ripped_fear Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 Hi all. Looking for a little help wiring up a sub and amp I have, as ICE is beyond me. So I bought all this ages ago and have just had it sat around, but today I finally started making the sub box house it. I have a Xplode 1000 watt amp- it has these connections on the back- Now the Sub I have is the following spec- It has 4 fuses on the back and 8 connections, 4 each side. Anyone be able to walk me though how to wire it together? I have purchased a generic wiring kit too. Thanks In advance. Jake Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean2kuk Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 I wired up my own when I bought a carbon boot box of Chris..... I also know very little about it but I managed it......I'm trying to think how can I explain it before some ice pro tells me to shut up...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripped_fear Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 I was going to take a picture of the connections on the sub and amp and lable them all. Would that help? the more idiot proof the better haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripped_fear Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 Maybe this will help.- If anyone can say which letter number goes to which and what type of wire to be using. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 I take it thats the same amplifier - https://www.sony-europe.com/support/en/content/cnt-man/XM-2165GTX/list I'm not sure there's a way to wire a 4 ohm dual voice coil sub to a 4 ohm amp without melting something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hitbox Junkie Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 I was going to take a picture of the connections on the sub and amp and lable them all. Would that help? the more idiot proof the better haha. Would be good to do this, are they not labeled power - + and the blue one so it turns off with the head unit and not drains the battery, RR(Rear Right) RL(rear left) FR(front Right) FL(front left)? They are usually dot to dot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean2kuk Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 I bought the vibe wiring kit...... Thick red one is the power supply so from battery I fed it through firewall...under carpet to my boot.......and into the amp Then the other connector which has 2 connections at either end...(can't remember name for it) went from my head unit into the amp.. Also a thin blue one (remote wire) also from head unit to my amp.... Sorry but this description is totally naff but I'm a novice at audio..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripped_fear Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 I take it thats the same amplifier - https://www.sony-europe.com/support/en/content/cnt-man/XM-2165GTX/list I'm not sure there's a way to wire a 4 ohm dual voice coil sub to a 4 ohm amp without melting something. Looks like the same one, i bought it second hand on here from a memeber who told me it would work with my sub when i gave him the spec ? Was a long time ago now though, 2 years or so. Would be good to do this, are they not labeled power - + and the blue one so it turns off with the head unit and not drains the battery, RR(Rear Right) RL(rear left) FR(front Right) FL(front left)? They are usually dot to dot. Are you talking about the sub or amp? The sub iss just 4 reds and 4 whites no - or + signs I bought the vibe wiring kit...... Thick red one is the power supply so from battery I fed it through firewall...under carpet to my boot.......and into the amp Then the other connector which has 2 connections at either end...(can't remember name for it) went from my head unit into the amp.. Also a thin blue one (remote wire) also from head unit to my amp.... Sounds like I have a similar kit to you. The issue is i have many more things to plug in than i do wires?? Sorry but this description is totally naff but I'm a novice at audio..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 It will work yes but for how long I couldn't tell you. A lot of people don't know mate. You have to get the impedance right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripped_fear Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 It will work yes but for how long I couldn't tell you. A lot of people don't know mate. You have to get the impedance right. On a tight budget then what amp would be better suited? or what other shallow mount sub would be suitable? I hate audio lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaan W Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 I haven't got a clue to be honest mate. I would use this calculator to work out impedance for a start for that particular speaker. http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurationsm.asp?Q=1&I=42#results Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 That combination of amp and speaker are really unsuitable to make the most of what you have. The amp is no good at bridging for 2 ohms, if you go with 8 ohms you're not going to get the pop you need for a shallow speaker. The only other option you have with the setup is to run the coils individually through each channel. This also isn't ideal as any slight difference in the output will lead to distortion. It should be minimal, but it's definitely not ideal. If you want some help wiring it up as it is