JackyBoi Posted March 16, 2015 Author Share Posted March 16, 2015 The engine has only just been out at Whifbitz? Why did you not change the normal things then? like Seals, oil pumps etc? thought it would be a given if you're putting that much power on an old engine. Surprised Paul agreed to do it? Well I would have thought a professional would have advised someone with much less mechanical knowledge (such as myself) to have these sorts of things changed to prevent issues such as this, but ultimately no I never thought about having it all done whilst the engine was out. But at least I've learnt my lesson which is why I'm trying to gather advice on other things worth changing whilst the engine comes out for the second time in two weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Sounds like you got away with it if it was just the level light, (which isn't terribly reliable anyway). Hopefully it never lost actual *pressure*. I would change all the engine seals and definitely all the core plugs, and have a look at the bearing shells, maybe Plastiguage them, or just renew them as a matter of course. A new water pump, cam belt and possibly tensioner pulley and tensioner cartridge itself. Depends how far you want to go! Good time to drop in some decent rod bolts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyBoi Posted March 16, 2015 Author Share Posted March 16, 2015 Sounds like you got away with it if it was just the level light, (which isn't terribly reliable anyway). Hopefully it never lost actual *pressure*. I would change all the engine seals and definitely all the core plugs, and have a look at the bearing shells, maybe Plastiguage them, or just renew them as a matter of course. A new water pump, cam belt and possibly tensioner pulley and tensioner cartridge itself. Depends how far you want to go! Good time to drop in some decent rod bolts? Alright, so I've got a new crank seal, new oil pump, new head gasket, new cam cover seal, new core plugs and to have a look at bearing shells, water pump, cam belt and tensioner pulley, potentially also some rod bolts... Anything else? need to full-proof this engine so hopefully throwing this extra money at it will save my arse in the long-run!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 If you are going that far you may aswell drop some nice rods and Pistons in it, you might kick yourself later down the line if you don't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Which means a rebore. Starts to get expensive as you might as well overhaul the head too and make a proper job of it. How many miles has it done? Or has supposed to have done ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luxluc Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 No need for a built engine unless you plan to go much higher in bhp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 There's a difference between a "built" engine and a tired engine that needs a rebuild though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz1 Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 This is the issue most people assume stock block is fine, but for how long considering these engines are very old, all the the internal seals would need refreshing.......Me personally I would go down Jamie route as you never know when you might want more power . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 I'm not saying it's needed to be done, I'm just saying if I was doing all he has listed above then I'd do everything, he is 3/4 the way there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyBoi Posted March 16, 2015 Author Share Posted March 16, 2015 Which means a rebore. Starts to get expensive as you might as well overhaul the head too and make a proper job of it. How many miles has it done? Or has supposed to have done ? 51,000 miles There's a difference between a "built" engine and a tired engine that needs a rebuild though! It's far from tired it's only blown a crank seal... Just looking at other inexpensive things worth replacing whilst the engine is out, not how to make it absolutely bulletproof by spending ££££££££££££££££££££££££££ on it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Whiffin Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Well I would have thought a professional would have advised someone with much less mechanical knowledge (such as myself) to have these sorts of things changed to prevent issues such as this, but ultimately no I never thought about having it all done whilst the engine was out. But at least I've learnt my lesson which is why I'm trying to gather advice on other things worth changing whilst the engine comes out for the second time in two weeks. We've done hundreds of conversions like this and very rarely have issues with the oil seals popping out or leaking. If there are signs of it leaking before we start a conversion we would advise it for sure. Changing the oil pump isn't a 100% guaranteed fix anyway, if the seal has blown out completely then it could be excessive crank case pressure causing it too which would mean a rebore and new pistons along with cylinder head strip down/check, and all of the other parts associated with an engine strip down/rebuild. I'm not saying it is this, we wont know until a leak down and compression test is done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz1 Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Seals can fail at any given time my supra has very low mileage but has messed up compression, I always thought low mileage cars were much better. My mistake, I was young and the car was parked for 8 years! Hence why I had the compression problems. Here's video that explains how seals can fail at any point! As stated I would consider refreshing much as possible for peace of mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren_Whifbitz Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Sorry to hear you had some issues mate, especially after you have just got it back. As paul said we have done lots of these conversions and 9 times out of 10 all is well, we can change the oil pump and seal and check crank nose wear, but we do normally find that this is not a 100% fix and if the car has popped the seal out that much it would normally require a rebuild. depending what budget you have at present would depend on what route we should take, if you want to try cheapest route first as in seal and check crank nose with a leak down and comp test , i would definitely advise a oil pressure sensor linked to syvecs to save the engine if you have any seals issues again. But if you want to do it all properly and future proof it then i would get it rebuilt properly, i know its more expensive initially but it the long run you will save a lot more money Cheers Darren Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jazz1 Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Sorry to hear you had some issues mate, especially after you have just got it back. As paul said we have done lots of these conversions and 9 times out of 10 all is well, we can change the oil pump and seal and check crank nose wear, but we do normally find that this is not a 100% fix and if the car has popped the seal out that much it would normally require a rebuild. depending what budget you have at present would depend on what route we should take, if you want to try cheapest route first as in seal and check crank nose with a leak down and comp test , i would definitely advise a oil pressure sensor linked to syvecs to save the engine if you have any seals issues again. But if you want to do it all properly and future proof it then i would get it rebuilt properly, i know its more expensive initially but it the long run you will save a lot more money Cheers Darren Sound advice . