jza800 Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 (edited) I have a knock that make me crasy.. have taken my engine out off a well running car, only problem was the front main seal, and a blow first turbo, as the shaft got stuck so no boost.. i have fixed all that, and many part have been off because off paint, but everthing is now assembled and the car and engine is now running fine, BUT i have a knock that bother me alittle, maybe i am bearing over concurn over this problem but here it goes.. under idle on hot engine, i heard 1 to 2 knock then it stops again, then it can idle 10 to 15 min with no knock and other times onlt a couple off min, then i hear 1 to 2 knock again, it is not a loud ticking sound, only knock knock.. it is on the 1 cyl it knocks. somebody have some knowledge what it can be? or does the engine just need to run some miles?? (have been in a enginestand the last 6 months) Edited May 13, 2015 by jza800 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
np89 Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 Knock Knock is usually engine rebuild time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 13, 2015 Author Share Posted May 13, 2015 It is very close to this sound, just not as often as this.. and only at idle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
np89 Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 are your pulleys etc all on squarely? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
np89 Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 and do you know isit coming from the top or bottom of the engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 13, 2015 Author Share Posted May 13, 2015 i have new pullys from whifbitz purple, and some adjustble timinggear at the camshaft, both setting on 0. the only thing that i keep stock in the harmonic dampener... when i put my ear on the spark plug cover, and i am lucky that it knock when i hear, then it sounds like it is comming from the top end.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
np89 Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 Check the whifbitz pulleys. As far as i know it is possible to mount them back to front and they will not sit square and could cause the knock if they are off balance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 13, 2015 Author Share Posted May 13, 2015 http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?271294-Rattle-after-fitting-timing-belt/page3&highlight=engine+knock after reading this thread, his problem was the oil, i drive on 5w-40 from opieoils, can this really be the problem???? http://www.opieoils.co.uk/vsearch.aspx?SearchTerm=fuchs51 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
np89 Posted May 13, 2015 Share Posted May 13, 2015 Emmm ok though if the engine has run the wrong oil to the point where its started knocking it might be too late! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 13, 2015 Author Share Posted May 13, 2015 hmm, the engine has driven on 5w40 or 10w40 oil before with no problem.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 had the car startet today, no knock at all.. can it be a oil problem, maybe the 5w40 is to thin or??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
np89 Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 5w is a bit thin. You should ideally be looking at, at least 10w or even 15w for an engine putting out decent power. I think i have 10w 50 in my own car. But i ran 15w 50 in my 200sx. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 i now 5w is how thin it is when cold, and 40 is warm.. but how will the 5w or 10w effekt the engine when it get hot? i have to go over 83c to 85c before it will start knock if it will knock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 I've copied this for you Most oils on the shelves today are "Multigrades", which simply means that the oil falls into 2 viscosity grades (i.e. 10w-40 etc) Multigrades were first developed some 50 years ago to avoid the old routine of using a thinner oil in winter and a thicker oil in summer. In a 10w-40 for example the 10w bit (W = winter, not weight or watt or anything else for that matter) simply means that the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity/flow at low temperature. The lower the "W" number the better the oil's cold temperature/cold start performance. The 40 in a 10w-40 simply means that the oil must fall within certain viscosity limits at 100°C. This is a fixed limit and all oils that end in 40 must achieve these limits. Once again the lower the number, the thinner the oil: a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at 100°C etc. Your handbook will specify whether a 30, 40 or 50 etc is required. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 yes that was what i was thinking too, so change from 5w to 10w will not change anything or?? as it only for the flow cold?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
np89 Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 Yea thats a better response than mine lol thanks Dnk! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 No problem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 and how about my last post??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 Read the second two paragraphs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 (edited) i have. but am i right then, that i will make no diffence as i dont have cold issue??? 5w is the flow when cold, and 40 is the flow when hot, so the flow rating should be the same on 5w40 and 10w40 when hot, or am i missing something?? Edited May 14, 2015 by jza800 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jza800 Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 i have now done some research, and have now found some other than me have knock/rattle in the front, they mentioned the septine belt tensioner , and the timing belt tensioner.. the timingbelt tension idler is new, only the damper that push up the timingbelt idler so the timingbelt is tightened, is the old one, the septine belt tension is also the old one include the damper.. have somebody off you knowledge about they can make rattle/knock sound Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted May 14, 2015 Share Posted May 14, 2015 Take the Aux belt off and then run the engine, if the knock/rattle stops then you know its something the Aux belt drives eg p/s, a/c, water pump, tensioner pulley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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