Shaleskin Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 OK so this has become apparent now I'm using it more. When I start the car up in the morning it'll idle at 1200 rpm beautifully. After about 30 seconds it'll start to idle a little lumpy (on 264 camshafts) at around 700rpm. When I go to accelerate, you put your foot down and the car just doesn't move, it's as if it's hesitating until 2k rpm then shoots off like a rocket (regardless on how far your foot is down), I've had this issue in my Mr2 i had with an AFM which was basically it running lean when cold and fine when warm (Common issue with them). When it's warm this issue doesn't seem as bad. Instead, it feels like it choosing the wrong gear. Also, when the car's turned off when warm, you have to play with the throttle to get it started as it struggles a good'n. Now, when I pull the Fuse out (EFI) for 30 seconds, put it back in, Start the car it'll idle at 1500rpm cold. Goto accelerate and it'll shoot off with just a little touch of the pedal, it'll idle around 1000rpm which isn't too lumpy and is nice even when it's warm it just feels like it's nippy, quick or at least correct gear to be in and drives as I expect it to. After 80-100miles it reverts back to what it was before as above (hard warm starting is always happening regardless). I have 650cc injectors, and eManage Blue piggy back. I think this may play a part in the hard starting but what would cause it to run sluggishly after the 80-100mile run? I've adjusted the TPS with a multimeter and I'm 95% certain it's all good. I'm stumped with what else to try or sensor to test? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTR Fever Posted August 4, 2015 Share Posted August 4, 2015 hmmm..did you clean the IACV recently? I had a similar issue with stock ECU and did a few things all at once which sorted that issue. Changed coil pack jacks, plugs and cleaned IACV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaleskin Posted August 5, 2015 Author Share Posted August 5, 2015 hmmm..did you clean the IACV recently? I had a similar issue with stock ECU and did a few things all at once which sorted that issue. Changed coil pack jacks, plugs and cleaned IACV. I did clean it when I bought it back in March. Spark plugs have been changed to BKR7e's and oil has been changed, coolant flushed and changed too. Not touched coil packs but what would be the best way to test them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTR Fever Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 Are the coil pack connectors in good order? They give a hesitation at times.. Regarding testing the coil packs, I read somewhere about checking the resistance across the connectors using an electrical tester but I'm not too sure. If I see it pop up again I'll let you know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 Is there some reason it needs the bigger injectors and a signal fudger? I assume it's on stock turbos? Or is it on some other turbos? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaleskin Posted August 5, 2015 Author Share Posted August 5, 2015 There wasn't but someone put these things on including camshafts and HKS forged pistons back in 2004 running 1.3bar on standard turbos... not sure how many sets of turbo's this car's been through but have now nearly got all I need for the old T04R turbo (remaining is now downpipe). Standard Turbo's (well one as the 2nd one is shot) but after covering 83klm's it's gone back to idling lumpy around 600/500rpm when warm and wanting to pull away in 2nd or sometimes feels like 3rd as the revs will climb and stop at 2k until the speed has caught up. When cold it'll idle at 1200/1100rpm but when you go to accelerate it just holds back, even if your foot is down just before the kickdown switch until it hits 2k then shoots off as you'd expect it to with your foot down. I'm really puzzled as when you reset the ecu by taking out the EFI fuse it drives really well until 80 or so Klm's is covered? If it only happened when it was warm I'm sure I could point towards a few sensors not being right... Stumped:rolleyes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 5, 2015 Share Posted August 5, 2015 Sounds like an auto box issue, or auto box control issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaleskin Posted August 6, 2015 Author Share Posted August 6, 2015 Sounds like an auto box issue, or auto box control issue. Do the auto boxes have any diagnostics I can do at home? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 Yes, the way to pull the codes is in the workshop manual, or maybe on line somewhere, I am away from the workshop today. I would also measure the resistance of the ECU water temp sensor, hot and cold and compare it with the figures from Mr. Blyth in the Technical Section. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaleskin Posted August 6, 2015 Author Share Posted August 6, 2015 Yes, the way to pull the codes is in the workshop manual, or maybe on line somewhere, I am away from the workshop today. I would also measure the resistance of the ECU water temp sensor, hot and cold and compare it with the figures from Mr. Blyth in the Technical Section. Thanks for that. Will check when I get some time tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTR Fever Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 hmm..what ECU is the piggy back linked with? Meaning are you on a Supra ECU or Aristo ECU? I can show you my dyno curve comparing both ECU's and it's horrible! (dyno'd in 2nd gear tho ) The Aristo ECU made the car feel like a stutter at certain rpm's and would just shoot off after even if flooring it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTR Fever Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 he spelt my name wrong (doesn't matter, I know...) But you can clearly tell which ECU is which...the Ariso ECU had so many flat spots/ stutters! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 There wasn't but someone put these things on including camshafts and HKS forged pistons back in 2004 running 1.3bar on standard turbos... not sure how many sets of turbo's this car's been through but have now nearly got all I need for the old T04R turbo (remaining is now downpipe). Standard Turbo's (well one as the 2nd one is shot) but after covering 83klm's it's gone back to idling lumpy around 600/500rpm when warm and wanting to pull away in 2nd or sometimes feels like 3rd as the revs will climb and stop at 2k until the speed has caught up. When cold it'll idle at 1200/1100rpm but when you go to accelerate it just holds back, even if your foot is down just before the kickdown switch until it hits 2k then shoots off as you'd expect it to with your foot down. I'm really puzzled as when you reset the ecu by taking out the EFI fuse it drives really well until 80 or so Klm's is covered? If it only happened when it was warm I'm sure I could point towards a few sensors not being right... Stumped:rolleyes: The fact that one turbo is not working