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Jack's S366 TT6 Build


JackyBoi

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If only I was advised to change such inexpensive aspects of the engine during the conversion to prevent this..!

 

Most cases they say it is fine as stock engines can easily handle 600bhp, you must have been unlucky, as stated these cars are getting old and seals are more likely to fail due to age.

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Assuming it has full service history, 14 years old and 50k on the clock doesn't scream out new seals and pump for a 2jz. Just my opinion.

 

Yeah there's no real service history in terms of engine work, just basic things like a cambelt change, regular MOT's and services like spark plugs brakes suspension etc. Just crossing my fingers for this comp and leak down test :p

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Mileage and age only paint part of the picture. How it was assembled, frequency of oil changes, the way it's been driven etc all have a part to play.

 

Supra's are tough, among the best, but they are not indestructible.

 

Yeah unfortunately no car will ever come with a guarantee unless it's brand new. I guess I just got unlucky with the crank seal as many people have Supra's with like over 200,000 miles and have never had to change a crank seal

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Mileage and age only paint part of the picture. How it was assembled, frequency of oil changes, the way it's been driven etc all have a part to play.

 

Supra's are tough, among the best, but they are not indestructible.

 

Hence the reason I said "assuming it has full service history". :)

My car has done almost twice the amount of miles and I won't be changing a thing when it goes single (unless there are telltale signs). Its like a sewing machine and the oil comes out like you could fry chips in it after every oil change.

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Guest Budz86

It's not a standard practice to change the crank seal if there is no signs of it leaking; the engine has found its 'harmony ' and no sense doing anything that might unbalance that. Things like oil pumps, water pumps etc would usually be worth changing when the engine is out though, certainly at this age but that's mostly because it's a block out job anyway so might as well do it while you have the access.

 

My FMS blew out on DB in 2013; chucked a new one in and it was sweet as a nut and ran fine with no compression issues etc.....and it happened at quite a high speed too while chasing Jamie, Steve M and the Do Luck! ;)

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It's not a standard practice to change the crank seal if there is no signs of it leaking; the engine has found its 'harmony ' and no sense doing anything that might unbalance that. Things like oil pumps, water pumps etc would usually be worth changing when the engine is out though, certainly at this age but that's mostly because it's a block out job anyway so might as well do it while you have the access.

 

My FMS blew out on DB in 2013; chucked a new one in and it was sweet as a nut and ran fine with no compression issues etc.....and it happened at quite a high speed too while chasing Jamie, Steve M and the Do Luck! ;)

 

Well I'm hoping my situation will be very similar to yours then :thumbs: and yes I'm having all that changed too, just as a precaution. I'm a bit OCD

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Just had the comp and leakdown test done... And it passed with flying colours! All 6 cylinders had a compression of between 170-180psi and leakdown was less than 20% for all pistons. He even stuck a tiny camera down to look at the bores which are all in great nic. So, new crank seal, oil pump, rear main seal, cam cover seal, head gasket and potentially breathers on the to-do list, what else should I be adding whilst the engine is out the car? Gonna make the most of it! :D so happy that a rebuild is off the cards

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what's the reasoning re the head gasket change?

 

I was advised by j-jza80, but due to the good news re. comp and leakdown test I think the mechanic will just strip down the front end rather than take the engine out. Although if he can do it without it being too expensive in terms of labour, then I'll go all out :)

 

Maybe worth doing rod bolts if your taking the sump off. Not sure on your power goals though.

 

Max HP this car will ever reach will be 700hp, but I doubt it will tip more than 650. Read that the 'Goldie-Lox' zone for a 2JZ is between 600-700bhp

 

That must be such a relief! :D

 

Your recent woes have just made me fork out quite a lot of some failsafe devices for my car :)

 

I hope the crank nose is okay too :)

 

Yeah buddy just saved 5k so relief is an understatement! What failsafe devices may I ask? I may be tempted myself... :D

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I wouldn't bother doing the head gasket myself, Now you know the engine looks to be ok, I'd just do the oil pump and seal if the crank nose looks ok. I'd also change the water pump and put new belts on it if they haven't been done in a while.

 

Thanks mate might just leave the engine in for now save myself a bit of money and just replace everything that is accessible. Although are you able to access the RMS with the engine in?

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Just read all this, seems you have had a lucky escape. This is the main reason I put knock, oil pressure, oil temp and fuel pressure sensors in mine that feed to the Syvecs and then I output all those readings to my Dash2 via the CAN bus.

 

One of my jobs to do is work out whats going on with the oil temp sensor as the output on the dash always reads 52 degrees so its obviously not working.

 

I would hope that Ryan has set the failsafes on my ECU but its one of the things I would like to check.

 

Your in good hands with Darren looking after the car though :)

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