ballsdeep Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 (edited) Me again.. I can't seem to get to the bottom of this, Iv checked the loom for shorts but seemed to check out ok, even replaced parts to do with ignition, like: Plugs Leads King lead Distributor cap Coil Igniter Ecu will be getting replaced when it arrives. What else could it possibly be? The car starts up as normal but then less than a minute later will just switch off like Iv turned the key, this then shows code14 When it first started cutting out I found this but replacing these bits didn't fix the problem. The only work carried out before the issues was the water pump and cambelt? Any sparkys local to sale / manchester want to come and fix my car Edited April 13, 2015 by ballsdeep (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wile e coyote Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 when they did the cam belt they not damage or put back wrong the star thing and sensor near crank pully sorry if this sounds vague but im sure somebody else will explain better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fitz Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 Changed the Rotor Arm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted March 13, 2015 Author Share Posted March 13, 2015 when they did the cam belt they not damage or put back wrong the star thing and sensor near crank pully sorry if this sounds vague but im sure somebody else will explain better Think this is only on the TT mines na-t Changed the Rotor Arm? Rotor arm was changed a month or 2 before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 I would suspect the trigger coils in the distributor.I have seen them start to play up of late. One "sees" TDC, the other effectively reads cam angle. A new distributor will be heavy money, so a used one is probably the best way to go. A garage with a `scope could check the disi out, before you commit to changing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wile e coyote Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 Ah yes think your right As chris said next step Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 have you thought about the fuel pump / fuel pump ecu ? get a meter on it and see if its getting the correct voltage . do you have a fpr with gauge ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 But that would not create a code 14 error. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 But that would not create a code 14 error. To be honist I didnt even look to see what 14 code was , The fuel pump would cut a car out and its simple to check thats why I surgested it . you your self once told me that the supra is not magical and only needs 3 things to run fuel spark timing and air but thats a given So I was just ticking 1 off the list As if it was runing smooth before it cuts out you could almost eliminate timing unless faulty sensor or signal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted March 13, 2015 Author Share Posted March 13, 2015 Cheers guys I checked with my local garage and they don't have a scope to check the dizzy out either that or they just don't want to do it! So Iv got a number for a auto electician hopefully he will have one? Another Fuel pump ecu has also been tried that as well as putting a constant 12v to it. No joy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 If it needs a distributor I may have a good base unit, no cap or leads though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted March 13, 2015 Author Share Posted March 13, 2015 Thanks Chris il be in touch soon if does need one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
np89 Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 code 14 is igf feedback, basically going back to the ecu to say "yep ignition fired ok!" - so the fault is in that circuit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted March 13, 2015 Author Share Posted March 13, 2015 (edited) Thanks is there any basic tests I can do myself in regards to the igf feed Edited March 13, 2015 by ballsdeep (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
np89 Posted March 13, 2015 Share Posted March 13, 2015 I wouldnt be sure for the non turbo. In a gte that function is contained within the ignitor box and wiring so i guess it would be something similar for the GE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted March 14, 2015 Author Share Posted March 14, 2015 Been out to test the IGT and IGF signal using a multimeter until I can get someone out with a oscilloscope (which won't be until next week now) IGT - 1.3v when cranking (should be 0.5-1.0) IGF - 4.9v with ignition on and stays 4.9v while cranking Going from the tsrm the IGT is not within spec and suggests to try another ecu. If that's the case it will be the second Ecu within the last 6months so something's not right? Il update when I receive my spare ecu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robby a Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 (edited) Hi mate I've got an igniter, coil, distributor with cap and leads. Your welcome to borrow them to see if it cures your problem. I know they all work fine took them off my N/A engine when I went TT Edit. Also have a manual loom and ecu Edited March 14, 2015 by robby a (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted March 14, 2015 Author Share Posted March 14, 2015 That's very good of you mate but I already have 2 of everything. the coils are within spec, the distributor, king lead and rotor arm is brand new and the igniters although I can't test surely both can't be faulty. one of them is from a 60k car I got off Keron! I have another ecu on its way to me too! If this doesn't cure the problem Im handing it over to a auto electician to figure it out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robby a Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 Maybe a broken wire in your loom then. What about your dizzy cap. Have you changed that ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
np89 Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 Just a thought, is your car lowered? Has the wheel maybe made its way through the loom in the wheel arch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted March 14, 2015 Author Share Posted March 14, 2015 Maybe a broken wire in your loom then. What about your dizzy cap. Have you changed that ? Sorry that's what I meant, the dizzy cap is brand new, the distributor will be the last thing I change once it's been checked out with a scope. It could be a break in the wire but Iv done a beep test on every pin on my patch extension and on the IGF and IGT wires? Il double and triple check tomorrow!! Just a thought, is your car lowered? Has the wheel maybe made its way through the loom in the wheel arch? I have bilstein suspension but Im fairly sure its ok, I think you was on the money with the igf signal but I'm getting 4.9v with ignition on and cranking? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
np89 Posted March 14, 2015 Share Posted March 14, 2015 Ive no idea what the required signal is. I think it is actually up near 5V but i dont know. Im just thinking incase the feedback signal is a separate wire in the loom. Cant hurt to look Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted March 17, 2015 Author Share Posted March 17, 2015 Well I swapped out the ecu today and it still won't fire!! There's only the distributor that hasn't been changed now! So auto electrician will be getting a call tomorrow I just hope he is equipped with a scope? I checked the timing but need someone to confirm its ok as I have no idea! When camshaft marks are lined up with timing cover marks the crank lines up with 0 is this right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mellonman Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 Beep testing the wires might not be good enough mate , test them in ohms you would want them all under 0.9 ohms Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ballsdeep Posted March 17, 2015 Author Share Posted March 17, 2015 Beep testing the wires might not be good enough mate , test them in ohms you would want them all under 0.9 ohms Oh right, I'm Far from an expert when it comes to multimeters. il give it ago in the morning! Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.