Jellybean Posted July 7, 2015 Author Share Posted July 7, 2015 The ECU reset really really isn't as traumatic as people make out. It won't drop to 300(!) rpm because of it, or hunt, or do anything really - it's hard to notice any change on first key-on. There is a guide on here for refurbing your ECU pins, try that horrible job, it worked for me years ago She stopped dropping to 300 or hunting , I would not expect it from the ECU reset, she is idling at 700 rpm now , I am just resetting the ECU to clear the 31 code to see if I can trigger it again Its a tricky one to figure out exactly what it is, will try see if I can find the guide, Thanks Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted July 7, 2015 Author Share Posted July 7, 2015 hows your heater matrix ? could of leaked coolent on the ecu connections did they feel oily at all? How did the crank fail with a mass of mess or just your heard is do the squeek thing . must admit it is an odd one but does sound like a connection issue , could be temp sensor thats sort of new the water pump could of caught it ptting the belt on ? Thats all fine , no issues Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 Just to throw another thing into the mixer. How about checking/cleaning the IAC (Idle Air Control valve) which can lead to surging idle speeds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted July 8, 2015 Author Share Posted July 8, 2015 It was a loose,crimped wire, she ran fine today; I was in the passenger seat the other day, so pressing on the ECU plastic cover must of interfered with the map wire, they are all tucked away nicely under there now so hopefully no issues IACV , I really dont want to be pulling things apart if it is not causing an issue , I unplugged it and it made no odds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 (edited) At least the loom connectors that Toyota use are excellent quality, and in the main very reliable. The only ones which give regular problems are the terminals and terminal housings to the coil packs, and these are well documented. Some makes use appallingly bad connectors and one can spend days chasing intermittent issues. This is why proper race cars use horrendously expensive, but superbly reliable MIL spec connectors. Just keeping an inventory of tooling to crimp the more common terminals costs me a fortune. A single crimp tool can be £300 plus. I tend to buy expensive tools with interchangeable jaws, it works out cheaper than separate unique application tools, long term, but there are dozens of varieties of jaws and "squeezers" nonetheless. Commonest problem is people poking wrong size probes into small connector plugs and opening up the delicate terminal, they then go intermittent. Edited July 8, 2015 by Chris Wilson (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted July 8, 2015 Author Share Posted July 8, 2015 Chris just my stupidity , she should be fine now Thanks for all the help, you'll make a mechanic out of me yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted July 9, 2015 Author Share Posted July 9, 2015 Well I am back So took the car for a spin , small hesitation on transition to 2nd turbo ,similar to fuel cut for a sec then she goes up the rpm; on the back roads so did not really have time to give her the beans, dropped her off with Pat for the day Started about 6 times since yesterday and now, also drove fine yesterday evening for Pat Collected her this morning , when to start her, click, nothing, click again nothing ; turned the Alarm on/off she fired up Off I went heading for home, 50 KM away, did a WOT , small hesitation on 2nd turbo like fuel cut then she goes up the rpm, a few KM later , no issues, another few KM later, no issues, I did about 2-3 WOT's at this stage Went into the petrol station for petrol , filled her up, started her, then the idle started hunting 1500-2K rpm then back , pulled out of the garage , she would accelerate by herself to 2.5k rpm then stop and drop back to 1.5K rpm, then go again; got a bit dangerous slowing down as the car would want to run away Pulled in and reset the battery hoping it would curtail the rpm hunting , and get me home , no luck On the motorway, all good as she was about 2K, when to give her a wot in 4th gear, got a little past 3K rpm , violent cut like fuel cut, MIL (middle ! light on the speedo) flashed on/off 2-3 times, I eased back off, to a cruise to get her home, near home I tried again and she went fine , I could not replicate the MIL light scenario, at the traffic lights she idled normally A few meters later , I did a WOT , worked fine but went back to rpm hunting , coming up to a stop at the traffic lights, 1.5-2k , got home and parked her up , rpm hunting , 1.5-2K; then stopped idled at 700rpm, turned her on/off rpm hunting , 1.5-2K Also she smells a bit rich, ECU has no error codes, I dont think I drove it long enough to record another one What do you guys think? Video for ref after I parked her up https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eZC6EgMNpXs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 If the MIL light came on there should be a fault code stored now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted July 9, 2015 Author Share Posted July 9, 2015 If the MIL light came on there should be a fault code stored now. Cool , will go back down and check What are you thinking VSV's, TPS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 a vsv would not do anything like that at idle dude , they all work via boost. im thinking more TPS , but when you have the fault on like in the video would be a good time to go move / wiggle connections . at least with a fault on all the time like that you stand half a chance of finding it . I had a miss fire when warming up from cold took me ages to find it because i had a very small window to check and test think it was like a year lol , it turnt out to be coil pack wiring loom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted July 9, 2015 Author Share Posted July 9, 2015 No engine error codes , I think it's a dodgy earth Going to take off and inspect/clean the iacv too Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted July 9, 2015 Author Share Posted July 9, 2015 Car runs great then runs crap, does something random I cannot replicate like not Rev over 3100 rpm , then she runs great again , cycle starts again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted July 9, 2015 Author Share Posted July 9, 2015 Would a dirty icv cause overfueling? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted July 9, 2015 Author Share Posted July 9, 2015 What about an ECU power ground lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted July 9, 2015 Author Share Posted July 9, 2015 I go so pee'd off and taught it was a ground I just started taking insulation tape off any ECU wires , Little bastard had insulation tape over it , took it off and it was in half; will re-soldered it tomorrow but did a quick fix She is going like a train again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheTurtleshead Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 That's why I haven't cut any wires on my loom...! Custom adapters ftw! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted July 9, 2015 Author Share Posted July 9, 2015 That's why I haven't cut any wires on my loom...! Custom adapters ftw! The Japanese did it Where's my bowl of rice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted July 10, 2015 Share Posted July 10, 2015 good find , I redone all my ecu connections with solder and heat shrink best thing for it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 10, 2015 Share Posted July 10, 2015 Is that a ground, or an ECU +12V feed?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted July 10, 2015 Author Share Posted July 10, 2015 Is that a ground, or an ECU +12V feed?? According to the jspec schematic, it's pin 80 power ground, pin 79 is also a power ground Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted July 10, 2015 Author Share Posted July 10, 2015 good find , I redone all my ecu connections with solder and heat shrink best thing for it Doing that today , going to redo them all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.