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Odd misfire issue


T2 MSW

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Odd issue that I can't get my head round. I have a misfire on Cyl 3 that started intermittent and now is perminent.

 

Im getting fuel as you can hear the unburnt fuel in the exhaust and the plug is clean.

Plugs are brand new (Almost) NGK racing plugs and all look in good shape

Swap coilpacks to different cyl and the problem stays on 3

Swap plugs round and prob stays on 3

Using the output testing on the syvecs I have tested all cyl and I get a spark at each one.

Checked the coil pack connector and adjusted the connector gaps - they are fine

 

So its almost like when the car is running the ECU is not firing 3?? But if it did shut down a cyl (not sure that it does) i would expect an error or warning.

Edited by T2 MSW (see edit history)
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Answered my own question ref the ECU shutting down a cylinder. It can't as it does not have any misfire detection/strategy. And if it did it would shut down both spark and fuel.

 

Looks like my issue is with a sticking injector. Changed it with No.2 and the issue followed it.

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Scrub the below, I see you think it's an injector issue now, just left the reply for reference.

 

 

Is number three plug sparking at cranking? You need to ascertain if the Syvecs is driving the coil to ground, and if not, whether it's a wiring / connector issue, or an internal ECU fault. Ask Syvecs if the ecu can be re mapped to use another output to drive coil 3 to test the ecu driver itself.

 

I am assuming an electrical issue here, you have done a leak down test on the offending cylinder of course? Burnt valve comes to mind.....

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Cheers for the reply Chris. Move injector and the issues follows it.

 

The Syvecs has an output testing mode so you can send a pulse request to each injector and coil to test the outputs are working. They all check out on my car. If needed there would be no reason you could not change the output if one did fail for example as all the inputs/outputs you can program.

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My only advice is to ONLY buy OE injectors, not the re drilled junk that seems to give so much trouble. And to buy ones no bigger than the engine power output realistically needs. People seem to always think bigger is better, whereas a huge injector is much harder to precisely control for low flow requirements at idle and cruise, where a road car engine spends the majority of its time.

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My only advice is to ONLY buy OE injectors, not the re drilled junk that seems to give so much trouble. And to buy ones no bigger than the engine power output realistically needs. People seem to always think bigger is better, whereas a huge injector is much harder to precisely control for low flow requirements at idle and cruise, where a road car engine spends the majority of its time.

 

Yeah completely agree Chris. My car has ASNU 1100CC injectors in which I know are big but I run Ethanol in the car and it requires that size as the 1000's would not flow enough fuel when running the ethanol.

 

Im going to get them cleaned and flow tested just working out the logistics.

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cleaning and testing money would be better spent buying a complete new set , having them cleaned and test is around £150 and they could come back as being still bad

 

Why? ASNU are testing them and its £15 per injector. They will replace anything thats required and then just add the parts to the bill. A new set would be over £700 and prob have to get the car remapped. Have not got the time or the money TBH.

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Why? ASNU are testing them and its £15 per injector. They will replace anything thats required and then just add the parts to the bill. A new set would be over £700 and prob have to get the car remapped. Have not got the time or the money TBH.

 

How old are the injectors Mike?

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Are all the fuel ines PTFE lined? Ethanol will damage the liners of "rubber" lined braided hose, *BUT* the fuel filter should catch any debris so long as there's no rubber lined hose between it and the rail. Take *NO CHANCES* with injectors, a weak cylinder, not seen by the ECU can wreak havoc.

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Yes everything thats on it is PTFE and ethanol compatible. Its either left over from the fuel rail being drilled (off the car and cleaned) or from a failed fuel pump. Fuel filter will be coming out tonight to check it over and then replaced.

 

Thank you for that very scary picture, Having done a compression and leak down test I'm fairly confident mine does not resemble that :scared:

Edited by T2 MSW (see edit history)
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Are all the fuel ines PTFE lined? Ethanol will damage the liners of "rubber" lined braided hose, *BUT* the fuel filter should catch any debris so long as there's no rubber lined hose between it and the rail. Take *NO CHANCES* with injectors, a weak cylinder, not seen by the ECU can wreak havoc.

 

 

 

Shouldn't pics that grotesque be banned from the forum? :D seriously though - oh my god. that's terrible :|

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That's not too bad, could be caused by excess combustion temps (too retarded, too weak), or just a bad exhaust valve to seat sealing that starts blowing. Turbos are rather cruel! If the mixture is weak(excess O2 to fuel ratio) it acts as a cutting torch. If you retard an engine enough, or have bizarre cam timings set, you can make a manifold (and turbo in a boosted engine) glow red hot with no boost at 2000 RPM. If the manifold is red hot in such a case the exhaust valves will be a lot hotter still.

 

 

Fixing a burnt valve and seat is pretty trivial. But if the head gasket blows out, the blow torch effect will melt the alloy of the head and sometimes the cast iron block or liner periphery, which is a lot harder to fix.

 

 

It's knowing stuff like this that's important if you are mapping, as is discussed in another post about someone wanting to learn mapping as a career move.

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  • 2 months later...

Would you usually disconnect the whole loom when soldering on new plugs or just attempt to do it in situ over the engine? I have a bad misfire on my TT and it's driving me nuts, changed the igniter and coils but it's still there so this threads making me think it's either an injector issue or coil pack clip issue now.

 

All the clips look in good condition so I'm hoping it's not them :(

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Most likely to be coil pack clips or the coil packs themselves.

 

I disconnected all the clips, took them out of the engine recess, the front of the loom has enough slack to pull up. Then put a cover over the engine when I did mine. Ive messed about with the clips before and the ones from Lee with the pre molded wires are just so much easier. Just make sure you get them the correct way round.

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