MKIV-Supra Posted July 11, 2015 Share Posted July 11, 2015 Hey Guys, i changed the Front and Rear brakes, because the weren't good as i bought the car. When i bought it, the Pedal felt spongy. So i changed the brake fluid too. Then i saw, that the Brake master cylinder was leaking and the Seals were Bad so i bought another one. I changed it and bleeded the brakes again. If the engine is off, the Pedal is hard. When i Start the engine the brake is too spongy so that i have Air in the system. I think its in the ABS Block. I dont have TRC. How do i bleed the ABS Block now? I dont have the SST as it's shown in the manual. I can pull the relay out and Start the pump, but how can i open the valves to bleed it? Does someone know the wiring which pin i have to close? Please help me! Greetings and sry for my Bad english. Damien from Germany Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted July 11, 2015 Share Posted July 11, 2015 Have you just fitted new calipers or discs and pads? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MKIV-Supra Posted July 11, 2015 Author Share Posted July 11, 2015 Only discs and pads but the Pedal was spongy when i bought it thats why i wanted to change the fluid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted July 12, 2015 Share Posted July 12, 2015 Use a vacuum bleed kit, it's the only decent way to get a good pedal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 As already said get a vacuum bleeder, works a treat and you can bleed your brakes on your own Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 Unless someone has fitted the calipers on the wrong sides. I know someone who did that, and spend months chasing a spongy pedal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 Unless someone has fitted the calipers on the wrong sides. I know someone who did that, and spend months chasing a spongy pedal Easy enough to check that, the bleed nipple should be the highest point on the caliper, arrowed in green on my car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glanza_Mike Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 What vacuum bleeder do you guys recommend? I need one of these also. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 This is what I used but there are much cheaper alternatives http://www.primetools.co.uk/product/101997 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 Try bleeding it, with very slow pedal depressions and equally slow releases, when the nipple is closed, with the engine idling. I have vacuum and pressure bleeders, but can't recall when i last used either. I never seem to have an issue bleeding conventionally. No pumping of the pedal, slow and smooth, up and down. Tissues matron, quickly now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glanza_Mike Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 £130 DNK!!!! Do you also have a link or discount code for your money tree? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MKIV-Supra Posted July 13, 2015 Author Share Posted July 13, 2015 Calipers are right mounted. I bleeded the calipers with very slow pedal, then with vacuum 2 times and at least 3 times with pressure bleeding set at 0.7 bar. It's now a little better. I have now 10cm from the ground to the Pedal, when engine is running and Pedal is complete pressed. Toyota says min. 7cm. Can some one agree that it's now okay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 £130 DNK!!!! Do you also have a link or discount code for your money tree? This is a workshop model that's used for all sorts of fluid evacuations etc There are DIY home mechanic vacuum bleeders for under £40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie_b Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 I've got one of the small hand-held vacuum bleeders. You connect it up, then pump the handle to make a vacuum... except that I've never been able to make it work properly. It was only £15-20 so the old adage of you get what you pay for seems to hold true. I can't remember the details of my issues, something to do with not getting a decent airtight seal between the bleed nipple and the tube, and/or not being able to loosen/tighten the nipple whilst the tube was fitted. I enlisted the help of a glamorous assistant instead, and achieved a good bleed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 Toyota say a MINIMUM of 7 cm's? Or a MAXIMUM? Removing anti squeal shims or backing pads will help. Clamp (sypathetically) each rubber brake hose near the caliper, does clamping one in particular reduce pedal travel especially? Look closely at that caliper and pad arrangement. DO NOT clamp braided hoses!! The "special service tool) is just a link to bypass a relay's power contacts and run the ABS pump continuously. Just a bit of wire or a paper clip can be your "special tool" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MKIV-Supra Posted July 13, 2015 Author Share Posted July 13, 2015 (edited) I have braided hoses so i cant clamp it. How do you mean that, removing shims will help? Everyone says they have to be there. Should i remove then completely? I just know the Pedal from my old bmw's with braided hoses, the Pedal was very good. I had a good feeling from beginning an could only press the Pedal 5cm down till i Stand. Maybe someone can make a Video of his brake Pedal when the engine is running. I bridged the relay or the Abs pump Motor, but bridging Alone wont help i think, when the valves are closed? Edited July 13, 2015 by MKIV-Supra (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 I never fit the anti squeal shims unless there is a squeal problem. I find removing them gives a noticeably better pedal feel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MKIV-Supra Posted July 13, 2015 Author Share Posted July 13, 2015 So i should remove the squeal shims and test it then? They didnt look so good to me,too but i thought i should put thenm better in. The rattle spring over the pads should i better installed, am i wrong? On the back of the pads a layer off ceramic grease should stop squealing too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 Anti rattle spring won't affect pedal feel, so re fit those. Try it without the shims though. You can use a thin smear of copper or ceramic grease if you like, yes. The MKIV with ABS never has a great pedal feel to be honest. Hard to say whether yours is OK without pressing it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MKIV-Supra Posted July 13, 2015 Author Share Posted July 13, 2015 Okay i will test it thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 It won't make a huge difference, but there is some "squashiness" in multiple shim pads and suchlike, and we are talking a few thou inch of piston travel X 12 pistons in UK brakes. This is why real race cars tend to use no more pistons than avoiding pad taper will allow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MKIV-Supra Posted July 13, 2015 Author Share Posted July 13, 2015 But when theyre Rusty like mine and per 1 caliper 1-2mm difference then it might be that difference that will maybe help. I will give a reply if it works and make a Video Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 If they are the J-Spec calipers make very sure the slider pins are totally free to move and grease them with black moly grease (like you would use in C/V joints). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MKIV-Supra Posted July 13, 2015 Author Share Posted July 13, 2015 I cleaned them already very good and the inside to, because they were stuck. Yes J-Spec calipers. I have to find piston seal kit for the back too. But its hard in germany to find something for the j-spec. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevie_b Posted July 13, 2015 Share Posted July 13, 2015 If they are the J-Spec calipers make very sure the slider pins are totally free to move and grease them with black moly grease (like you would use in C/V joints). I removed the wide rubber O-ring thing on the end of my pins: they were causing the pins to jam in their housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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