Attero Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 Anyone got any advice on how to remove the nuts (which are now rounded) joining the manifold to the first cat. Trying every angle possible and still no luck. This is on Jakes n/a (ripped fear). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Supes Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 (edited) You might need to be underneath the car.... and yes, they can be a royal bitch!! I had to use a nut splitter on one of mine and a hacksaw blade with a masking tape handle to finish it off. Edited May 4, 2015 by Big Supes (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Supes Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 Tell him to remove the manifold completely and bolt a new one back up with a turbo on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjy Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 Have you tried using a 6 sided socket, on an extension bar from under the car? You may need to tap it on. If it is rounded, you could try using a 12 point socket and knock it on, hoping it grips. Failing that, remove the manifolds and cut them off or use what I like to call "get out of shit quick grips". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Budz86 Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 Out of interest, how would the 6 or 12 point socket help? I would have thought the more points the better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 (edited) 6 pointers are "flank" drive or use a 12 pointer one size too small and hammer it on. Edited May 4, 2015 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjy Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 Out of interest, how would the 6 or 12 point socket help? I would have thought the more points the better? 6 point is the same shape as the nut. Often you'll find if you've got a tight bolt, a 12 point won't grip quite as well as a 6 point as there is more of the socket "missing" so to speak where the other 6 points are. 12 point is more likely to round the nut or bolt off, as the 6 point is more of a snug fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 (edited) When you have found a spanner with some grip in it, some penetrating oil wouldn't go amiss and you stand a better chance with it hot. Work from underneath with a socket on a long extention. Edited May 4, 2015 by David P (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attero Posted May 4, 2015 Author Share Posted May 4, 2015 We've tried from underneath, over, loads of heat, loads of wd40, have attempted to split it and still no luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 Now that you've tried to split it, there's not much chance of turning back, bigger hammer and more elbow grease may give you "luck". If all else fails, removal of manifold is not much of a job, if you have a flank drive socket. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 Too late now but I always remove the manifold and 1st cat as one piece and then split the joint, as when it's out of the car access is easier to get a good long breaker bar on it. In my experience the manifold nuts always come off nicely after a good wire brush and spray and they are easily accessible. I'd still be tempted to do this now tbh it may help especially if you can get one of those sockets that works on rounded heads, that or even cut it off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attero Posted May 4, 2015 Author Share Posted May 4, 2015 Finally got the stubborn git off... now for the next one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 It looks like you worried it to death. Was that the easy one to get at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KamaSupra Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 This is why I took my aero Supra and now my new Supra both to the garage when I decatted, sod having this amount of trouble Within the hour the garage done it for £20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attero Posted May 4, 2015 Author Share Posted May 4, 2015 It looks like you worried it to death. Was that the easy one to get at? That was the easier one. The next one is a bigger pain in the arse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheTurtleshead Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 Taking the whole exhaust manifold & cat off of an N/A will take you all of 10 minutes Vry easy job! Then you have the whole thing out on the floor to work with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripped_fear Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 Right the last one is a sod. Its the rear mounting on the front manifold. It is having any of it. Splitter split trying to get though the bitch. So guessing cutting is the only option but how would I re fit the decay as there will be no thread. Will it be a case of drilling it out and fitting a bolt. This job is not fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripped_fear Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 Taking the whole exhaust manifold & cat off of an N/A will take you all of 10 minutes Vry easy job! Then you have the whole thing out on the floor to work with. Seriously mate all these exhaust bolts are siezed solid. The ones joining the manifold to the block are not much better. And don't wan to be rounding them off. Have had a spanned on them but they are in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Budz86 Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 Soak them in Plusgas mate; worked a treat on mine. WD40 is crap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjy Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 As Dean says, WD40 is indeed pants. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripped_fear Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 Yeah issue is i need it finished today as today it is my only free time. Managed to get the lower two bolts out the manifold with ease but the top ones no way they are going anywhere. Sick of this job shouldnt have started it, all because of this bloody ecu. Plus im past the point of no return really with it all in bits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripped_fear Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 So back to the cutting qurestion if i cut the stud how to i bolt up the new decat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjy Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 Stick a pic up of the offending stud... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attero Posted May 4, 2015 Author Share Posted May 4, 2015 What stud? Hah. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripped_fear Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 And there is it, its royal mullered after using the stud breaker thing but it still wont shift, I recon I can cut it off, just need to know how to go about fitting the new bits after the stud has been cut off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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