Milo500 Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 Hi, [/GRIN] I have a single turbo converted (originally TT) Auto JZA80 around 450 at the crank. It previously had the front splitter/spoiler, but was removed for the fitment of the intercooler. The light comes on when under hard acceleration, usually when it shifts to third, and stays on. The car runs perfectly and shows no signs of any problems, however not knowing what the light is really wind me up! [ANGRY][/ANGRY] The link below shows a video of it under acceleration, http://tinypic.com/r/30vchzr/8 Cheers, any help will be very appreciated [GRIN] /vbb/images/smilies/bbcode_grin.gif /vbb/images/smilies/bbcode_grin.gif Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie_b Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 Do the paperclip test to read the error codes. Best guess at the moment is low brake fluid level in the reservoir, or dodgy speed converter, but these are just guesses until we know what the error codes are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 Sounds like above, 3 simple tests. Brim the brake fluid, try again. If not, do you still have the active spoiler ECU connected? if so, disconnect it, it will show warning light if it detects no spoiler. 3rd, Read the codes and see whats what. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milo500 Posted September 12, 2015 Author Share Posted September 12, 2015 I did the paper clip test, and nothing came up... It seems to be worse now, under normal driving there is no problem, but when under full power it slams the light on straight away, and it dies down in power completely ever 2ish seconds until you drop out of the power. Between the cut out's it's still running full power. I've tried all possilbe combinations with the trac control, overdrive and manu mode, but nothing makes a difference. Someone mentioned it could be a case of getting a fuel cut defencer? Cheers, Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 If you're booting the car, and you feel like you hit a brick wall for a few seconds, it sounds like Fuel Cut, a FCD would fix that, what boost you running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milo500 Posted September 12, 2015 Author Share Posted September 12, 2015 That's exactly how it feels...around 1.5kg/cm2, so about 20-22psi, i don't have a aftermarket boost controller, but have that fairly rough estimate from the boost gauge. Would i need to to uprate the fuel pump aswell? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 Well, with it been single turbo i'd hope you had more than a stock ECU running it? Surely the FCD would have been fitted. if not, get it checked asap, its not going to last long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milo500 Posted September 12, 2015 Author Share Posted September 12, 2015 Looks like the stock ECU to me, and i can't see any FCD. It was converted way before i bought it, and to be honest looks like on a budget Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 Looks like the stock ECU to me, and i can't see any FCD. It was converted way before i bought it, and to be honest looks like on a budget Id say it was 100% fuel cut then. However you dont want to be running a single on a stock ecu and injectors at 1.5 bar, melted engine in no time imo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 If its single turbo, stock ECU, stock injectors and fuel pressure I am not surprised its holding back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milo500 Posted September 12, 2015 Author Share Posted September 12, 2015 Ahh, thanks for all the feedback guys what would you say the max is that i should run on stock injectors and ecu on a single turbo? As im getting it dyno tuned once the fuel cut and new walbro is on next week... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted September 12, 2015 Share Posted September 12, 2015 Dyno tuned, do you have a fuel controller then, piggyback or something? What turbo is it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milo500 Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 Hi, No i just went and checked...turns out the person who did this conversion i think was a bit of a doughnut. The whole fuel system is completely stock. Will be ordering fcd, fuel controller and 450l/h denso fuel pump this weekend...it's got an ar/70 t4 bottom of the range garrett at the moment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 It will be your injectors which is the limiting factor there i think, but still, better to get a proper controller on it and mapped safely anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie_b Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 I did the paper clip test, and nothing came up... That's strange. Apat from the handbrake being on and possibly a door being open (?), I don't think the red triangle light would come on under normal driving if there weren't any error codes being logged. It sounds like you've got more pressing issues than the warning light (i.e. get the fueling/ECU sorted out), but it also sounds like your other warning light isn't working too. When the red triangle comes on, do you also get the orange engine symbol light (the EML) come on too? I would definitely expect this to come on, and if it doesn't, it's probably caused by a dry solder on its circuit board: common problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milo500 Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 Im not running any more than 400-450, so should bigger injectors be needed than stock? Am i wrong in thinking there is a stock fuel pressure reg on the fuel rail that needs to be replaced by an aftermarket one? Or shall the fuel controller just go on the fuel line prior to the rail? And yea, thats all i want at the moment is it to be safe to drive without wrecking a low mile 2j. The light only comes on under full acceleration, when driving normal, it runs perfectly with no lights...and the eml never comes on, but operates as it shows up for a second when the car is started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 Stock fuel reg is fine unless you want to change the fuel pressure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milo500 Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 (edited) Ahh, where can you find one that will go in place of the old one that will fit in the small gap where the factory one is? and i know it's a stupid question haha, but is a fuel pressure reg and fuel controller the same thing? Edited September 13, 2015 by Milo500 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milo500 Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 Ahh, where can you find one that will go in place of the old one that will fit in the small gap where the factory one is? and i know it's a stupid question haha, but is a fuel pressure reg and fuel controller the same thing? They normally come as part of a fitment kit. Not a stupid question, no they are not. Fuel regulator is a mechanical device that regulates the fuel rail pressure. A fuel controller, computer, ECU controls the injectors to give the desired amount of fuel at a given time based on other conditions, ie rpm, load and sensor inputs etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 Why are you changing the fuel reg, I would put this low on the list with your current setup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milo500 Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 Ahh this was when i thought they might have been the same thing:p . right back to the original issue with the fuel cut at full power, would the reg need to be changed, or just have an adjustable fuel controller? also where would the fuel controller be installed on the car? does it matter, or just a case of accessibility to adjust it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 The fuel cut is there to protect the engine and prob the only reason your engine is not in bits already. The fuel cut has nothing to do with the fuel regulator, fuel cut is an electronic safety strategy in the ECU, when you have the supporting mods that are correctly installed and configured you can raise this limit, even most 1000hp cars running standalone setups still have a fuel cut limit, its just it will be set higher as the car has been setup correctly You need a fuel controller so that you can setup the correct air fuel ratio, I am guessing you will be looking at some form of piggyback unless you want to go full standalone ECU, the latter would be my choice although plenty of members have had long running success with piggybacks, I would suggest speaking to an approved trader on here and see what they recommend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milo500 Posted September 13, 2015 Author Share Posted September 13, 2015 Ahh ok, Should i get a Fuel cut defender aswell? or just the fuel controller? and i think my confusion stemmed from that when i typed fuel controller into the internet, things like this came up (which im guessing is incorrect): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuel-Pressure-Controller-Adjustable-Toyota-Supra-2JZ-2JZGTE-MK4-GTE-Turbo-0-7Bar-/351469072935?hash=item51d5307227 Im almost 100% certain my friends single turbo (90mm) doesn't have anything but an uprated walbro fuel pump, and stock ecu etc etc...but his runs fine confused. How would i get in contact with the trader/s that you have recommended? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted September 13, 2015 Share Posted September 13, 2015 That is a fuel regulator. Depending what fuel controller you go for it may incorporate an FCD. Running, running fine and setup correctly are all very different I am guessing you would need to be a paid up member, if you own a MKIV it would be the best money spent, think its about £10. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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