as it should wont help, I would also test the O2 sensor, as well as the ECU water temp sensor, but in theory the ECU reset which will just clear the short term fuel and timing trim shouldn't clear O2 or ECU water temp sensor faults, so I think its down the the piggyback trying to mess with the low load side of things, IE closed loop which is causing the problem, personally I would just remove the EM Blue, and if you really do need a piggyback fit an EMU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaleskin Posted August 6, 2015 Author Share Posted August 6, 2015 Thanks for the replies. It's on a Supra ECU so shouldn't be that. I take it sensors would be as simple as check the resistance or voltage? Water temp when it's hot, then again when it's cooled while o2 I believe you can get a live reading from the diag port in the engine bay? One thing I have noticed, and as have others being near my car is that it runs pig rich when cold and warm at idle. Been trying to access the emanager to see whats been done to it but need to order a cable that works oppose to the DIY's you can do that haven't. If I just unplug the Emanager should the car still run, albeit a little crap as it's got bigger injectors? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted August 6, 2015 Share Posted August 6, 2015 I would save the current emanage maps, and zero the lot and reset the global injector size to the current injectors and see how it runs, don't just unplug it. Although by what you describe it sounds a bit like the injector size is not set correctly. But it may simply be down the ECU coolant temp sensor (two wires), or O2 sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaleskin Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share Posted August 9, 2015 I've used a digital multi meter on the Ox1 in diag port when the car's warmed up and it was fluctuating between 0.2 up to 0.9 but was very erratic and updated fairly quickly. Not checked the ECU coolant sensor yet as I didn't have any info to compare it to. Also ordered a cable to access my piggy back earlier today so I can get into it and save the map, reset it to default and make sure the injector size is correct later on this week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaleskin Posted August 11, 2015 Author Share Posted August 11, 2015 Okay, so my cable's arrived and I managed to connect to the piggy back and imported the settings/map from it into the greddy software. I want to double check with others with whether this has actually been played with at all? I did have a look at the drop down list of sensors at the top left below memo as it was originally on 'Disconnect', it is now back on that as it was beforehand. Didn't find a fueling map on the program though, probably didn't look hard enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted August 11, 2015 Share Posted August 11, 2015 I would have to dig out my blue software to be sure, but it looks like the injector setting is OK and the AFM voltage seems to correlate, but you need to access the maps to tell anything more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaleskin Posted August 11, 2015 Author Share Posted August 11, 2015 I would have to dig out my blue software to be sure, but it looks like the injector setting is OK and the AFM voltage seems to correlate, but you need to access the maps to tell anything more. Okay, thanks for your feedback. I'll have another look tomorrow. Are jap injectors 440 or 430? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaleskin Posted August 12, 2015 Author Share Posted August 12, 2015 OK, After reading through the manual I've managed to bring up some additional bits: I'd like to be able to smooth the idle out which I'm hoping can be done within the piggy back? A video below is 264* cams at idle when warm. Also like to be able for it to start without struggling when warm as well. Is either of these possible within the piggy back? Video: http://sendvid.com/qjvb3unr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 Idle will be controlled by the std ECU, the piggyback wont or shouldn't have any effect, and looking at the fuel adjustment table its not affecting the idle area, the fuel map doesn't look at all right, especially with the injector change already adjusted for, personally I would re fit the std injectors (440cc by the way) and remove the piggyback as its not doing any good the way its set up, the cams are not going to make a vast difference, and if you do want to run a piggyback I would advise fitting the Emanage Ultimate rather than the blue, and get someone who knows there stuff to fit and map. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaleskin Posted August 12, 2015 Author Share Posted August 12, 2015 Idle will be controlled by the std ECU, the piggyback wont or shouldn't have any effect, and looking at the fuel adjustment table its not affecting the idle area, the fuel map doesn't look at all right, especially with the injector change already adjusted for, personally I would re fit the std injectors (440cc by the way) and remove the piggyback as its not doing any good the way its set up, the cams are not going to make a vast difference, and if you do want to run a piggyback I would advise fitting the Emanage Ultimate rather than the blue, and get someone who knows there stuff to fit and map. I appreciate your feedback. I'd like to keep the injectors I have as my single will be fitted within the month and I was hoping I could use what I have to run it and hopefully find someone to map it to suit, but if worse case scenario I can't get it to work I'll look about for the ultimate. Just to pick your brains, in what way doesn't it look right or where about on it looks out of place? With the idle being so lumpy, is that likely to be a sensor you reckon? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 The map just doesn't look right, its too uniform in its adjustments, looks like somebody has just guessed it, when did the idle start to be unstable? I would go through the idle setup again, although if the injector scaling is set up incorrectly or there is a fault its never going to idle correctly. I cant remember if there is a set up for injector lag times with the blue? it could be down to that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shaleskin Posted August 12, 2015 Author Share Posted August 12, 2015 Idle has been like this since I purchased it. When it's cold it'll idle smooth as anything for around 30 seconds and then start to hunt. Sometimes I've noticed if I've been driving for a little while (40/50minutes) without cutting the engine it'll idle spot on 800rpm just randomly until i turn off the engine. Then back to hunting. Good question, I'd have thought so as it's main purpose is to control the injectors :\ I'll have a read up on that. If so, do you know what they should be? Idle setup; How do you do that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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