Adjustable Redline advice?

[ripped_fear]

Hi everyone bit of a weird one.

 

Basically I have recently fitted a Mines ECU to the old girl and along with a few changes one is to move the redline another 2k, meaning she has the ability to rev very high.

 

Now I fitted this ECU for a couple of reasons but one of them was not the redline. So my question is, is there a way I can have an adjustable red line, meaning at a turn of a switch I could drop the limiter back down to OEM level?

 

I know Such items like the Bee-R's exists but people always talk very negativity towards them on here. I do not want to cause the car any harm or put any cheap junk on the car, just have the ability to restore the limiter back to OEM at a turn of a switch. Would a bee-R be a safe option to just move the limiter when desired.

 

Any help appreciated

 

Thanks

 

Jake

Edited February 21, 2015 by ripped_fear (see edit history)

[j_jza80]

The car should be fine with the new rev limit, as its still lower than stock vvti and that doesn't have any upgraded parts IIRC.

 

You don't have to reach the rev limit before changing gear btw...

[ripped_fear]

The car should be fine with the new rev limit, as its still lower than stock vvti and that doesn't have any upgraded parts IIRC.

 

You don't have to reach the rev limit before changing gear btw...

 

Really the vvti's rev that much higher?! I never knew that. However my car is an NA so does have higher compression and different pistons iirc? Please correct me if wrong.

 

No I know I don't have to drive to the redline, in fact I very rarely do.

 

Is somthing I would like to re-instate though, few reasons but one its not something Im really going to use.

[Graham1984]

Beware that some of the Mines had an error where the redline wasn't set at 8k ish revs, but actually 80k revs

 

You will change gear way before then anyway as the powerband is dropping off in the high 7's anyway, plus as j_jza80 says "Change gear before the redline"

 

He's right btw.

[j_jza80]

Ignore me, I thought you meant an extra 250 rpm. 2500rpm is a huge difference, I'd revert to a stock ECU.

[j_jza80]

So is your redline somewhere around 9250rpm??

[Graham1984]

So is your redline somewhere around 9250rpm??

 

I find it weird why they would have that. Jake are you sure? I'm guessing it was a typo mate.

[ripped_fear]

Stock is 6k iirc? It raises it to 8k. Please bare in mind my car is an NA not a TT if that makes any difference.

 

What I would like to do is set the new redline to around 7kish.

 

I have no intention in revving the hell out of it, but would like the limiter set even so.

[ripped_fear]

Sorry just realised stock is 7k my bad.

[j_jza80]

Seems unlikely to me too, when revving any inbuilt 2JZ to that level will kill it quickly. The whole point in those plug and play ECU's was to work with barely modified cars.

[Graham1984]

8k revs is okay, but like I said previously the power is dropping by that point anyway. Change gear at 7k, it sounds good at that point I've heard

[Morzy2k5]

Just going to throw a spanner in the works here...

I have a toms tec2 ecu fitted to my N/A and I currently have no Rev limiter at all,I was in the same boat as you,but abit worse as my car doesn't have a Rev limiter, once I'd fitted the ecu I went out for a drive and I slowly took the engine to 8.5k RPM

I have ended up getting a bee R limiter and wiring that in so my

Rev limit is now at 7.5k RPM! Also,I had my car on tuning developments rolling road and it still made power at 7.5-8k RPM...granted it was not increasing but it wasn't falling off like normal it was flat.and it also runs very rich about 11.1 - 10.5.1 afr from 5k rpm and upwards.

[ripped_fear]

I decided to get a bee*R just to use as a limiter, Not interested in using it for anything stupid but will serve the purpose I have purchased it for

[Chris Wilson]

You can probably find aftermarket rev limiters that may work. You could always use that nice big rev counter and your right foot, that costs nothing. Can't see the point taking an NA over 6K anyway, the breathing is all pretty much done by then unless it has wild mods like cams and stuff.

[ripped_fear]

You can probably find aftermarket rev limiters that may work. You could always use that nice big rev counter and your right foot, that costs nothing. Can't see the point taking an NA over 6K anyway, the breathing is all pretty much done by then unless it has wild mods like cams and stuff.

 

Yeah Its not like I drive my car to the redline anyway, Its just piece of mind really, plus you know if the car goes into a garage etc they cant bounce it off a red line. I can lower it down.

[mattdavies]

I have bought a Mines ECU for my TT Auto, Now I am aware that the auto may change before 8K rpm but if in Manual mode it might not.

 

Now although a Bee-R is an option I have also seen a Omex unit. This requires a Coil + and a Coil - plus a Ground, How would this wire in to the Stock ECU wiring ?

