HKS SLD II speed limit defencer installation guide for Tiptronic Supras

[j_jza80]

The HKS SLD type II (2) is a top speed delimiter, made specifically for Tiptronic Toyotas. It both removes the top speed delimiter, and also locks the gearbox in 4th gear above the safe limits of 3rd gear.

 

Before I get started, after researching this topic for months, I came to the conclusion that it is potentially unsafe to delimit Tiptronic Supras if you are using a digital km/h-mp/h speedometer converter. It appears that the use of these with the SLD II skews the speed signal to the SLD, which in turn allows it to 'kick down' to 3rd gear at an unsafe speed. I'm sure I don't need to warn you how potentially dangerous that is!

 

Anyway, things you will need to complete this task:

 

- HKS SLD Type II (NOT Type 1 or T6!)

- basic socket set with 10mm socket

- wire strippers

- crimping tool

- crimp connectors - preferably the smaller red type (the SLD is supplied with connectors, but I didn't have a tool for that type - the red crimp connects fit with the HKS supplied ones)

- plenty of insulation tape

- zipties

 

Once you have the above, you need to familiarize yourself with the installation guide. Here is a translated version I found online.

(Note, only the top diagram is relevant here. )

 

The positions of the dip switches are highlighted in this diagram.

 

ECU pinout. Please not this diagram is as viewed from the loom side of the wiring blocks.

 

The first thing that needs doing is disconnect the battery. The battery terminals on my car are held on with 10mm bolts. Yours should be the same.

 

Once the power is disconnected, we can access the ECU bypulling the passenger side carpet back to expose the ECU cover in the footwell. It is held in place with 2x 10mm bolts at the bottom. Remove these, and the cover will just pull away. You should be left with this:

(Ignore the big red and yellow wires in the foreground, they're unrelated to this)

 

To make cutting the wires to the ECU blocks easier, it is best to remove some of the factory insulation tape from the looms at this point.

 

Get hold of your shiny new HKS SLD II, and set the pins to the positions indicated in the instructions (and the above diagram. It should look like this:

 

 

Now it's time to start cutting some wires! This is fairly intricate work, so if you're a complete novice with vehicle wiring, it would be an idea to get some practice first. A decent set of mechanical wire strippers and crimping tool will make this job much easier!

When making connections, NOTE the arrangement of male and female fittings already attached to the SLD, and fit corresponding types the ECU wiring loom. Not only does this make the job easier, it means that the device can be easily removed in the future.

 

Make sure that you leave enough wire on both sides of your cuts to crimp fittings on! I would recommend at least 1 1/2" / 40mm

 

With any work like this, it pays to be methodical, so I started from the left, and worked towards the right on the ECU loom.

With that in mind, we will start with the brown ground wire, which is located on the bottom right hand pin of block B75 (the second block from the left)

 

This wire needs cutting, and then joining to both connectors of black wire on the SLD.

 

Next we move onto block B76, which is 3rd from left. The wires we will be cutting on this block are the center four wires on the top row

 

The first wire to cut here is the red speed sensor wire, which is second pin from left on the top row. The ECU side of the cut needs joining to the yellow wire of the SLD, and the wiring loom side attaches to the white wire on the SLD

 

Next is the blue NCO sensor/signal wire. The ECU side of your cut needs attaching to the grey wire on the SLD, and the loom side of your cut to the brown SLD wire.

 

Next is the cream/blue striped solenoid 'B' signal wire. The ECU side of the cut needs attaching to the dark blue SLD wire, the loom side to the pink SLD wire

 

Next is the red/blue striped Solenoid 'A' signal wire. The ECU side of the cut needs attaching to the green wire, and the loom side to the orange SLD wire.

 

That is all the wires for block B76, so now onto block B77, which is 4th from left. The only wire to cut here is a blue one on the bottom row, 4th from left.

The ECU side of this cut just needs capping off, which I did with a female crimp. The loom side needs attaching to the light blue SLD wire.

 

The final one is on block B78, which is 5th from left. This is the red and black power cable in the very bottom right hand corner of this block. Note that there are other similar wires in adjacent blocks, but use the bottom right one as instructed. As per the earth, there are male and female fittings on the red power wire for the SLD, so cur the red/black striped power cable on the ECU loom, and join them together

 

That's it for cutting wires! Now begins the mundane task of wrapping ALL of your connections in Insulation tape.

 

Once that's done, the SLD can be mounted, using the stick pad provided. I mounted mine on the ECU cover.

 

Now refit the ECU cover, refit the carpet, and reconnect the battery. And that's it.

 

Hope this helps, but feel free to PM me if you have any questions.

[wile e coyote]

Fantastic write up mate

Will need to get myself one of these now

[wile e coyote]

Where did you get yours?

