mwilkinson Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 I'm starting to think ahead to the respray on my car now that I have a cumulated most of the parts required for a respray. I want the car to be immaculate as I intend to keep it long term. When I resprayed my last car I had the shell taken back to bare metal, or as best as could be obtained in a rolling shell state. This time I intend on taking the car back to a bare shell and rebuilding. This got me thinking that I should really go all the way and have the shell acid dipped. Has anyone had experience of this? Any idea as to the cost of such a process? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldy Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 I've heard several rumours of the acid staying in the panel seems and affecting the paint years down the line. I'd look at media blasting instead! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 Soda blasting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 Strangely I'd not considered that as I thought the size of the shell would have been prohibitive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 I've heard several rumours of the acid staying in the panel seems and affecting the paint years down the line. I'd look at media blasting instead! That's an eye opener. In striving for a perfect starting point I could inadvertently cause myself long term issues. Surely this would be a result of a poor post dip cleaning process? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 Soda blast is mobile and also leaves no mess as you just wash it away, a few comps up here doing it now. I wouldn't media blast it, I had a nightmare with my Range Rover bonnet, it can also deform the panels if your not careful There's also dry ice blasting to consider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 http://www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk/technical-process.html You MUST get the "electrophoretic" coating done though, or the shell will be covered in surface rust in a few hours. Great process, not chgeap, but does inside all the box sections blasting can't reach. Has anyone ever heard of a brand new factory MKIV shell ever hitting the market place? I found a brand new factory R33GTR shell in Japan, and had Jurgen bring it over. They were never listed by Nissan, so God knows how it escaped the factory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 I've been doing a bit of reading on the net and it seems a marmite experience to me. Equal measure of positive and negative stories for both dipping and media blasting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grahamc Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 I went through this for my 240z shell and ended up going down the SodaBlasting route. Both methods have pros and cons, but I am happy with the SodaBlasting option - the least worrying in my mind for potential problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evinX Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 Media blasting is the best bet, I don't like the idea of acid dipping because you loose good metal to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 Acid dipping was de rigeur a few years back in racing, to lose weight in the shell. But if not properly washed in an alkali solution, then water, then FULLY dried, as in a spray booth with the heaters on for 24 hours, they had a habit of falling apart quite quickly.Not that it mattered at the top level. I am told the current processes have eliminated these issues, and I know of *NO* other way to get rid of rust in seams and box sections. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 My car does not have a rust issue, so cleaning out the box sections wouldn't be all to necessary. Clearly I would need to inspect these with an endoscope once the tear down begins to know for certain, but I'm confident they are in good order. I think the key will be to find a reputable company who can soda blast the car without distorting the crap out of it. I might omit the bonnet and doors to minimise damage. They also appear a lot easier the take back to bare metal. I like the idea of a factory fresh shell like you got Chris, but I like the idea of maintaining / keeping the matching chassis and engine. Graham - do you mind telling me where and how much you paid for the 240Z soda blasting. PM if you prefer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 I have used this chap to do an F3000 carbon tub and carbon bodywork, not cheap though! But he was careful. http://www.soda-blast.co.uk/sbsuk_004.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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