Mk4Gaz Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 I haven't finished installing my oil pressure gauge sensor on my supra yet, but my mr2 used to have around 6 bar oil pressure on cold start, and around 1.5 bar on hot idle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 I'm also running around 8 bar on cold start. Just changed my gauge, will check again in two weeks time if it reads the same. Where is the pressure gauge take off? 2JZ-GTE Workshop Manual Oil Pressure specs:- With engine at normal operating temperature, oil pressure should be at least 7.1 psi (.5 kg/cm ) at idle and approximately 47-84 psi (3.3-5.9 kg/cm ) at 3000 RPM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 That's at normal operating temperature though, not cold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 In an idealised lubrication system, which some modern engines in development are approaching, the oil pressure control valve would be able to flow enough oil to maintain just enough pressure to retain a hydrostatic pressure in the bearing housings. Any more is wasteful of engine power and fuel, and generates heat. The problem with the simple spring loaded bypass valve is it can't both accommodate viscous cold oil, and thin hot oil. Make it big enough to open to a sufficient area to flow the cold oil, and it's regulation of hot oil is poor to suspect. Solenoid controlled relief valves are in development, and these can control oil pressure far better, under ECU and thermostatic control. Taking a pressure reading from other than the stock oil pressure switch gallery may well give very varying figures. sandwich plate sensors may well be taking the pressure pre the restriction of the oil filter element, and will of course show higher figures than post the filter, at the oil gallery in the block. AFAIK all manufacturers quote a gallery oil pressure figure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Not quite sure why this has turned into an oil pressure discussion? thought it was down to mechanical overpressure of the crank thrust bearings, due to oil film being squeezed out from the pressure from a heavy duty clutch needing to be kept pressed on start up? Where does oil overpressure come into it? While I agree 150psi is rather high, although I have often seen 100-120 cold start, I fail to see any link to high oil pressure, oil pressure is going to depend on a lot of factors, like oil grade, oil pressure relief spring value, take of point measurement, and whether there is any oil cooler/remote filter head fitted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 4, 2015 Share Posted February 4, 2015 Actually, I am not sure how this has migrated to what start up oil pressure people see either Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brazil Posted February 4, 2015 Author Share Posted February 4, 2015 How many hours would you say a full engine rebuild would cost including fitting hand over car with everything running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brazil Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 Pump; anybody can tell how much in labor in specific hours it would cost to rebuild the engine to point of handing key with car running? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brazil Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 Not quite sure why this has turned into an oil pressure discussion? thought it was down to mechanical overpressure of the crank thrust bearings, due to oil film being squeezed out from the pressure from a heavy duty clutch needing to be kept pressed on start up? Where does oil overpressure come into it? While I agree 150psi is rather high, although I have often seen 100-120 cold start, I fail to see any link to high oil pressure, oil pressure is going to depend on a lot of factors, like oil grade, oil pressure relief spring value, take of point measurement, and whether there is any oil cooler/remote filter head fitted. The discussion got to talking about oil pressure because since I received the new engine the fist start we only saw 3.5 bar pressure; I was not using oil cooler till we completed run in of new motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brazil Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 Ok rebuild number 3 undergoing at new shop; offering guarantee on labor and parts till the new engine is run in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Nice one Luiz...glad you've found a way forward. The modifying world can be painful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Ok rebuild number 3 undergoing at new shop; offering guarantee on labor and parts till the new engine is run in. Is it in Portugal? are you really wanting to risk that again? or are you sending it to SRD. Are you going to use the same engine? which has caused all the issues? id be using a new block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheTurtleshead Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Is it in Portugal? are you really wanting to risk that again? or are you sending it to SRD. Seconded, what's the place called? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brazil Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 I used a new block after the first engine failed, I am going to strip this block and I hope to be able to use it! The mechanic that is doing the work rebuilt my e36 bmw and did a great job; they work quickly enough too I am going to risk because I really like to have somebody that knows the car locally! Also it's a closed deal for labor of 1800 euros the turbo rebuild and machine work will be separate 3rd party Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Turbo rebuild??? What's the matter with the turbo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brazil Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 Turbo rebuild??? What's the matter with the turbo? Don't want to risk any contamination Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_jza80 Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 The third time's the charm. I'm glad you've found the motivation to keep going, god knows I'd have given up by now. I'm sure you've done your homework on this new company. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brazil Posted February 5, 2015 Author Share Posted February 5, 2015 o really hope we get it this time either way I won't be paying till I know the car is good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 I admire your determination matey, I really hope it works out for you this time. Best of luck with it Funnily enough, I was going to suggest a rough labour cost of circa £1500 to remove, rebuild, and refit - so, 1800 euros is about right! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Don't want to risk any contamination OK, you have a point, better to have it checked out. Have you found out if it has an oil restrictor in the feed though? Without one you will see low oil pressure as a -4 hose will bleed a LOT of pressure off, and ball bearing turbos don't need, nor want a lot of oil flow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 As Chris says, about 1 bar oil pressure is sufficient for a bb turbo. It's definitely important to fit the correct size restrictor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 Why risk it with a non specialist yet again? I know it would be a bitch to get the car sent to the UK, but at least you can rest assured that it will be done properly. Once setup right, you can get any local garage to perform simple maintenance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 What exactly is a non-specialist? Do you mean a guy that's never rebuilt an engine or one that's not doing Supra's day in day out?? As if the 2JZ is some mythical engine that works differently from the others?! They all have manuals, parts and tolerances. Follow the guidelines and you should be golden. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 As if the 2JZ is some mythical engine that works differently from the others?! They all have manuals, parts and tolerances. Follow the guidelines and you should be golden. This An engine is an engine. As long as it's done properly, there's no reason why it won't be fine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted February 5, 2015 Share Posted February 5, 2015 What exactly is a non-specialist? Do you mean a guy that's never rebuilt an engine or one that's not doing Supra's day in day out?? As if the 2JZ is some mythical engine that works differently from the others?! They all have manuals, parts and tolerances. Follow the guidelines and you should be golden. And following that logic, look where it has landed the poor guy. By definition, sure any mechanic should be able to do it, but I would only ever trust whatever car I had, with a specialist with the aim to reduce risk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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