Chris Wilson Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 If you stopped watching @#~* on YouTube and saying "anyone" every five minutes, and took the bloody thing to a garage we'd all be happy as Larry by now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 28, 2015 Author Share Posted May 28, 2015 (edited) Yes that would be the easy choise, But want to fix it my self, so i can lean off i myself. And it cant be true noone have testet Thir plugs. And this is a forum, where we should help one and another, insted of just say take it to a shop, if you no the answer, why just not just wrote that in, instad of go to shop, maybe you dont agree how i do it But please accpt i want to fix it my self with all the help i can get inhere Edited May 28, 2015 by jza800 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 That's not a viable test for plugs. It may show a carbon or conductive trace on the ceramic, but it doesn't show ho the plug is behaving at combustion temperatures, under combustion pressures, igniting a fuel / air mixture, with pulsed HV applied. That's the job of the oscilloscope and pick up coil on the coil pack. Just renew them, or have them blasted in a proper plug blasting machine. These seem rare nowadays, people look at mine as if it's something from another planet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luxluc Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 (edited) OEM coil packs aren't cheap, but they are the best. Forget the aftermarked ; I paid my lessons before .. don't do the same mistake mate. You'll pay twice in the end. Do it once right. Check Nic's link : you can get 6 for 475$ Edited May 28, 2015 by Luxluc (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 28, 2015 Author Share Posted May 28, 2015 That's not a viable test for plugs. It may show a carbon or conductive trace on the ceramic, but it doesn't show ho the plug is behaving at combustion temperatures, under combustion pressures, igniting a fuel / air mixture, with pulsed HV applied. That's the job of the oscilloscope and pick up coil on the coil pack. Just renew them, or have them blasted in a proper plug blasting machine. These seem rare nowadays, people look at mine as if it's something from another planet 4 I appreciate the explanation alot, i now that that was not the right way to do it,, but maybe some with understanding for plugs, could see that maybe some off the plugs seems to was/is bad, just looking at the messument i did on them.. so i was able to veryfi that i maybe had some plugs that maybe only had 85% off funktions back, that could explain that they maybe could make some hesitation when i go to boost.. but i can now understand it is not just to trubleshoot without the right tools Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 28, 2015 Author Share Posted May 28, 2015 OEM coil packs aren't cheap, but they are the best. Forget the aftermarked ; I paid my lessons before .. don't do the same mistake mate. You'll pay twice in the end. Do it once right. Check Nic's link : you can get 6 for 475$ yes i have seen that, and will consider it strongly if the problem solves with the plugs.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 29, 2015 Author Share Posted May 29, 2015 i now got my spark plugs.. but how much should i torque it to it is ngk PFR7B 4853 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 29, 2015 Author Share Posted May 29, 2015 i have now tried other plugs, it still cuts out.. as before Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 Can you not just borrow a set or even a single coil pack from someone to take these out of the equation? Not all aftermarket ones are crap, despite popular belief. I have been running a set of unbranded copies now on mine for over two years with great results at BPU and in that 2 years most of the miles have been pedal to the floor from a standing start on a strip. Its under these conditions that a coilpack that is breaking down will normally cause a miss. Have you taken the silicon sleeve off and looked very carefully at the end of the coil pack where it goes over the spark plug? I am sure you will see minute cracking there, this is where the high tension is escaping and tracking to earth. One trick I did on my old ones before I replaced them was to put 2 layers of good quality heatshrink over the end of the coil pack, under the silicon sleeve/boot thing. This worked perfectly on mine and cured the misfire completely while I was waiting for the replacements to arrive. Those cracks you show around the fixing lugs, although horrible and show your packs to be clapped out, are unlikely to be where the HT is leaking from btw. Its more likely to be the plug end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 29, 2015 Author Share Posted May 29, 2015 I have looked on the ends off the coil packs, and you are right, there are cracks on all off them, i have taken some iso tape as you use when you soilder joints on wirring.. but that hasent fix my sparks mis.. maybe that is to thin i dont now.. i have now tried the water mod in a spraycan, and i can hear after a while the spark going out off the coil, but where i dont now as i cant see that.. so i seems like i have to get new coils.. what coils have you tried??