Can only see type 3

[j_jza80]

Thanks

 

I think I ordered it from nengun, but Im sure whifbitz do them too

[Burna]

Is there still not a way around the box kicking down on the facelift autos yet?

[TuneR]

Is there still not a way around the box kicking down on the facelift autos yet?

 

This does combat that, as he said its the speedo converter that causes the kickdown issue. You need to use a difference method to convert to MPH.

 

@ j_jza80 Have you tested it?

[Burna]

This does combat that, as he said its the speedo converter that causes the kickdown issue. You need to use a difference method to convert to MPH.

 

@ j_jza80 Have you tested it?

 

Ah I see, thanks

 

So which is the correct kmph to mph converter to use?

[TuneR]

Ah I see, thanks

 

So which is the correct kmph to mph converter to use?

 

Im in Ireland so we're in KMPH hence it doesn't apply, but iirc the OP just used a replacement speedo face which does the job.

[j_jza80]

As above, I got some dials from Metal Monkey, but got them to make me conversion dial faces which read up to 130mph. There's details early on in my build thread (see link in my sig)

[j_jza80]

 

@ j_jza80 Have you tested it?

 

No.

 

But I will as soon as my car is back together.

[Burna]

As above, I got some dials from Metal Monkey, but got them to make me conversion dial faces which read up to 130mph. There's details early on in my build thread (see link in my sig)

 

Oh right!, So the best thing to do is NOT convert the kph to mph electronically, but infact just fit new dials that rejig the numbers?

[j_jza80]

 

The only potential downside to using the conversion dials is that the speedo needle can potentially get stuck against the needle stopper for some time after a very high speed run, which apparently happens on TT Aristos. I will update the thread with further info on that when I know.

Edited April 16, 2015 by j_jza80 (see edit history)

[Pete]

Oh right!, So the best thing to do is NOT convert the kph to mph electronically, but infact just fit new dials that rejig the numbers?

 

...and hope that a potential buyer believes you when you say the ODO is all in KM and not miles.

 

I remembered why I got rid of mine - I was getting weird hesitations and flashing traction control lights at a certain speed. Could be the fact the previous owner installed a cheap speed convertor.

Edited April 16, 2015 by Pete (see edit history)

[Burna]

...and hope that a potential buyer believes you when you say the ODO is all in KM and not miles.

 

Pah! That doesn't matter, as every import Supra has had the mileage clock rolled back to the magical 40,000 miles mark anyway!

 

I remembered why I got rid of mine - I was getting weird hesitations and flashing traction control lights at a certain speed. Could be the fact the previous owner installed a cheap speed convertor.

 

I wish someone would sort it, because if god forbid anything happened to mine, and I couldn't find a UK spec I was happy with, I would go for a VVTi. But no way could I live with the problem of it kicking down

[Burna]

I remembered why I got rid of mine - I was getting weird hesitations and flashing traction control lights at a certain speed. Could be the fact the previous owner installed a cheap speed convertor.

 

So what have you got converting yours then?

[Pete]

So what have you got converting yours then?

I need to look. I can't remember what does what now.

[wile e coyote]

Fairly sure you had speed m8 same as me

[Pudsey]

Certainly also interested to hear how this turns out.

 

Anything that will prevent a kickdown at speed has to be the way forward.

 

Forgive me if I have misunderstood, but does this carry out the speedo correction too?

 

Look forward to the updates.

[j_jza80]

No, this delimits the top speed, and locks the gearbox into fourth gear at engine speeds deemed too high for 3rd.

 

I had noticed that people in Japan and Europe who had been using these had not had these dreaded kickdown issues. Using a regular SLD will cause this issue, and I suspect using a digital speedometer converter with the SLD II may potentially cause it too. That's why UI went with conversion dials instead of a speed signal 'fudger'

 

I'm not looking forward to testing it TBH

[wile e coyote]

Real shame this has not been resolved

Think only proper way is with a syvecs which will control the gearbox also

[j_jza80]

Real shame this has not been resolved

Think only proper way is with a syvecs which will control the gearbox also

 

Installing this in the method I've described will solve the issue

[wile e coyote]

But not the kph to mph

[j_jza80]

No, but buying the metal monkey dials solves that issue, properly.

[wile e coyote]

Ok

Will look more into it then

[j_jza80]

Well, it hasn't gone as well as I thought. Took it out for a drive earlier, and the dash warning lights lit up, and it refused to change gear with the paddles. So I removed it, and everything works perfectly again. I've double checked the connections, and it was definitely wired in correctly. Hmmm...

 

I'm going to leave it off the car until I get back from my euro road trip in a few weeks, then have another crack at it. I'll replace all the crimp connectors on the SLD and see if that cures it.