jza800 Posted May 24, 2015 Author Share Posted May 24, 2015 (edited) i have now tried to do what i did on the videoclip... so here is mine, and the car has a problem to find a steddy idle point, when cold it idle fine 1100 rpm, and goes down to 650 - 700 rpm, when hot, the idle is not steedy, the other is very variable all from 700 to 1000 rpm.. but if i turn the engine off and on again, i can be lucky that it goes down to 650 - 700 rpm, otherwise it is variable from 700 to 1000 rpm... https://youtu.be/BKcN9ozfw44 Edited May 24, 2015 by jza800 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 24, 2015 Author Share Posted May 24, 2015 ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 24, 2015 Author Share Posted May 24, 2015 anyone??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 That O2 sensor *SEEMS* to be working OK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 24, 2015 Author Share Posted May 24, 2015 then i am lost.. what can i else do now then, as i begins to run out of opportunities now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 Take it to a good garage? Where abouts are you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 24, 2015 Author Share Posted May 24, 2015 Unfortunately we have no known supra mechanics here in my area, so I must and want to make it myself, I'm even in mechanic profession, but right here I have encountered a problem i cant find out.. but it is still strange, with engine light on, no problem at all.. engine light off hesitation.. so would that not make the spark plug/ coil pack / injection out off problem range, as i should be the same with the engine light on and off, if they should be the problem??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 I would wonder if the ECU itself was faulty. There's no need for a "Supra Mechanic", an engine is an engine and most work on the same principles. Can you borrow an ecu off a known good engine to try? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 24, 2015 Author Share Posted May 24, 2015 i have one from a 2jzgte auto, can i use that to trie? mine is a 6 speed manual.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 24, 2015 Share Posted May 24, 2015 I don't know, maybe, maybe not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 25, 2015 Author Share Posted May 25, 2015 i have now tried with another ecu from another manual car.. same symtoms , tried another map sensor.. same symtoms.. and it is only hesitating/spark blow out or what we can call it 2 times, between 3500 rpm to 4500 rpm, then it out with no hesitating.. and it only does it with full trottle, i cant fell it under full trottle.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 Hesitation and missing around peak torque is usually ignition related. Plugs or coil packs may be under suspicion. What plugs are in it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 25, 2015 Author Share Posted May 25, 2015 i run Denso IK22 Iridium Power Spark Plugs.. i think they are 2 to 3 years old, and have done about 5000 - 6000 km Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 I guess you need to try changing them, although for a similar price 15 minutes on a rolling road with a scope on the coils would show if they were faulty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 25, 2015 Author Share Posted May 25, 2015 what spark plug can you advise me to go for?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 I would use NGK PFR7B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 25, 2015 Author Share Posted May 25, 2015 (edited) ok, can you then trie to explain, the way the air/fuel gauge act under the Hesitation , because i can see it goes lean under Hesitation , and then right to rich when the Hesitation stops.. 1: is that because of unburned fuel (as i can then exclude the injector on the fuel rail ) 2: or can it be because off missing fuel (as i can have a fuel/injector problem) Edited May 25, 2015 by jza800 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 Could be either. Both might give similar readings. that's why you need proper diagnostic gear on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 25, 2015 Author Share Posted May 25, 2015 (edited) i dont now if you have read it, but when the engine light is on, there is no hesitation or blow out at all, it pulls like normal, and i can see on the air/fuel gauge, that it goes straigt to rich under boost.. if it was a spark plug or coil pack or injector that was bad, shouldent it be the same with the engine light on or not??? i now i ask alot, but i really trying to understand this Edited May 25, 2015 by jza800 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 25, 2015 Author Share Posted May 25, 2015 I would use NGK PFR7B it is this plugs right?? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6x-NGK-Platinum-Spark-Plug-PFR7B-4853-/221028609225?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item337654ecc9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobUK Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 Have you checked for oil leaks from the cam covers? Friend of mine had something very similar, we changed fuel pumps, spark plugs etc and all it was was the cam cover seal.... Worth looking if only to rule it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 25, 2015 Author Share Posted May 25, 2015 thanks for the advise, i will check that out when i change my plugs.. but where did i leaks, in the spark plugs hole or??? i have paintet a lot in the enginebay, and most off the parts have been remove from the engine to paint, incl the camcovers.. but i still have a hard time to understand what is going on here, as when the engine light is on, it pulls hard and strong, with no hesitation at all, but as soon as the engine light is off it is hesitating.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobUK Posted May 25, 2015 Share Posted May 25, 2015 His was leaking down the back of the block which is why it made it hard to find..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 25, 2015 Author Share Posted May 25, 2015 Ok i will check that out.. thanks for the avise Can the idle controle valve make the engine hesitating?? as that have been taken off the intake when i got i paintet? if not can the tps sensor if that not sit 100% correct should that give an errorcode right??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 26, 2015 Author Share Posted May 26, 2015 Anyone??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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