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SRD to the rescue...!


Brazil

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I'm also running around 8 bar on cold start.

Just changed my gauge, will check again in two weeks time if it reads the same.

 

 

Where is the pressure gauge take off?

 

2JZ-GTE Workshop Manual Oil Pressure specs:-

 

With engine at normal operating temperature, oil pressure

should be at least 7.1 psi (.5 kg/cm ) at idle and approximately 47-84

psi (3.3-5.9 kg/cm ) at 3000 RPM.

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In an idealised lubrication system, which some modern engines in development are approaching, the oil pressure control valve would be able to flow enough oil to maintain just enough pressure to retain a hydrostatic pressure in the bearing housings. Any more is wasteful of engine power and fuel, and generates heat. The problem with the simple spring loaded bypass valve is it can't both accommodate viscous cold oil, and thin hot oil. Make it big enough to open to a sufficient area to flow the cold oil, and it's regulation of hot oil is poor to suspect. Solenoid controlled relief valves are in development, and these can control oil pressure far better, under ECU and thermostatic control.

 

 

Taking a pressure reading from other than the stock oil pressure switch gallery may well give very varying figures. sandwich plate sensors may well be taking the pressure pre the restriction of the oil filter element, and will of course show higher figures than post the filter, at the oil gallery in the block. AFAIK all manufacturers quote a gallery oil pressure figure.

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Not quite sure why this has turned into an oil pressure discussion? thought it was down to mechanical overpressure of the crank thrust bearings, due to oil film being squeezed out from the pressure from a heavy duty clutch needing to be kept pressed on start up?

Where does oil overpressure come into it?

 

While I agree 150psi is rather high, although I have often seen 100-120 cold start, I fail to see any link to high oil pressure, oil pressure is going to depend on a lot of factors, like oil grade, oil pressure relief spring value, take of point measurement, and whether there is any oil cooler/remote filter head fitted.

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Not quite sure why this has turned into an oil pressure discussion? thought it was down to mechanical overpressure of the crank thrust bearings, due to oil film being squeezed out from the pressure from a heavy duty clutch needing to be kept pressed on start up?

Where does oil overpressure come into it?

 

While I agree 150psi is rather high, although I have often seen 100-120 cold start, I fail to see any link to high oil pressure, oil pressure is going to depend on a lot of factors, like oil grade, oil pressure relief spring value, take of point measurement, and whether there is any oil cooler/remote filter head fitted.

 

The discussion got to talking about oil pressure because since I received the new engine the fist start we only saw 3.5 bar pressure; I was not using oil cooler till we completed run in of new motor.

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Ok rebuild number 3 undergoing at new shop; offering guarantee on labor and parts till the new engine is run in.

 

Is it in Portugal? are you really wanting to risk that again? or are you sending it to SRD.

 

Are you going to use the same engine? which has caused all the issues? id be using a new block.

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I used a new block after the first engine failed, I am going to strip this block and I hope to be able to use it!

 

The mechanic that is doing the work rebuilt my e36 bmw and did a great job; they work quickly enough too I am going to risk because I really like to have somebody that knows the car locally!

 

Also it's a closed deal for labor of 1800 euros the turbo rebuild and machine work will be separate 3rd party

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What exactly is a non-specialist? Do you mean a guy that's never rebuilt an engine or one that's not doing Supra's day in day out?? As if the 2JZ is some mythical engine that works differently from the others?! They all have manuals, parts and tolerances. Follow the guidelines and you should be golden.

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As if the 2JZ is some mythical engine that works differently from the others?! They all have manuals, parts and tolerances. Follow the guidelines and you should be golden.

 

This

 

An engine is an engine. As long as it's done properly, there's no reason why it won't be fine

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What exactly is a non-specialist? Do you mean a guy that's never rebuilt an engine or one that's not doing Supra's day in day out?? As if the 2JZ is some mythical engine that works differently from the others?! They all have manuals, parts and tolerances. Follow the guidelines and you should be golden.

 

And following that logic, look where it has landed the poor guy. By definition, sure any mechanic should be able to do it, but I would only ever trust whatever car I had, with a specialist with the aim to reduce risk.

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