boostman Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 OK my rear drivers side caliper is sticking on because the alloy is hot and it smells baaad! Can the pistons be freed off or is it a new caliper job? It's a jspec caliper Thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 You can free the caliper piston or slider pins to give you a temporary fix until you sort a new caliper or time to full refurb the seized one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostman Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 Might sound stupid but how do you free the piston? Use a g clamp to push it back in? Not done this before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham1984 Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 Might sound stupid but how do you free the piston? Use a g clamp to push it back in? Not done this before. Oh bloody hell that's annoying. I only brought the rears off of Parry last year due to the rear drivers sticking so swapped both of them. If you can get it freed and lubed up then do that but keep an eye on it and touch the wheel often after journeys. If it needs to be replaced get a refurbed set from somewhere like Tcb parts: Off Side Rear Reconditioned Brake Calliper (Supplied on exchange) Supra 3.0i JZA 80 Import N/A 1993 - 1999 Supra Twin Turbo Import (Early) Single Piston Type Part number: CA1805R Our Special Offer Price: £79.00 + vat while stock last Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostman Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 I'll give it a go at the weekend, had a look at tcb has alot of stuff on there! [emoji1] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham1984 Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 I think this is the problem with certain 2nd hand parts, calipers,alternators etc that you just run the risk of it lasting. Especially when you consider the age of the parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostman Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 Yeh I know, just looking how to change the piston in the caliper as this is faaaar cheaper than a whole caliper! [emoji14] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham1984 Posted March 27, 2015 Share Posted March 27, 2015 Yeh I know, just looking how to change the piston in the caliper as this is faaaar cheaper than a whole caliper! [emoji14] I dread to think how much cheaper it is. Stick at it though, you're already making a nice start; even with subtle little corrections. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostman Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 I dread to think how much cheaper it is. Stick at it though, you're already making a nice start; even with subtle little corrections. Yeh it doesn't look particularly difficult. So worth a go, hopefully I can free it off then buy a seal kit and piston. And thanks, need to get the paint looking shiny and finish the bonnet for japfest! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 Try and get a set of pump pliers, these should let you press the piston back in after you have removed the pads. Then either yourself carefully or with someone else in the car push it back out with the brake pedal. Don't go mad as you don't want to pop the piston right out. Lift the edge of the rubber seal that is round the piston and spray duck oil or wd40 down, then keep squeezing it back with the pliers and pushing out with the pedal until you can feel there is less effort to do both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostman Posted March 28, 2015 Author Share Posted March 28, 2015 Try and get a set of pump pliers, these should let you press the piston back in after you have removed the pads. Then either yourself carefully or with someone else in the car push it back out with the brake pedal. Don't go mad as you don't want to pop the piston right out. Lift the edge of the rubber seal that is round the piston and spray duck oil or wd40 down, then keep squeezing it back with the pliers and pushing out with the pedal until you can feel there is less effort to do both. What do you mean by pump pliers? Like pipe grips? http://m.screwfix.com/p/irwin-vice-grip-12-groove-joint-pliers/43518 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted March 28, 2015 Share Posted March 28, 2015 Yes, you don't need them but they make the job so much easier. I used to wedge something in the caliper that left just enough room for a spanner between it and the piston, that I could then lever the piston back. It was fiddly to find the right size wedge and then when you moved the piston a bit with the spanner you'd then need a thicker wedge or spanner and so it goes on! A seized piston can be very stubborn to free, these will make it a lot easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostman Posted March 28, 2015 Author Share Posted March 28, 2015 Oh ok then, Yeh iv got some, also used a small gclamp on my fiesta when changing pads. I'll do it tomorrow and report back! [emoji1] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clay Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 try and get a set of pump pliers, these should let you press the piston back in after you have removed the pads. Then either yourself carefully or with someone else in the car push it back out with the brake pedal. Don't go mad as you don't want to pop the piston right out. Lift the edge of the rubber seal that is round the piston and spray duck oil or wd40 down, then keep squeezing it back with the pliers and pushing out with the pedal until you can feel there is less effort to do both. do knot get wd 40 anywear neer your brake rubbers. The rubber exorbs the stuff and you wont get the piston to moove. It will have the opersit effect, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostman Posted March 29, 2015 Author Share Posted March 29, 2015 do knot get wd 40 anywear neer your brake rubbers. The rubber exorbs the stuff and you wont get the piston to moove. It will have the opersit effect, By brake rubber do you mean the seal on the piston? Any other oil I can use? Didnt manage to do it today it's been raining and hailing! [emoji20] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 You should use lithium grease on brake parts. As clay says, do not use wd40, it will ruin your seals. Also, don't use copper grease, that is even worse! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostman Posted March 29, 2015 Author Share Posted March 29, 2015 You should use lithium grease on brake parts. As clay says, do not use wd40, it will ruin your seals. Also, don't use copper grease, that is even worse! I have some molykote grease designed for o-rings would this be ok? https://www.cromwell.co.uk/MLK7030550P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Quite possibly, but I wouldn't like to say for sure mate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clay Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Red rubber grease was what I was told to youse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 My suggestions are just to get it freed up enough to stop it massively overheating the pads/disc/fluid, before a new calliper or refurb kit is purchased and fitted. Any lubricant and movement will do this to an extent and should allow the op to get a few more days/weeks etc from the calliper. It's not going to be a long term fix if the piston is the cause of the seizure as it will seize again sooner or later, so IMO at that point anything goes re getting it freed off for the short term. I take the point re WD40 swelling seals but this won't be as big an issue short term as the seized piston (usually rust build up) and most people have it on the shelf. Basically you can do whatever it takes in the short term to free the calliper as all the rubber will have to be replaced soon after. If the slider pins are stuck then these can normally be freed fairly easily (sometimes need a little heat) and after a good clean the appropriate grease as suggested above can be used and often these can last for a long time (new rubber boot if required). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clay Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 My suggestions are just to get it freed up enough to stop it massively overheating the pads/disc/fluid, before a new calliper or refurb kit is purchased and fitted. Any lubricant and movement will do this to an extent and should allow the op to get a few more days/weeks etc from the calliper. It's not going to be a long term fix if the piston is the cause of the seizure as it will seize again sooner or later, so IMO at that point anything goes re getting it freed off for the short term. I take the point re WD40 swelling seals but this won't be as big an issue short term as the seized piston (usually rust build up) and most people have it on the shelf. Basically you can do whatever it takes in the short term to free the calliper as all the rubber will have to be replaced soon after. If the slider pins are stuck then these can normally be freed fairly easily (sometimes need a little heat) and after a good clean the appropriate grease as suggested above can be used and often these can last for a long time (new rubber boot if required). If you spay wd40 on the main seal that gose round the piston it will swell up and grip onto it even more. I KNOW THIS BECOUSE IT HAPPEND TO ME. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boostman Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share Posted April 1, 2015 Thanks for all your replies and comments, finally did the caliper today and it's working great! Really glad I waited for the seal and piston kit to arrive as the dust boot had ripped and the square seal wasn't looking good. The piston wasn't too bad I reckon a bit of wet and dry will make it good for a spare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham1984 Posted April 1, 2015 Share Posted April 1, 2015 Thanks for all your replies and comments, finally did the caliper today and it's working great! Really glad I waited for the seal and piston kit to arrive as the dust boot had ripped and the square seal wasn't looking good. The piston wasn't too bad I reckon a bit of wet and dry will make it good for a spare. Good news. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Posted April 2, 2015 Share Posted April 2, 2015 Done both my rears with a refurb kit much easier with the calipers off the car ,working fine now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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