Jump to content
The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Jack's S366 TT6 Build


JackyBoi

Recommended Posts

Just read all this, seems you have had a lucky escape. This is the main reason I put knock, oil pressure, oil temp and fuel pressure sensors in mine that feed to the Syvecs and then I output all those readings to my Dash2 via the CAN bus.

 

One of my jobs to do is work out whats going on with the oil temp sensor as the output on the dash always reads 52 degrees so its obviously not working.

 

I would hope that Ryan has set the failsafes on my ECU but its one of the things I would like to check.

 

Your in good hands with Darren looking after the car though :)

 

Until I have the available funds for all those sensors to be connected to a toucan I'll just be sticking with a mechanical oil pressure gauge.

 

I agree with JamieP and would not fiddle with the head gasket if the top end tests AOK.

 

Yup, I'm gonna leave it for now

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 755
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Thanks mate might just leave the engine in for now save myself a bit of money and just replace everything that is accessible. Although are you able to access the RMS with the engine in?

 

Gearbox out to do RMS, again I wouldn't bother, Wire an oil pressure sensor into the syvecs.

 

Just read all this, seems you have had a lucky escape. This is the main reason I put knock, oil pressure, oil temp and fuel pressure sensors in mine that feed to the Syvecs and then I output all those readings to my Dash2 via the CAN bus.

 

One of my jobs to do is work out whats going on with the oil temp sensor as the output on the dash always reads 52 degrees so its obviously not working.

 

I would hope that Ryan has set the failsafes on my ECU but its one of the things I would like to check.

 

Your in good hands with Darren looking after the car though :)

 

You can set all the warnings on your toucan Mike.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, as Jamie and Chris have suggested, now that the engine is staying in, I wouldn't touch the gasket. It was only an engine out suggestion. :)

 

I have bought myself some fancy Stack gauges, one of which monitors oil pressure, and has a low/high pressure warning system which activates an alarm, but also a 12v output. I'm going to use this output to control a relay on the fuel pump, shutting the engine down. Similar to what your Syvecs will do.

 

It wasn't cheap, but MUCH cheaper than an engine rebuild :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

You can set all the warnings on your toucan Mike.

 

Don't have a Toucan mate only the Dash2 which does warnings as well but they are not feed from the ECU. I just need to spend sometime looking into the config on the ECU and the oil temp sensor.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, as Jamie and Chris have suggested, now that the engine is staying in, I wouldn't touch the gasket. It was only an engine out suggestion. :)

 

I have bought myself some fancy Stack gauges, one of which monitors oil pressure, and has a low/high pressure warning system which activates an alarm, but also a 12v output. I'm going to use this output to control a relay on the fuel pump, shutting the engine down. Similar to what your Syvecs will do.

 

It wasn't cheap, but MUCH cheaper than an engine rebuild :D

 

Nice job, I bet it feels nicer driving when you know exactly what's going on i.e oil pressure, fuel pressure etc :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, as Jamie and Chris have suggested, now that the engine is staying in, I wouldn't touch the gasket. It was only an engine out suggestion. :)

 

I have bought myself some fancy Stack gauges, one of which monitors oil pressure, and has a low/high pressure warning system which activates an alarm, but also a 12v output. I'm going to use this output to control a relay on the fuel pump, shutting the engine down. Similar to what your Syvecs will do.

 

It wasn't cheap, but MUCH cheaper than an engine rebuild :D

 

I have had a Stack wideband AFR gauge sat in my lounge for over a year. I still don't know whether to fit it or not... or where the hell it would go, even if I wanted to fit it. Gauges don't really fit in with my OE look.

 

Great news, BTW JackyBoi. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have had a Stack wideband AFR gauge sat in my lounge for over a year. I still don't know whether to fit it or not... or where the hell it would go, even if I wanted to fit it. Gauges don't really fit in with my OE look.

 

Great news, BTW JackyBoi. :)

 

Thanks buddy :)

 

 

 

Not much of an update as such, but it looks like soon enough I may be able to get total ownership over this car as my brother might be getting himself an R34 in the not-so-far future... Happy days :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today my mechanic found the following:

 

1 m6 bolt missing from water pump

1 m6 bolt 2/3rds partially unscrewed behind cambelt tensioner pulley

Loose AN fitting on the back of the water pump which feeds to turbo - caused the car to lose all of its water

 

Gonna get these rectified today and also hopefully the new seal will be going in, along with the removal of the oil pump to check out its condition :thumbs:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Engine's all stripped down

 

image

 

Turns out the crank seal was still in tact but was letting a load of oil out from the left hand side

 

image

 

The loose AN fitting which caused loss of water

 

image

 

Checking the torque on all the head studs

 

image

 

And also ripped off those horrid Veilside skirts

 

image

 

Crank seal, timing belt, cam seals and some huge 16mm braided lines to replace the 8mm breathers currently on will all be going on this week. Also looking at getting a 16 row oil cooler as well as an oil pressure/temp gauge. If all goes well, I'll be back on the road by the weekend which will give me a chance to start making a video I've been waiting to make for you guys :D ;) stay tuned!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like the crank damper has been moving and fretting on the nose of the crank. I'd fit a new one, with a new front key, and make sure it's properly torqued up. Hopefully its not worn the crank nose too much, looks like you might get away with it!

 

:blink:

 

Sorry I'm no mechanic; fit a new crank damper and front key? Where exactly are the signs of wear in the photo?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The problem is if they are run loose or fretting they take out the keyway in the crank and also wear the crank nose, and effectively scrap the crank. Then it's an engine out and partial strip to fit another. At the moment welding up the keyway, remaking it, and checking the crank for straightness after welding is far more costly than a good used crank. There is a MKIV going about with a Loctite engineering adhesive glued on damper, at the customer's insistence, that will be a big surprise to whoever has to try and get it off again some day ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The problem is if they are run loose or fretting they take out the keyway in the crank and also wear the crank nose, and effectively scrap the crank. Then it's an engine out and partial strip to fit another. At the moment welding up the keyway, remaking it, and checking the crank for straightness after welding is far more costly than a good used crank. There is a MKIV going about with a Loctite engineering adhesive glued on damper, at the customer's insistence, that will be a big surprise to whoever has to try and get it off again some day ;)

 

Yeah I will look tomorrow, is rust and white spots a guarantee of it fretting, or just probable?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah for now it will be fine on medium boost but bigger exhaust housings is definitely on my list :thumbs:

 

 

 

Well I always use BP Ultimate but it depends if the guys filled up any normal unleaded (which I highly doubt)

 

We're confident it's just due to the small exhaust housings :)

 

Bit late with this but I would switch to v-power if I where you, someone took a 2j head apart one with v-power the other with Bp ultimate, bp ultimate one was covered in soot on the intakes and the valves, v-power one looked almost new

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bit late with this but I would switch to v-power if I where you, someone took a 2j head apart one with v-power the other with Bp ultimate, bp ultimate one was covered in soot on the intakes and the valves, v-power one looked almost new

 

Maybe a good shout as V-Power Nitro is supposedly 99ron vs BP Ultimate's 97ron..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. You might also be interested in our Guidelines, Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.