then take your pick with what setup you want to go with. 2 ohms is the ideal, but your amp isn't rated for it so you would be risking overheating the amp when the volume is cranked up. 4 ohm individual coil inputs is the alternative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripped_fear Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 That combination of amp and speaker are really unsuitable to make the most of what you have. The amp is no good at bridging for 2 ohms, if you go with 8 ohms you're not going to get the pop you need for a shallow speaker. The only other option you have with the setup is to run the coils individually through each channel. This also isn't ideal as any slight difference in the output will lead to distortion. It should be minimal, but it's definitely not ideal. If you want some help wiring it up as it is then take your pick with what setup you want to go with. 2 ohms is the ideal, but your amp isn't rated for it so you would be risking overheating the amp when the volume is cranked up. 4 ohm individual coil inputs is the alternative. What would you suggest? a new amp? if so any suggestions? I don't want to be risking anything but equally I hate loud music these days and am just looking to add a bit of bass as I fell my speakers are lacking it. If I'm able to wire it up as is and create a little better noise then i would give it a go. No idea which of the above routes would be best though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 What's the model code on the amp? Just to make sure it can't do 2ohms when bridged. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 I would try this first as this is how it should be set up. If you had a DVC sub with 2ohms per coil it would be perfect, the fact that it's 4ohms per coil just means you'll get less power. Assumptions (it's hard to tell properly): A1 = + A2 = - A3 = - A4 = + A1(AMP) to R2(SUB) R1(SUB) to W2(SUB) W1(SUB) to R3(SUB) R4(SUB) to W3(SUB) W4(SUB) to A3(AMP) A5 - Blue remote wire from back of the stereo A6 - Direct heavy duty fused cable to battery. A7 - Ground, bolted using eyelet to something WELL grounded in the boot. B1 - 1st Pre-Out on back of headunit. C1 - 2nd Pre-Out on back of headunit. A2, A4, B2, C2 are unused. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripped_fear Posted January 20, 2015 Author Share Posted January 20, 2015 Thanks Scott, thats exactly what i needed, I shall continue with the box im building and report back once its wired in. J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 No worries, best of luck with it. Try to make the box the correct volume for the sub as you want to make as much use of the power as you can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attero Posted January 26, 2015 Share Posted January 26, 2015 Getting the ICE sorted for Dragonball? Awesome. I'll put some tooonns together for the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripped_fear Posted January 26, 2015 Author Share Posted January 26, 2015 Thats the plan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripped_fear Posted March 23, 2015 Author Share Posted March 23, 2015 Just started this finally as the box is ready to go pretty much. So going back to your advice scott- 1- A1(AMP) to R2(SUB) 2- R1(SUB) to W2(SUB) 3- W1(SUB) to R3(SUB) 4- R4(SUB) to W3(SUB) 5- W4(SUB) to A3(AMP) A5 - Blue remote wire from back of the stereo A6 - Direct heavy duty fused cable to battery. Routed and ready to go A7 - Ground, bolted using eyelet to something WELL grounded in the boot. Routed and ready to go B1 - 1st Pre-Out on back of headunit. Routed and ready to go C1 - 2nd Pre-Out on back of headunit. Routed and ready to go So Can anyone recommend what to buy for the remaining wiring, the only other bits I got in my wiring kit was speaker wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripped_fear Posted March 23, 2015 Author Share Posted March 23, 2015 EDIT - can i use speaker wire? Or maybe some thicker guage electrical wire? I have some wire I was going to use for a for light switch and loads of speaker wire. what i just bought is completly wrong lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 Speaker wire is what you need to use. Some reasonable gauge stuff for subs though, not thin flimsy stuff. The remote wire can be any thin gauge wire, I always go with blue. Around 16awg is the recommendation. This comes off the back of your stereo "remote" lead (usually blue too). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripped_fear Posted March 23, 2015 Author Share Posted March 23, 2015 Brilliant thanks mate. Is there a difference between speaker wire and normal wire. I mocked up the bits in some think gauge stuff. Bit that was bought for the fog light. If that's no good do you have a link to an appropriate item Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted March 23, 2015 Share Posted March 23, 2015 I usually go with something like this.... http://www.caraudiodirect.co.uk/accessories/speaker-wires/autoleads-g9-s240-subwoofer-speaker-cable Speaker wire is thin strands with low O2. Makes for better conduction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripped_fear Posted March 23, 2015 Author Share Posted March 23, 2015 Ok cheers do you think somehwere like halfords would stock that? need to return some bits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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