics I'm using the fuse box possessive as that is wired straight into the junction box underneath Edited February 12, 2016 by a98pmalcolm (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 Stick the multimeter to ohms and check that the idle control valve is set right.... I assume there is one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a98pmalcolm Posted February 12, 2016 Author Share Posted February 12, 2016 The idle control valve should be fine as it was all OK until I relocated the battery. Getting to the idle control valve could prove difficult lol. But if it was the idle control valve it would constantly be an issue its only on start up? If the car as been running, and I come back to in within an hour it just about catches and starts up... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 The idle control valve should be fine as it was all OK until I relocated the battery. Getting to the idle control valve could prove difficult lol. But if it was the idle control valve it would constantly be an issue its only on start up? If the car as been running, and I come back to in within an hour it just about catches and starts up... The resistance value may have changed due to the voltage drop from the battery, and thus requiring to be reset. Once a car is fired up it takes less effort to keep it doing so, the IACV could still cause starting issues though. Adjusting it to open the flap a little more would make the difference IMO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a98pmalcolm Posted February 12, 2016 Author Share Posted February 12, 2016 The resistance value may have changed due to the voltage drop from the battery, and thus requiring to be reset. Once a car is fired up it takes less effort to keep it doing so, the IACV could still cause starting issues though. Adjusting it to open the flap a little more would make the difference IMO. Ah ok thanks Scott how would they be adjusted? Via syvecs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Bullitt Posted February 12, 2016 Share Posted February 12, 2016 (edited) Here you are Frank I did 1 earths as I have heard 2 could be needed Sub amp lines could be 2AWG not sure.. Thanks http://i.imgur.com/o1oWYNR.jpg Get shot of the 2nd 4 AWG earth, if you want to keep make it 0 AWG the same as the other battery earth. When you say starter motor do you mean alternator? This OEM cable needs to be changed to a 0 AWG, I would do this first. Assuming that is a fuse on the 4 AWG power feed to the amp, it needs to be closer to the battery not to the amp. Edited February 12, 2016 by Frank Bullitt (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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