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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Oil pump replacement Procedure


Jellybean

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Hi

 

Reading through the workshop manuals, it is an engine out job ; is this the norm?

 

I was told you can lower the front cross member, and i was also told the sup does not need to come off , you cab slide the oil pump out but another guy said due to a lip on the sump, it needs to come off to get the oil pump off

 

If it is engine out, any other jobs worth doing?

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If you do, do it this way please post up and let us know how you get on as I'm looking to do mine soon. I'm thinking of removing the engine as I can do a few other jobs as well but might go the subframe drop method if it's not a complete ball ache.

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I think I will do the engine out, it's something I've not done and I've learnt over the years that lack of access makes for a frustrating fix. Rear cylinder head hose, Modine hoses, Oil pressure sensor, perhaps new engine mounts, a real nice clean up all round etc.

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The Modine hoses are two, moulded, short rubber hoses that feed water to, and take water from, the oil to water heat exchanger standard on TT engines, and fitted beneath the oil filter. They are a PITA to change with the engine in. Core plugs are cup shaped pressed steel plugs that plug the holes used in the casting of the block. They corrode from the inside, and even one about to leak can look perfect EXTERNALLY. I always renew them when an engine is out. Some (usually the one that is leaking.....) are impossible to change with the engine in the chassis. They are cheap and once you get the knack, are easy to remove and renew. If someone doesn't post part numbers I'll try and find time later or tomorrow to look them up for you.

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I did my oil pump as a precaution a couple of years ago with the engine in place in prep for going BPU which I only managed to get around to this year:rolleyes:

 

Yes the front sub frame needs to come off so you can get the upper part of the sump off but the hardest part of the job was the crank pulley bolt. The rest is just a sequential step of nuts and bolts. I would suggest doing your water pump (As always when changing the timing belt), crank pulley (it will save getting that nut off again if your crank pulley is old) and probably check all your front suspension components for wear whilst you have the front subframe off. Once you have it all back together get a suspension geo check as you will have disturbed the settings. I did the job over a couple of days at a steady pace in no hurry at all on axle stands.

 

Oh whilst I was under the engine I also did the Turbo oil drain hoses (Always hard and cracked) and engine mounts (as mine is a facelift they were toast!!). I did use my engine crane to support the engine when I was removing the subframe.

 

For me the engine comes out of a car when it needs a rebuild/replace but I suppose its horses for courses;)

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  • 2 months later...

Are these the hoses to the modine unit?

 

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1993_TOYOTA_SUPRA_JZA80-ALFQZ_8716.html?hl=87245A

 

87209-14810 HOSE SUB-ASSY, WATER, D

87209-14800 HOSE SUB-ASSY, WATER

 

Are these the Core plugs? You need to take off the intake to replace?

 

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_J_1993_TOYOTA_SUPRA_JZA80-ALFQZ_1105.html

 

96411-42500 PLUG, TIGHT, NO.1(FOR CYLINDER BLOCK) Qty 2

96411-43500 PLUG, TIGHT, NO.2(FOR CYLINDER BLOCK) Qty 11

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