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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Bizzys Supra rebuild and restoration


Bizzyfingers

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So the mailman delivered a parcel last week, whether I use this Turbo is another question. It's a CT26 from the 1JZ Mk3 supra and other Toyota models etc. It does need a rebuild as it has some radial play. Any info on this Turbo and whether it will be suitable for my NA would be greatly appreciated.

 

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Edited by Bizzyfingers (see edit history)
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It's an art, get yourself plenty of practice panels and an orbital polisher. The trick to cutting paint back with an orbital is pressure, use good lights and slow passes back and forth. Use correct pads with a good cutting compound (3m fast cut followed by ultrafina is reasonably cheap) I use scholl concepts mainly but swap out with different compounds and pads for different paint types etc.

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It's an art, get yourself plenty of practice panels and an orbital polisher. The trick to cutting paint back with an orbital is pressure, use good lights and slow passes back and forth. Use correct pads with a good cutting compound (3m fast cut followed by ultrafina is reasonably cheap) I use scholl concepts mainly but swap out with different compounds and pads for different paint types etc.

 

 

Like it! Shame your not coming on the meguiars day

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Guest bereavement

Looks really good... Similar to mine really although you are a bit further down the line... Is there a 'trainee' type thing you could recommend on the leather steering wheel restoration? Mine looks a bit tatty and i just don't know where to start on it!

 

ALSO, where the devil do I get those front clear indicator lenses? i MUST HAVE THEM.

 

Keep up the good work. Although it is making me look a little lazy.

 

D

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Some great work going on in this thread. The paint looks loads better than it did to start. Probably better than most people's now.

 

Ref those brakes. I'm not certain they would be repairable. If the pins are that badly corroded, the holes in which they fit will be equally as bad. Thus new slide pins probably won't do much and they will start binding quite quickly again.

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Looks really good... Similar to mine really although you are a bit further down the line... Is there a 'trainee' type thing you could recommend on the leather steering wheel restoration? Mine looks a bit tatty and i just don't know where to start on it!

 

ALSO, where the devil do I get those front clear indicator lenses? i MUST HAVE THEM.

 

Keep up the good work. Although it is making me look a little lazy.

 

D

I'm not sure about training, it's best to look online for who is in your area and the lenses came with the car, sorry, I'm not sure where they were purchased

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Some great work going on in this thread. The paint looks loads better than it did to start. Probably better than most people's now.

 

Ref those brakes. I'm not certain they would be repairable. If the pins are that badly corroded, the holes in which they fit will be equally as bad. Thus new slide pins probably won't do much and they will start binding quite quickly again.

I know what you mean. I'm looking into getting some Brembo brakes for it when the turbo install happens, atm I just want brakes that were not binding to do a few small runs out. If they bind early I'll bite the bullet and get the brakes earlier.

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Now... This is my pet hate (more of an illness as I have misophonia/acute hatred of certain sounds). I cannot stand rattles or squeaking within interiors of cars. And this one is so bad I'd end up destroying the car in a fit of rage if it was allowed to continue... So here comes the investigation into why my car rattles like a child's shaker toy... and here is my (temporary) solution.

 

The clips retaining your dash are made of metal and they are clipped onto plastic but loosely...

 

image

 

A little bit of insulation tape between the plastic and the clips (cut oversize) has done the trick, I'll test drive the car later and see how much better it is but as for the tap test it's 99% better. The dash fits more snugly and I used a little grease between the upper binnacle and the leather part of the dash to stop the squeaking.

 

image

Edited by Bizzyfingers (see edit history)
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  • 3 weeks later...

The insulation tape works btw. Drives like a new car.

 

I've been getting the engine prepped ready to be pulled out. Should be out some night through the week. Here is the old bay, next time the engine sees this bay it will be much cleaner, powered through a front facing Inlet manifold and boosted.

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