Scott Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 I'm going out to attempt the big one today. Are there any guides available that help out with swapping out the clutch? I've searched around but not been able to find anything in there. If not, any tips for a first time gearbox removal? Any help, as always, would be appreciated Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted March 15, 2015 Author Share Posted March 15, 2015 First question, do I really need to drain the gearbox fluid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Budz86 Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 Nope. Box will come out with fluid still inside. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted March 15, 2015 Author Share Posted March 15, 2015 Any tips for removing the prop without a set of stillsons? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheTurtleshead Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 Any tips for removing the prop without a set of stillsons? Pull the handbrake on! I'd get someone else to help. Big old heavy lump and you really don't want it falling off the jack onto you under the car. Just incase you don't realise, the clutch cover bolts need undoing and the cover sliding back into the bellhousing before the box comes out. It won't all clear the tunnel otherwise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted March 15, 2015 Author Share Posted March 15, 2015 Pull the handbrake on! I'd get someone else to help. Big old heavy lump and you really don't want it falling off the jack onto you under the car. Just incase you don't realise, the clutch cover bolts need undoing and the cover sliding back into the bellhousing before the box comes out. It won't all clear the tunnel otherwise. Understood, but how do I turn the nut without the stillsons? lol Also, it's on 4 axle stands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheTurtleshead Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 (edited) Understood, but how do I turn the nut without the stillsons? lol Which nut mate? Do you mean the 6 sided section in the middle of the prop? If so, do not undo that! Just remove the two bolts from the centre prop bearing carrier(take note the spacers go above not below the mount), the 4 bolts on the front flange, and three of the bolts on one side of the rear rubber doughnut. Edited March 15, 2015 by TheTurtleshead (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted March 15, 2015 Author Share Posted March 15, 2015 Ahh good shout. Just remove the whole prop The manual says to loosen off the prop before the donut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted March 15, 2015 Author Share Posted March 15, 2015 Prop won't come off the damn donut! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 Spray wd40 on where the flange bolts to the doughnut, then use a large flathead screw driver to tap the joint apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Supes Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 It's definitely worth spraying everything in penetrating oil the night before when doing something like this.... just for future reference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted March 15, 2015 Author Share Posted March 15, 2015 Spray wd40 on where the flange bolts to the doughnut, then use a large flathead screw driver to tap the joint apart. I did just that, only without the WD40. Decent screwdriver and a 4lb persuader. It's definitely worth spraying everything in penetrating oil the night before when doing something like this.... just for future reference. I don't have this sort of patience or foresight. When I'm in the mood, things happen.... when I'm not... they don't Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted March 15, 2015 Author Share Posted March 15, 2015 Anyone know the bore size of the pilot bearing? I'm looking to get a blind pull kit, something that would be handy regardless, but I want to make sure the size is covered The el-cheapo kit I'm looking at just now starts at 11mm, which looks about right. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Supes Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 I don't have this sort of patience or foresight. When I'm in the mood, things happen.... when I'm not... they don't Fair enough. I haven't been under mind and had a look, but could you make a couple of wooden wedges and hammer them in (in sequence)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted March 15, 2015 Author Share Posted March 15, 2015 I'm thinking about taking the opportunity of this brief stand-down to get a new clutch release bearing. Can't see the harm in it. Out of curiosity, can I pull the rear main seal without draining the oil? It looks high enough to not be affected by what's the the sump but you never know these things - - - Updated - - - Fair enough. I haven't been under mind and had a look, but could you make a couple of wooden wedges and hammer them in (in sequence)? I managed to get it with the screwdriver and 4LB persuader. Didn't have give my finger an almighty check before hand though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Supes Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 I'm thinking about taking the opportunity of this brief stand-down to get a new clutch release bearing. Can't see the harm in it. Out of curiosity, can I pull the rear main seal without draining the oil? It looks high enough to not be affected by what's the the sump but you never know these things I thought the same on my old 200sx and it dumped oil onto my head. It was a tight squeeze under the car so I couldn't exactly get out of the way in a hurry either. I managed to get it with the screwdriver and 4LB persuader. Didn't have give my finger an almighty check before hand though Nothing worse than a finger check on a cold day! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted March 15, 2015 Author Share Posted March 15, 2015 It's a cracker, looks like a baboon's arse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Supes Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 Ouch! Pmsl! I never understood why Haynes manuals have spanner ratings. They should clearly have pictures of baboons arses so you know how tricky the job in hand is going to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjy Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 Bitch please... Lol My Supra did that to me last year. Could see the bone when you lifted the flap up. Lol A Ka did this to me though... Did you get the box out ok then bud? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted March 15, 2015 Author Share Posted March 15, 2015 Yeah the box is out. I wouldn't say it was "OK" though, it was a complete bitch of a job to do for the first time. I ended up calling my mate over to help me hold up the socket extensions that were required to get the bloody box out lol. Removing the prop was a PITA, removing the box was a PITA and it looks like the pilot bearing is going to be a PITA. It's a good job well done though, I'm glad I took it on. Putting it back together should be a lot easier, other than those 2 ridiculously positioned bolts at the top Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 I would make sure you set the clutch up correctly once in scott, a poorly set up clutch could take out the hole engine , check out Brazil's thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjy Posted March 15, 2015 Share Posted March 15, 2015 it looks like the pilot bearing is going to be a PITA. Old skool tip... Fill the cavity behind the pilot bearing with multipurpose grease until you can't squeeze any more in, get a punch or a drift that's a nice snug fit but slides through the bearing and give it a nice sharp clout with a big hammer. The grease has nowhere to go, pushes the bearing out. I thought (15 years or so ago...) that my boss was pulling my leg. Then he showed me and it actually worked!! Unless you've got a slide hammer with a hook. In which case, use that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted March 15, 2015 Author Share Posted March 15, 2015 Old skool tip... Fill the cavity behind the pilot bearing with multipurpose grease until you can't squeeze any more in, get a punch or a drift that's a nice snug fit but slides through the bearing and give it a nice sharp clout with a big hammer. The grease has nowhere to go, pushes the bearing out. I thought (15 years or so ago...) that my boss was pulling my leg. Then he showed me and it actually worked!! Unless you've got a slide hammer with a hook. In which case, use that. I've ordered up a slide hammer pull set, will see how I get on with that. The grease trick is my next stop. I did try using my slide hanger with hook, it broke the bloody hook. Cheap nasty ebay mince. Although I'm about to replace it with cheap nasty ebay mince Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted March 15, 2015 Author Share Posted March 15, 2015 I would make sure you set the clutch up correctly once in scott, a poorly set up clutch could take out the hole engine , check out Brazil's thread I won't be able to help myself mate. I'll be so paranoid that I'll check it 100 times before bolting it all back together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted March 15, 2015 Author Share Posted March 15, 2015 How do you guys go about rotating the crank to get the cover plate bolted onto the flywheel? I used a screwdriver to gently rotate the engine via the clutch cover, that was the stock 6spd one rather than the RPS one, which I really don't fancy doing that with. I'm wondering if removing the spark plugs and rotating from underneath via the crank would work? What about the cams? Do you think I could rotate it there safely with the plugs removed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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