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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

The time has come to buy me a Supra.


RyanGodley

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  • 1 month later...
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Can Anyone tell me if there's some trick to getting the front spoiler to permanently come down with the engine on under 60mph?? It works fine sat there with just the ignition on, however as soon as I start the engine it goes back up and wont come back down until I'm doing 60mph.

 

After owning the car for a good few weeks now, I'm starting to find minor bits here and there that need attention, I'll list a few below...

 

- Front windscreen seal is loose and flapping a bit, where the glass meets the windscreen panel. Its almost like the plastic panel is warped, if that is the case the Whifbitz carbon panel looks tempting

- Some of the interior dash board panels are delaminating/bubbling, not sure what to do there

- The traction Control fuse has been totally removed from the engine bay, ha

- I split a bypass fitting on the radiator hose (due to it leaking) and found some corrosion within the hose, again I found a nice aluminium rad and compact chrome fan kit on Whifbitz, which if my rad is buggered, I think ill go for. Otherwise a good flush out is in order.

 

For 22 years old I'm surprised the list isn't endless, says a lot for the build quality.

Cant wait to get stuck in and start replacing all these faulty bits and bobs. Just need some money first ha

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Hi Ryan

 

The Active Spoiler is set to do just that but you can buy an override switch that allows you to put it up and down when you want. AndrewOw on here makes and supplies them - well worth it in my opinion.

 

The Traction fuse may not have been there from day one - I know there's a spare spot for one but that's the same on mine. The stock TC is pretty pants anyway - just turn it off - standard OP for most owners!

 

Interior dash must have been painted or covered with something at some point then - surprised to hear it's bubbling. A fresh set is easily found on here - Keron is a good first port of call.

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Hi Ryan

 

The Active Spoiler is set to do just that but you can buy an override switch that allows you to put it up and down when you want. AndrewOw on here makes and supplies them - well worth it in my opinion.

 

The Traction fuse may not have been there from day one - I know there's a spare spot for one but that's the same on mine. The stock TC is pretty pants anyway - just turn it off - standard OP for most owners!

 

Interior dash must have been painted or covered with something at some point then - surprised to hear it's bubbling. A fresh set is easily found on here - Keron is a good first port of call.

 

Ah I see, that's exactly what I need ill have to find AndrewOw and send him an order, thanks for that ellis.

 

Yes I heard from a few guys that the TC is a bit pants, however I've yet to even try it myself! I only found out it had no fuse because I pulled up in a car park one day tried turning TC off using the button and nothing happened. Usually you get the little ! in a triangle on the dash but none of that.

 

The interior is totally stock no paint, its actually the leather on the dash that surrounds the front windscreen blower vents, its all come away. I thought maybe if it's been garaged its whole life in Japan, then it comes to England to sit on a driveway, maybe the sun has dried it out? Same with the front windscreen seal possibly?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Soo, I got my old man to take the sup over to a local Jap car garage (JD Modified) to use their rolling road.

My dad mentioned 2 things before they got going;

 

1. We think its running a bit lean. As when we removed + changed the original spark plugs they looked quite pale/white-ish

2. The engine light randomly flashes every now and then under hard acceleration

 

After hearing this the bloke carried out a days worth of 'testing' and came back and said he thinks the flashing engine light is detecting detonation.

He didn't carry out a compression test, apparently he just went straight in for a leak down test.

 

What do you guys think about having a 50% leak down test on one of my 6 cylinders?

Bearing in mind the car still feels great to drive, has not stumbled once and sounds awesome.

 

Could it just be a case of the cooler air we have over here in UK compared to the hot air or Japan?

The car has an Apexi Power FC. Would a re-map cure the lean running? Or a better quality ecu?

 

Any advise would be much appreciated.

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Usually under hard acceleration the blinking ! light is low brake fluid, it will be sloshing about and the sensor is very sensitive, top it up even if it looks full and see how you go.

 

The other possibility is fuel, if you've changed the boost level, 1bar for 3 seconds give fuel cut, although it's quite a savage cut in power, you'd know about it, not just a flashing light, however id expect this was removed when the FC was mapped.

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Usually under hard acceleration the blinking ! light is low brake fluid, it will be sloshing about and the sensor is very sensitive, top it up even if it looks full and see how you go.

 

The other possibility is fuel, if you've changed the boost level, 1bar for 3 seconds give fuel cut, although it's quite a savage cut in power, you'd know about it, not just a flashing light, however id expect this was removed when the FC was mapped.

 

Hmm that's interesting, but Its not the ! light that's blinking, its the engine light to the right of the steering wheel.

It's running 1 bar boost however there is no 'noticeable' fuel cut when the light blinks, nothing happens, just smooth acceleration?

 

The cars going back to Torque GT tomorrow as they didn't trust the other mechanics diagnosis and want to take a look themselves.

 

We've found out the car still has both cats installed. Will running 1 bar boost with both cats not be a bit restrictive?

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