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shane Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 I have looked on the ends off the coil packs, and you are right, there are cracks on all off them, i have taken some iso tape as you use when you soilder joints on wirring.. but that hasent fix my sparks mis.. maybe that is to thin i dont now.. i have now tried the water mod in a spraycan, and i can hear after a while the spark going out off the coil, but where i dont now as i cant see that.. so i seems like i have to get new coils.. what coils have you tried??? If its the coils, and it certainly sounds likely if you can hear it then forget tape, it wont have the insulation properties you require at these voltages and will just pass through. Give them a thorough clean in isopropyl alcohol making sure they are absolutely spotlessly clean and dry and then put at least 2 layers of decent heatshrink over the ends and they MAY be ok for a while and get you going again. Running a lower boost until you replace them will help. I am unable to steer you to the exact ones I used, sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 29, 2015 Author Share Posted May 29, 2015 i cant go lower boost, as it is stock boost level.. i did nothing to the coil rather that just put the tape on, and i usede tape you use to wirring, when you have soldered the wirring.. but can you then say how it is posible that i can run normal, when the engine light is on?? should it not give the same symtoms, light on or not ? or does the ecu go and do something when the light is on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 30, 2015 Author Share Posted May 30, 2015 (edited) Problem solved, it was a coil that had cracked and cut spark at higher rpm... thanks alot for all off you time and help... Edited May 30, 2015 by SPG (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Didn't someone say that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 30, 2015 Author Share Posted May 30, 2015 many did, but had a hard time to convince myself to a bad coil, as the engine dident cut out when the engine light was on.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Didn't someone say that? Nah, surely not? "The fact they are cracked may mean the HT is escaping and tracking to ground under load. They DEFINITELY should be changed!!" LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 30, 2015 Author Share Posted May 30, 2015 Nah, surely not? "The fact they are cracked may mean the HT is escaping and tracking to ground under load. They DEFINITELY should be changed!!" LOL as said my mind had a hard time to understand that, when it worked fine with the engine light on, but when i did see and heard the the engine cut out, when i used the water, there was no more excuse to not changning them.. may sound stupid, but that how i work.. what to find the fault before i just change lot off parts.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Dont understand, accept the wisdom If you have a misfire its coil clips, followed by coils, followed by spark plugs 99% of the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 30, 2015 Author Share Posted May 30, 2015 i would say plugs clips and they coil but i now what you mean.. now i just have to find the reson way my seq dont work.. so vsv here we come.. but if i have it in ttc, and both valves are open, are can stay that way for over a week, can i then have a vacum leak? or is it one off my vsv that dont work.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 TTC mode eliminates the VSVs from the system, thats the point of it. The rest I don't understand what you mean.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 31, 2015 Author Share Posted May 31, 2015 when you put the car in ttc mode, i now i am eliminates the vsv from the system, but what i mean is, when i put it in ttc mode, the egcv vsv and the iacv vsv stayes open.. from the other engine i had those vsv closede within a week, mean that there should be a leak somewhere, and with the new engine, the vsv stayes open, iven after a week, so that should mean that i dont have a leak somewhere... so that leads me back to some vsv dont work as they should.. hope you understand now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted April 30, 2016 Author Share Posted April 30, 2016 I thought my problem was solved, but now I have hesitating trouble again, under boost about 3200 to 3800 rpm it hesitating twice i can feel it in 3 and 4th gear, but only when engine light is not on, as soon as my engine light turn on, no problem at all, it pull strong and hard and no hesitating at all.. and the error code i get is speed sensor, so it is not realetet to my problem.. i have changed my coils to superspark coils.. the coil is new , clips is new , and i run NGK PFR7B spark plug.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 13, 2016 Author Share Posted May 13, 2016 Problem found and solved... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
np89 Posted May 13, 2016 Share Posted May 13, 2016 Problem found and solved... Posting the problem and solution may be helpful to other members in the future? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 13, 2016 Author Share Posted May 13, 2016 it was the speed sensor code 42 that was the problem... i then examined the solder joints in the instrument and they were bad, so fixede them and all my problems were gone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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