Bizzyfingers Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 Just bought a soarer for my 1jz swap, it was bought as salvage, has spark, has fuel but does not run. Any ideas? We have tried using easy start but not pop, bang or splutter, there is fuel coming out but not loads when cranking... any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
safcdixon Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 Immobiliser? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 Are you SURE it has a proper spark? Fit new plugs and try very briefly again with easy start direct into the open throttle butterfly. If nothing it either has no compression or the cam / ignition timing is wildly out, although I'd still expect the odd pop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 You could also have flooded the plugs so as Chris says new plugs and try it briefly again. Immobiliser you would either have no crank, no spark or no fuel. Or a combination of the above Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizzyfingers Posted August 17, 2015 Author Share Posted August 17, 2015 The spark was strong but I only checked one plug tbh. The fuel was only trickling out and couldn't really hear the pump. Should it squirt like a mofo while cranking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 Quite how a MOFO squirts I am not sure, nice analogy..... Squirt from where, for God's sake? Please try and keep you analogies half decent! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizzyfingers Posted August 17, 2015 Author Share Posted August 17, 2015 Sorry if my analogie offended you in any way. It was the feed pipe going to the injector rail (I think it was anyway, was my buddy at that end and me cranking). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 (edited) The feed to the rail should deliver fuel like a geyser, and fill a pint bottle in seconds. The return from the pressure regulator, after the rail should be similarly robust, but with a little less flow due to the pressure drop. Sounds like a pump or filter issue. The correct way to test is after the regulator, there will be a litres per minute at X PSI figure for the pump somewhere, but from what you say it sounds like it's nothing like enough flow. You can make your buddy redundant by linking the right terminals in the diagnostic socket so the fuel pump runs continuously without cranking. B+ and Fp terminals bridged with a paper clip. Don't use a plastic one like someone who shall remain nameless did, to protect their progeny from ridicule. Edited August 17, 2015 by Chris Wilson (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizzyfingers Posted August 17, 2015 Author Share Posted August 17, 2015 Haha a plastic jumper? Now that IS funny. I thought it should come out at a good psi. When we used the jumper technique (seen elsewhere) I checked the pump on the tank in the boot and there was no whirr, no vibration or sound. My buddy said they can be quiet but not this quiet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 Check the timing isn't miles out so its looking to bang in all the wrong places. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 It could really only be the cam timing unless the crank trigger wheel has come loose. A timing light should show an ignition timing issue, with leads on the front coil to the plugs. (So you have number one lead to clamp off...). Some garages haven't even heard of a timing light these days Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 The cam belt could have failed. Best hope beyond hope that's not the case though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris88 Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 If you can't hear the pump in the boot when the jumper is in and the ignition is switched to run then the pump isn't working (it might be turning just enough to put a trickle at the fuel rail). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 The cam belt could have failed. Best hope beyond hope that's not the case though. Unless it has wild cams in it the valves won't clash. They are none interference engines, even the 1J, as far as I know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizzyfingers Posted August 17, 2015 Author Share Posted August 17, 2015 Sounds to me like a failed pump! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DT125 Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 Sounds to me like a failed pump! if it was fuel pump it would have gone to start with easy start . sounds like immobilizer . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 if it was fuel pump it would have gone to start with easy start . sounds like immobilizer . If it was the immobiliser there would be either no fuel or no spark...... or both.... as that's what an immobiliser imobilses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizzyfingers Posted August 17, 2015 Author Share Posted August 17, 2015 It did have an immobiliser, ripped it out, before hand it would cut everything, fuel, electrics, spark... Nothing would work as soon as you turned the key. After ripping out everything fired unto life just no running Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
safcdixon Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 It did have an immobiliser, ripped it out, before hand it would cut everything, fuel, electrics, spark... Nothing would work as soon as you turned the key. After ripping out everything fired unto life just no running Check all the connections you broke to take the immobilser out (id guess youve already done this like mate but worth checking again just incase) How strong is the spark? Could it be a faulty ignitor pack? Crank position sensor on the 2j can be quite sensitive id guess its the same on the 1jz, throttle position one is the same Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herbiemercman Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 Hi Chris, I was fascinated re your comment about the engine in question being a "non interference" type, does the same thing apply to the NA, 2jz-ge engines.? I ask this as many owners are always concerned about their timing belt failing and costing them a new engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 The N/A on stock or mild cams is also none interference, as far as I remember. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 Hi Chris, I was fascinated re your comment about the engine in question being a "non interference" type, does the same thing apply to the NA, 2jz-ge engines.? I ask this as many owners are always concerned about their timing belt failing and costing them a new engine. In stock form the 1JZ and 2JZ (including NA) are non interference. Does not mean you can pay less attention to the state of the belts. But it does mean if the engine is stock (not got hight lift cams in it) then you don't have to worry about an engine full of metal should the belt go. edit ** Chris beat me to it ** Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DT125 Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 It did have an immobiliser, ripped it out, before hand it would cut everything, fuel, electrics, spark... Nothing would work as soon as you turned the key. After ripping out everything fired unto life just no running are you sure they conected all the wires . like the other guy said maybe the cam or crank shaft senor isn't working . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizzyfingers Posted August 18, 2015 Author Share Posted August 18, 2015 Yeah that could be a possibility, it's been sitting in a breakers yard for a considerable amount of time so anything is possible. We checked over the engine but may have missed something. I won't dismiss any ideas you guys have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 First off, set the engine to TDC and check the timing is good. Does the compression sound good when you're turning it over? You may have fuel and spark but do you have enough of each? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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