 

I have found this information regarding the Bee-R just for reference :

 

Product Description Note:

Bee-R Ignition Misfiring System Rev Limiter. This item is designed to prevent over revving by cutting ignition and thus producing an open flame at the exhaust. Please note that the flame will not be produced with vehicles still using the OEM catalytic and those using a silencer at the tip of your aftermarket muffler.

Product Spec Note:

The 3 dial knobs on the head unit will do the following adjustments:

Red Knob (REV 1):

This will set the Rev Limiter

16 adjustment from 0~F. 0=2500rpm with an increase in 500rpm for each additional turn in the knob.

 

White Knob (REV 2):

The signal for this knob is set while the E-BRAKE is engaged.

 

Yellow Knob (Gain):

This knob will increase or decrease the impact of the flame/sound from the exhaust. With the setting as zero the item will be turned off and will increase as the knob dial is set.

 

For use with all 12v rotary, 4 and 6 cylinder engines. (No V8 application)

 

 

Installing The Darn Thing:

Make sure your Bee*Racing Rev Limiter is a "Type B" model and not any other type model. "Type B" model is universal so it can be use on any MFG car base on setup. "Type H" is for Honda specific models. I believe newer models might be "Type B" and "Type H" combo unit.

 

Base on the Bee*Racing Rev Limiter installation manual itself. The following pin and color wire:

Red = E10A Pin31 [40 pin connector, this is the +B ECM main relay pin]

Black = Chasis ground

Green = E9B Pin27 [80 pin connector, this is the NE crank position sensor pin]

Yellow = E9B Pin58 [80 pin connector, this is the IGF ignitor pin]

White = E Brake/Hand Brake

NOTE:

White - Activates "REV2" option, either when white wire is grounded or can be used as launch control when spliced into handbrake wire.

 

 

For The Additional Wire LOOPS:

Brown = For Rotary Engine [Cut if you are setting up for Rotary]

Grey = For 4Cyl Engine [Cut if you are setting up for 4Cyl]

NOTE: For 6Cyl Engine you DO NOT have to cut any wire with the exception of the White wire but that is to your discretion.

White = For launch control [Cut if you DO NOT WANT to use launch control]

NOTE: White loop wire is found on newer Bee*R Rev Limiter. Remember to insulate both ends of the wire after cutting.

 

 

Function NOTES:

REV1 is the normal rev limit and REV2 is the limit when Handbrake/switch is engaged.

GAIN sets the frequency and length of cut. the lower the number the quicker the cut. e.g. 1 = bababababa F= BANG!!!......BANG!!!...... IF you set the GAIN to 0 the limiter wil not function.

Most limiters are Type B. this means that the variable limit is:

 

0 2500

1 3000

2 3500

3 4000

4 4500

5 5000

6 5500

7 6000

8 6500

9 7000

A 7500

B 8000

C 8500

D 9000

E 9500

F 10000

 

Start-up and Test:

Start vehicle, turn the "GAIN" dial on Bee*R unit to "1", if vehicle stalls, the Yellow and Green wires from the Bee*R unit are reversed, switch green wire to where yellow is and yellow wire to where the green was, vehicle should then start.

TEST UNIT LIKE SO: Set Bee*R Limiter "REV 1" to #2 and the "GAIN" to #9, hit the throttle for 3 seconds, vehicle will hit and bounce off the Bee*R's set limit.

 

So that is it in a nutshell. Once you have verify it is working set your "Rev 1" knob to the factory limit and set your "Gain" knob at the same limit or higher. Hope that help...I must be bored ahaha.

[T2 MSW]

But why go to all this trouble when nobody actually knows what the Mines ECU does in the first place?

[Mike2JZ]

But why go to all this trouble when nobody actually knows what the Mines ECU does in the first place?

 

What else are us N/A guys gonna do to spice things up

[Graham1984]

But why go to all this trouble when nobody actually knows what the Mines ECU does in the first place?

 

I would gladly wager money that it is just a generic improvement over a stock Na ecu. I had one for a few years and you really have nothing to worry about unless you are completely deaf and simple.

[T2 MSW]

What else are us N/A guys gonna do to spice things up

 

Haha Very true.

 

But the cost of an ECU that appears to remove the rev limit (not increase it by 500 revs as mines say) seems a risk I would not take with my own car.

 

Plus the cost of the ECU is part way to a decent version of the supra, or a single turbo conversion

[T2 MSW]

I would gladly wager money that it is just a generic improvement over a stock Na ecu. I had one for a few years and you really have nothing to worry about unless you are completely deaf and simple.

 

Ive seen it happen with my own eyes, A dyno operator that was told it had no rev limit 2 minutes before it was registering over 8k on the dyno!!

 

Ive also been in my own car when I've dropped the back end and bounced hard off the rev limit, if that limit was not there it would be valves that are bouncing!