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Supes Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 Well I would have thought a professional would have advised someone with much less mechanical knowledge (such as myself) to have these sorts of things changed to prevent issues such as this, but ultimately no I never thought about having it all done whilst the engine was out. But at least I've learnt my lesson which is why I'm trying to gather advice on other things worth changing whilst the engine comes out for the second time in two weeks. To be fair, if a garage wanted to change all the pumps and seals on my engine (and it had only done 51k miles with no signs of issues), I would be thinking in the back of my mind they're trying to shaft me for a extra bit of cash. 51k is barely worn in for a 2jz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 To be fair, if a garage wanted to change all the pumps and seals on my engine (and it had only done 51k miles with no signs of issues), I would be thinking in the back of my mind they're trying to shaft me for a extra bit of cash. 51k is barely worn in for a 2jz. it's still 20 years old though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamieP Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 it's still 20 years old though. Maths not your best subject Ric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ric Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 Maths not your best subject Ric I was generalising Most supras are that age. Not this one, but as with all imports who knows what's going on with mileages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyBoi Posted March 17, 2015 Author Share Posted March 17, 2015 Sorry to hear you had some issues mate, especially after you have just got it back. As paul said we have done lots of these conversions and 9 times out of 10 all is well, we can change the oil pump and seal and check crank nose wear, but we do normally find that this is not a 100% fix and if the car has popped the seal out that much it would normally require a rebuild. depending what budget you have at present would depend on what route we should take, if you want to try cheapest route first as in seal and check crank nose with a leak down and comp test , i would definitely advise a oil pressure sensor linked to syvecs to save the engine if you have any seals issues again. But if you want to do it all properly and future proof it then i would get it rebuilt properly, i know its more expensive initially but it the long run you will save a lot more money Cheers Darren This is speculation we don't even know if the seal has popped out I'm just going by what Chris has said regarding if it's losing that much oil then there is a chance that it's come out completely. Not up for rebuilding the whole engine just cos a seal has failed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren_Whifbitz Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 This is speculation we don't even know if the seal has popped out I'm just going by what Chris has said regarding if it's losing that much oil then there is a chance that it's come out completely. Not up for rebuilding the whole engine just cos a seal has failed It will be the crank seal that has come out, and they only come out for a reason. Worn pump, engine worn (breathing, crank nose wear). Like i said we can take front apart and check for crank wear if all is ok then then we can try just a seal, but their is no garantee this will work and you will have to have the oil pressure sensor fitted. next step would be oil pump and if all this fails a rebuild is required , so as you can see you could spend more trying to cure the issue in the long run. I was just putting you in the picture as to what normally happens in these situations, ultimately the route you wish to take is yours we can only advise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 Having considerable experience of the dreaded front seal leakage I have to support Darren here. There's a reason they give trouble, other than just old age. I have yet to see one leaking that isn't caused by either a crank nose wear ridge, a tired oil pump, or blow by caused by worn or damaged pistons and bores. Chucking in a new seal is not very expensive in the grand scale of things, but if it leaks again the true cause needs assessing properly. If it's blow by adding huge cam cover breather hoses to a catch can *MAY* alleviate it for a while, but it's a crutch, not a fix. A worn oil pump can only be fixed by renewal. A worn crank nose causing the leak can often be fixed by my special high tension pump seals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JackyBoi Posted March 17, 2015 Author Share Posted March 17, 2015 Having considerable experience of the dreaded front seal leakage I have to support Darren here. There's a reason they give trouble, other than just old age. I have yet to see one leaking that isn't caused by either a crank nose wear ridge, a tired oil pump, or blow by caused by worn or damaged pistons and bores. Chucking in a new seal is not very expensive in the grand scale of things, but if it leaks again the true cause needs assessing properly. If it's blow by adding huge cam cover breather hoses to a catch can *MAY* alleviate it for a while, but it's a crutch, not a fix. A worn oil pump can only be fixed by renewal. A worn crank nose causing the leak can often be fixed by my special high tension pump seals. Okay, so IF it passes the compression and leakdown test I'm gonna have the FMS and RMS changed, as well as a new uprated oil pump to be safe, along with your high tension pump seal. And if it fails the comp and leakdown test..... New shortblock? Or is there a better/cheaper way round it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Whiffin Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 Okay, so IF it passes the compression and leakdown test I'm gonna have the FMS and RMS changed, as well as a new uprated oil pump to be safe, along with your high tension pump seal. And if it fails the comp and leakdown test..... New shortblock? Or is there a better/cheaper way round it.. There is no need for an uprated oil pump or seal, we only ever use standard pumps on all of our builds, be it standard or big power. Unfortunately there is no cheap engine rebuild available, the cheapest route would be a used engine to replace the one you have but there aren't any guarentees that it'll be better than what you have! Thats one reason why we dont deal with any used engines these days. Lets see what the comp/leak down results give first before we get you too worried. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 I am backing out now, for professional courtesy reasons, not through not wanting to help. There's nothing worse if you are a trader than having other traders "advising" your customers, no matter how genuine the desire to assist may be I am sure Whifbitz will get you up and running soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nodalmighty Posted March 17, 2015 Share Posted March 17, 2015 (edited) There's a difference between a "built" engine and a tired engine that needs a rebuild though! Surely all engines are built or they are just a pile of bits on the floor? Edited March 17, 2015 by Nodalmighty (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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