Jellybean Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 Hey Aux belt jumped off behind the crank pulley when I went to pull out of the car park space this morning, going to put on a new crank pulley , water pump, oil pump , tbelt etc She should be ok to drive to the garage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 Sounds like the crank pulley could be failing, if so don't drive it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted June 19, 2015 Author Share Posted June 19, 2015 It's knackered I reckon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 Maybe you have just found the Gremlin of your Supra's strange noise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 Wouldn't be driving it unless the garage is a few meters away as with no water pump there is no way for the coolant to be moved around the engine and it will over heat very quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted June 19, 2015 Author Share Posted June 19, 2015 Wouldn't be driving it unless the garage is a few meters away as with no water pump there is no way for the coolant to be moved around the engine and it will over heat very quickly. Belt still turns around, all aux items are getting run Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted June 19, 2015 Author Share Posted June 19, 2015 Maybe you have just found the Gremlin of your Supra's strange noise? It is the Diff grumbling too I think some 75W 140 oil will quieten it down and will check the torque on the crown pinion nut after the few 100 KM on her Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 What are you torqueing that up/down to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 19, 2015 Share Posted June 19, 2015 Has the ribbed outer pulley come off the crank damper? So now the belt is running on the inner, smooth part? If so you should be able to drive it a short distance at low RPM. If the alternator light comes on it means the belt has come off altogether and it will overheat in next to no time as the water pump and fan are no longer turning. Is there any function on this thing that does NOT have issues Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted June 19, 2015 Author Share Posted June 19, 2015 Has the ribbed outer pulley come off the crank damper? So now the belt is running on the inner, smooth part? If so you should be able to drive it a short distance at low RPM. If the alternator light comes on it means the belt has come off altogether and it will overheat in next to no time as the water pump and fan are no longer turning. Is there any function on this thing that does NOT have issues ribbed outer pulley is till intact, the belt is running on the inner, smooth part She's 22 years old , had planned to do all this prior to putting her on the road not due to issues , just because of age Will get there ! She still goes like a train Good old Toyota 90's engineering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted June 19, 2015 Author Share Posted June 19, 2015 What are you torqueing that up/down to? Drive Pinion Preload New bearing preload (at starting) 2.0 – 2.5 N·m (20 – 25 kgf·cm, 17.3 – 21.7 in.·lbf) Max Torque 510 N·m (5,200 kgf·cm, 376 ft·lbf) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 You don't just tighten the pinion nut up tight, you slowly torque it a bit more and more measuring the bearing movement torque (preload) with a special low measurement torque wrench. If you have just torqued the pinion nut up bloody tight the pinion bearings are now almost certainly FUBAR..... It will need a new crush tube as well as new pinion bearings, and the pinion depth setting will probably need re-doing. Diff builds are treicky until you have done a few and got a feel for things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 That was the point of my question, I suspect that the diff requires assembling correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 (edited) Trust me I had these discussions with my mechanic but he is confident in his ability , has done a few, he was measuring the bearing movement after each nip of the nut, If anything she was well under torqued, within the threshold Question you might want to ask is if I trust his ability, and in fairness to him, he has done right so far and he did race a supra for a few years ; We will get there, we all learn from our experiences but thanks for all the advice ! Really appreciate it [emoji6] Edited June 20, 2015 by Jellybean (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 (edited) There's no real right or wrong torque, the nut is tightened and a tubular spacer is slowly crushed unti the space between two roler bearings is reduced such as the preload on them is measured by their drag. There must be a YouTube video of someone doing a pinion bearing preload torque, surely? I have to warn that I have seen some totally incorrect automotive advice there, so take care. if I see something I'll try and post a link. I have a horrible feeling he's done it wrong.... Over preloaded pinion bearings would certainly whine!! EDIT: Here you go: The preload for used bearings will be different to that recommended for new ones. Edited June 20, 2015 by Chris Wilson (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 Thanks Chris Tim was also doing it with him, he builds custom offroad buggys etc Was just talking to him just there and he said she is definitely nowhere near the max 376 ft·lb He reckons she needs to be nipped up a little bit more and go from there, his torque wrench only goes to a max of 280 ft·lb If the bearings are FUBAR , we will replace and go again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 EDIT: Here you go: The preload for used bearings will be different to that recommended for new ones. Thanks! Similar to what the guys did Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 He reckons she needs to be nipped up a little bit more and go from there, his torque wrench only goes to a max of 280 ft·lb That's irrelevant, he doesn't even need a torque wrench to check the nut tightness, he needs a special inch / pound torque wrench to see how much friction is in the bearings, and adjusts the tightness on the pinion nut to achieve this. If he goes too far and the crush tube is "crushed too much" there's no going back, it needs a new tube and probably new bearings if it's been run, and the adjustment started again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 (edited) thanks , do you know the name of the special inch / pound torque wrench ? I sent him your vid too Edited June 20, 2015 by Jellybean (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 http://www.toolstop.co.uk/norbar-13285-tti20-torque-wrench-1-4in-square-drive-adjustable-1-20-n.m-10-180-lb-p70033 Cheap and nasty, probably, but perhaps OK for the occasional user. A Stahlwille one is probably £250 plus these days. You can get creative and use physics; a fisherman's balance pulling exactly 12 inches along a breaker bar, with the diff positioned so the weight of the bar is not adding to the torque. IE, with the pinion nut pointing up to the ceiling, and pulling the breaker bar or whatever horizontally. We are talking very gentle effort here. Can it be done by feel alone? Hell, yes, after you have done 50 or so Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pedrosixfour Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 You can get creative and use physics; a fisherman's balance pulling exactly 12 inches along a breaker bar, with the diff positioned so the weight of the bar is not adding to the torque. IE, with the pinion nut pointing up to the ceiling, and pulling the breaker bar or whatever horizontally. We are talking very gentle effort here. That was the method I used on my original crown wheel & pinion swap. I was hoping it was a recognised option to a suitable torque wrench! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jellybean Posted June 20, 2015 Author Share Posted June 20, 2015 Thanks ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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