Ian. Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 My engine builder has suggested a no run in period. Then for the first 1000 miles having frequent oil changes and then after 1000 miles the car goes back and gets a final check over to make sure everything has bedded in ok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 I was watching a program the other day on top fuel drag racers, the engines are put together about 30 to 60 mins before the run and then taken apart again after the run, crazy but impressive though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 I was watching a program the other day on top fuel drag racers, the engines are put together about 30 to 60 mins before the run and then taken apart again after the run, crazy but impressive though I watched the same program, was very impressive. They don't run anything in, Start it - check it runs and put it on the line ready for 1000s of hp to go through it. Saying that they can afford the £50k+ bill if its goes bang. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wez Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 I watched the same program, was very impressive. They don't run anything in, Start it - check it runs and put it on the line ready for 1000s of hp to go through it. Saying that they can afford the £50k+ bill if its goes bang. 8000hp think it was one of the Rise of the Machines series Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 8000hp think it was one of the Rise of the Machines series Its an insane amount of power for something that weighs so little Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8KILR Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 This is how I recommend to run an engine in: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonR24 Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 This is how I recommend to run an engine in: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm That was very interesting! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 Please cite information showing recently manufactured production engines are using a finer hone pattern on the bores than those of yore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 Very interesting read Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarco Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 (edited) Ok so I'm 600 miles into the run in (whifbitz recommended run in distance) but I'm going to do another 300 miles just to be on the safe side. I'm changing the run in oil every 300 miles and keeping the car off boost and below 4k revs. Obviously I have never let the engine labour and switch it off if I'm sat for anything longer than a minute. Everything seems to be going ok the engine feels good from what I can tell so far. Although when I'm stationary and pull away I occasionally get a small puff of white smoke? Is that something to do with the thin run in oil I'm using or forged bottom end I have now? Or is something more concerning? Edited June 23, 2015 by Yarco (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8KILR Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 You have done everything the complete opposite of what the http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm suggests. It will be interesting to see who is right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 Ok so I'm 600 miles into the run in (whifbitz recommended run in distance) but I'm going to do another 300 miles just to be on the safe side. I'm changing the run in oil every 300 miles and keeping the car off boost and below 4k revs. Obviously I have never let the engine labour and switch it off if I'm sat for anything longer than a minute. Everything seems to be going ok the engine feels good from what I can tell so far. Although when I'm stationary and pull away I occasionally get a small puff of white smoke? Is that something to do with the thin run in oil I'm using or forged bottom end I have now? Or is something more concerning? A bit of smoke is to be expected with the run in oils but it should only be a little bit and go eventually. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarco Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 You have done everything the complete opposite of what the http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm suggests. It will be interesting to see who is right. Whilst I'll appreciate your recommendation I've got to go with the advice from whifbitz, which is exactly what I've done. They built it and run their engines in like this. I'm getting a compression check once the final oil change is done so I'll keep you posted Do you hard run in your supra engine builds then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarco Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 A bit of smoke is to be expected with the run in oils but it should only be a little bit and go eventually. Ye it's getting less frequent and thought it was down to the oil. Can't wait to put my foot down properly it's been a long and laborious run in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra matt Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 Whilst I'll appreciate your recommendation I've got to go with the advice from whifbitz, which is exactly what I've done. They built it and run their engines in like this. I'm getting a compression check once the final oil change is done so I'll keep you posted Do you hard run in your supra engine builds then? I would request a Leake down test mate this will show if the valves and piston rings are sealing as they should be after a fresh build, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarco Posted June 23, 2015 Author Share Posted June 23, 2015 I would request a Leake down test mate this will show if the valves and piston rings are sealing as they should be after a fresh build, I assume this leak down test is different to a compression check? Forgive me ignorance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 I assume this leak down test is different to a compression check? Forgive me ignorance Yes they are two different tests. Compression measures how much pressure in PSI each cylinder makes and they should be within 5-10% of each other. Leak down measures how much pressure leaks out past the rings, valves etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8KILR Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 Whilst I'll appreciate your recommendation I've got to go with the advice from whifbitz, which is exactly what I've done. They built it and run their engines in like this. I'm getting a compression check once the final oil change is done so I'll keep you posted Do you hard run in your supra engine builds then? Fair enough, you need to follow your engine builders recommendations. Yes, I run my engines in a lot harder. First engine was up to 7000 rpm and up to 10 psi boost. All this within the first 20 miles to get rings to bed quickly. Second engine was not quite so hard due to tune not being 100%. Limited that one to 6000 rpm and 5 psi boost. Both times the engines made good power and never smoked or had any issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra matt Posted June 23, 2015 Share Posted June 23, 2015 I assume this leak down test is different to a compression check? Forgive me ignorance Here you go mate have a read of this if you wont some bed time reading, http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/Compression-leakdowntest.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarco Posted June 24, 2015 Author Share Posted June 24, 2015 (edited) Here you go mate have a read of this if you wont some bed time reading, http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/Compression-leakdowntest.htm Cheers interesting bed time read. lol Edited June 24, 2015 by Yarco (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarco Posted June 24, 2015 Author Share Posted June 24, 2015 Fair enough, you need to follow your engine builders recommendations. Yes, I run my engines in a lot harder. First engine was up to 7000 rpm and up to 10 psi boost. All this within the first 20 miles to get rings to bed quickly. Second engine was not quite so hard due to tune not being 100%. Limited that one to 6000 rpm and 5 psi boost. Both times the engines made good power and never smoked or had any issues. I'm not doubting your advice but I'm glad you can appreciate I have to do what the engine builder says. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarco Posted June 24, 2015 Author Share Posted June 24, 2015 Yes they are two different tests. Compression measures how much pressure in PSI each cylinder makes and they should be within 5-10% of each other. Leak down measures how much pressure leaks out past the rings, valves etc. I'll be getting one of those then, cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted June 29, 2015 Share Posted June 29, 2015 Is it run in yet? Dyno booked? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8KILR Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 Any update on how the run in went. Is it still smoking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.