Yarco Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Hi, I'm hopefully getting my car back next after waiting 4 months for Whifbitz to rebuild my engine. Paul has recommended rural and town driving conditions to cover the initial 300 miles during run in. I was wondering if anyone else had any recommendations on the subject so I give my newly rebuilt engine the best possible chance of a strong and long life? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnny g Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Ask Paul to run it in for you? Or have him document what he wants you to do, then stick to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Listen to what Paul says. You need to not let the engine labour, where its at low revs with a high load. You also need to use the car through the rev range but off boost and don't just sit on the motorway with it at 3K. vary the revs as much as you can. What spec have you gone for?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 I would do exactly what the engine builder says to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarco Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 Listen to what Paul says. You need to not let the engine labour, where its at low revs with a high load. You also need to use the car through the rev range but off boost and don't just sit on the motorway with it at 3K. vary the revs as much as you can. What spec have you gone for?? Well I had piston damage so re-bore with oversized 3.1 mahl pistons. Fully forged bottom end what ever that consists of. Newly refurbished head with new valves e.c.t. I'm only running full bpu with an apexi fc power ecu. Single turbo is going have to wait for big power, I'm a bit skint after spending 8k+ on this rebuild lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarco Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 Thanks for the feedback, just testing the water really. Clearly I trust Paul or I wouldn't of spent so much money there in recent years and waited patiently for my car to rebuilt. Just hope it's worth waiting for. I'll do exactly what Paul recommends but just wanted the forums experiences. Cheers guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 Thanks for the feedback, just testing the water really. Clearly I trust Paul or I wouldn't of spent so much money there in recent years and waited patiently for my car to rebuilt. Just hope it's worth waiting for. I'll do exactly what Paul recommends but just wanted the forums experiences. Cheers guys. Built engines are expensive. But it will be worth it as going forward it should take as much power as you can throw at it I had my last engine built by Paul and that did numerous track days without missing a beat. Its still going now after I sold it and believe its about to get a single turbo and replace an NA lump very shortly if not already done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarco Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 Built engines are expensive. But it will be worth it as going forward it should take as much power as you can throw at it I had my last engine built by Paul and that did numerous track days without missing a beat. Its still going now after I sold it and believe its about to get a single turbo and replace an NA lump very shortly if not already done. Well that's good news, it's good to hear positive things. Just can't wait to get it back the weather is getting nice and I need boost in my life again! My td focus just isn't cutting it lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tsia Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 I'll be getting my own rebuilt engine soon and the builder is asking for 1,000 miles on it! Not that I mind, it's a 250 mile drive home from the garage, so that's half the distance covered just by going there and back. I've been told to take it through the rev range, starting, stopping, roundabouts etc. I'll get a proper written bit of instruction when I pick the car up, hopefully! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Supes Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 Can't the engine be run-in on the dyno? Years ago we used to run-in outboard engines for race boats on our dyno. The dyno had a specific setting which would take it through the rev range and apply load accordingly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 Can't the engine be run-in on the dyno? Years ago we used to run-in outboard engines for race boats on our dyno. The dyno had a specific setting which would take it through the rev range and apply load accordingly. It could be on a hub dyno but I'm not sure a dyno operator/owner will be happy with you putting 250 - 1000 miles on their dyno (they are expensive things). Its also difficult to get the various loads, revs, start/stop on a dyno. The base maps of ECUs are very good these days and if you have a decent mapper can load it on, check it all and drive away if you keep off boost. The whole running in engines has been asked before, some say 250 some say 1000. Some say nothing at all! I know when Paul and Steve were running in Time Attack they didn't run them in at all - just went out and did the running in on the dyno and track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luxluc Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 I would do as many mls as you can. I did 2x350mls on the running in oils (1 change after 350mls, then another one after 700mls to put the real oil in). Then another 400mls on the real oil before it was put on the hub dyno. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 I would do as many mls as you can. I did 2x350mls on the running in oils (1 change after 350mls, then another one after 700mls to put the real oil in). Then another 400mls on the real oil before it was put on the hub dyno. You just like to keep the oil companies in business Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarco Posted June 3, 2015 Author Share Posted June 3, 2015 Great advice here, it's good to get other engine builders opinion. 300 miles on run in oil, no main roads were you are likely to sit at a constant rpm and then after that fresh oil and boost. That's what Paul recommend and clearly he knows his stuff. Slightly off topic will my car sound different as it will be 3.1 litre? Only running full bpu for the time being, just curious if anyone knows? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
np89 Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 I was always under the impression for a good race engine build it. Put 200 miles on it change the oil and map it. Run them in hard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luxluc Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 What piston size are you running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bailey Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 What piston size are you running? They would be 87mm i think if its a 3.1. Not 100% on that though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 This engine will be crying out for a single then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Supes Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 It could be on a hub dyno but I'm not sure a dyno operator/owner will be happy with you putting 250 - 1000 miles on their dyno (they are expensive things). Its also difficult to get the various loads, revs, start/stop on a dyno. The base maps of ECUs are very good these days and if you have a decent mapper can load it on, check it all and drive away if you keep off boost. The whole running in engines has been asked before, some say 250 some say 1000. Some say nothing at all! I know when Paul and Steve were running in Time Attack they didn't run them in at all - just went out and did the running in on the dyno and track. Ah, fair enough. Not sure about no running in though! Would definitely want to change the oil and filter after 100 miles. That's just me though and Paul has a lot more experience with these engines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 My two pennorth. DO NOT START IT WITH THE CLUTCH DEPRESSED if it's a heavy duty clutch, and a manual, which given a "fully forged bottom end", sounds like it's a highly modded single turbo beast? Start it in neutral. Even standard road cars with stater lock outs on the clutch pedal, which many new cars have these days as a sap to the US market, are having crank thrust bearing issues never seen before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarco Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 They would be 87mm i think if its a 3.1. Not 100% on that though. Ye I think they are 87mm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarco Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 This engine will be crying out for a single then Ye I know that's next, injectors, single conversion and a clutch and should be good for around 800hp. However funds are tight after this rebuild lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted June 4, 2015 Share Posted June 4, 2015 Ye I know that's next, injectors, single conversion and a clutch and should be good for around 800hp. However funds are tight after this rebuild lol Yeah understand that. Don't forget fuel setup as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarco Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 My two pennorth. DO NOT START IT WITH THE CLUTCH DEPRESSED if it's a heavy duty clutch, and a manual, which given a "fully forged bottom end", sounds like it's a highly modded single turbo beast? Start it in neutral. Even standard road cars with stater lock outs on the clutch pedal, which many new cars have these days as a sap to the US market, are having crank thrust bearing issues never seen before. Good advice, I do have a bit of a habit of turning my focus over with the clutch pedal down for a quick get way. However my supra has always been started and left to warm up a bit before I pull away so hopefully crank thrust bearing issues won't come into play. I believe I have an after market clutch but it's not a heavy duty one, still running full bpu and apexi fc power. As above big single power has to wait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yarco Posted June 4, 2015 Author Share Posted June 4, 2015 Yeah understand that. Don't forget fuel setup as well. Ye I assume I'll need another uprated fuel pump too. The list is never ending lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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