Guest PaganizeR Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 (edited) Hello, We have a big problem and we are really stuck on this, So i hope anyone here got idea's and can help us out. Last week we replaced the clutch of the supra, Its a 5 speed w58. We replaced the stock clutch with a spec stage 3+ 5speed. The problem is that we cannot get it into its gears anymore when the car is running. When its not running it does go into the gear too. We have replaced both master and slave cylinders too, Bleeded it so all air was out. Also we have tryed to adjust the clutch pedal, But it stays a little lose, like there's little pressure behind it. We also checked if the plate was beeing fitted correctly and we did the stickers on it said wich way to go and that went fine. My friend was saying something about the Clutch Release Bearing is to little / not thick enough ? (Althought it was the same size as the original (oem) one) I hope anyone got any idea's on this and also sorry if my english isnt that great, Trying my best ^^ Edited May 30, 2015 by PaganizeR (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 (edited) I have had so much trouble with aftermarket clutches I now either only fit Giken or tell the customer if they specify a clutch and it either judders or won't release fully it's THEIR problem and ongoing labour is definitely NOT free of charge. Many are made from used pressure plates, remachined and it throws out the geometry, causing insufficient release travel. Often the only fix is a larger bore master cylinder, or a smaller bore slave cylinder, and a pedal stop to prevent bearing over travel. Machining custom parts may be involved. There were a choice of slave cylinder bore sizes, but I forget just what was available from Toyota. Note that such changes in size wilkl result in a considerable increase in pedal effort required, it's all simple leverage ratios at the end of the day. A crutch is to extend the pedal push rod, but you must leave some free play in the pedal, and you must keep readjusting as the clutch wears. Basically there are some junk clutches out there, usually marketed strongly, in fancy magazines. All that glisters... You're English is a hell of a lot better than many Englishmen command on this forum Let me know if the above helps, ohh, and make sure you have no mats or anything under the pedal, these %8$@# clutches need every mm of pedal travel you can find. Edited May 30, 2015 by Chris Wilson (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PaganizeR Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Well we gave all these things a try already, Nothing seemed to work. We both think the kit is just failing to be honest. I've already mailed Whifbitz garage with my problem too i hope they get back to me soon. If they dont have a good point how to solve this problem i might need to ask them if i can send it back to them so they can either fix this or send me a new kit. I am already trying to look for a used oem clutch so i can atleast drive my car home from the garage and i can use it till i get the spec fixed or replaced by them. Because that might take some time, Sending it back already takes 3 days or something so before everything gets around it might be weeks :/ but thats all IF i can send it back to them as i bought it almost 4 months ago but never had place and time to replace my clutch :/ Its just really f....ed up my friend and people he knows all use a spec clutch and noone of them had problems with it .. but me ... Well i have never been lucky with cars sadly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nic Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Does the car need a stronger aftermarket clutch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Have you actually tried adjusting the clutch pedal push rod, under the dashboard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PaganizeR Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 @ Nic, My old one was needing replacement it kept slipping, And for future plans it was a good thing to get a stronger clutch. @ Chris Wilson, Yes we have tried that but that didnt work, At some point the pedal was a little bit harder to push in but it still didnt go into its gears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 If you put it in say 3rd gear and try and start the car with the clutch pushed down, will it turn over and start, or does the car shoot forward? (Take care, obviously....). Does the clutch pedal feel normal, with normal effort right from the top? Or is there no or little effort needed to push it down? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PaganizeR Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 (edited) My car is like 1 hour away from my home so i cant test it in the gear and start, and my friend doesnt wana try that before he destroy's my car .. But the clutch pedal doesnt feel normal the begin is little lose after pushing it down like 5-10% there's some little effort, but its to lose, There isnt enough effort needed to push it down.. Edited May 30, 2015 by PaganizeR (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PaganizeR Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 (edited) Its like pushing down the clutch pedal is easyer than it was with the oem basic clutch. Its not like there is no effort needed at all to push it, but just way to little imo Edited May 30, 2015 by PaganizeR (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Sounds like it needs bleeding properly then. maybe the master cylinder needs properly stripping and cleaning, maybe a new seal kit needs to be put in it, and / or in the slave cylinder. I would address those issues before pulling the clutch out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PaganizeR Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 (edited) We have bleeded it a couple of times, after we did something we did it. there seems to be no air in it. Both cylinders (master and slave) have been taken out and been stripped down and cleaned, also the seals were replaced, We have even tried to use the cylinders from my friends supra, Even that didnt work. Thats why we are really clueless on this problem :/ Everything we could think of isnt the issue it seems, We thought it would be the cylinders too after we bleeded but no luck Edited May 30, 2015 by PaganizeR (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Stubborn ones sometimes need pressure or vacuum bleeding. If you don't have the gear, try the below: Try leaving the bleed nipple open a bit and let it drip for an hour or so, whilst you keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir and keep it topped up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PaganizeR Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 We have done it the way to keep the nipple open and pushed down the pedal all the way down... closed it toke the pedal back up and pumped it a couple times and opened it agian and all the way down agian... we did this a couple of times till there was no more air in it. (we also watched the reservoir and kept it topped ofcourse) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 DO NOT pump it a couple of times!!! NO NO NO! SLOWLY down. hold down, close nipple, slowly up. Repeat. But letting them just drip can sometimes work magic... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PaganizeR Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 (edited) We pumped it a couple of times so we get back some pressure in the pedal, and after we got back a little we opened the nipple agian and just went slowly down and hold it down closed the nipple and went slowly up (the pedal stay's down at this point so toke it back up with hand) and repeat .. I think its the same way as you do with the breaks i believe.. But this is no good ? My friends tells me hes almost about sure thats not the problem anymore he says that it keeps having pressure and he says if there was air in it it should go back slowly Edited May 30, 2015 by PaganizeR (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pig Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 We pumped it a couple of times so we get back some pressure in the pedal, and after we got back a little we opened the nipple agian and just went slowly down and hold it down closed the nipple and went slowly up (the pedal stay's down at this point so toke it back up with hand) and repeat .. I think its the same way as you do with the breaks i believe.. But this is no good ? My friends tells me hes almost about sure thats not the problem anymore he says that it keeps having pressure and he says if there was air in it it should go back slowly Bleeding a clutch is not done the same as brakes. 1. Open the bleed valve and push the pedal down slowly (by hand). 2. When it reaches the bottom, close bleed value and pull the pedal up slowly. 3. Repeat 20-30 times, ensuring the fluid does not run out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.