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Jack's S366 TT6 Build


JackyBoi

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I have no oil pressure sensor so that will be why it didn't shut down

 

No oil pressure sensor to the ECU is madness imo, who built the car?

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That is something I would get rectified ASAP. Might cost you a bit extra, but could save you thousands.

 

I do hope it's okay, the lack of any untoward noises is promising, but not a guarantee.

 

I bloody hope so. It was a short journey and I kept the revs as low as I possibly could, which sent the turbo shuffle into overdrive but just needed to get it home

 

No oil pressure sensor to the ECU is madness imo, who built the car?

 

Was built by Darren at Whifbitz

 

I would run all possible sensors with the Syvecs. Oil pressure is important mate.

 

I run Oil temp, water temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure, EGT, ACT, knock sensor.

 

I was holding out for a toucan display to prevent having a hundred gauges in the cockpit, but guess I under-estimated the importance of an oil pressure gauge. Gonna get a cheap temp in place until I get the toucan display

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Rather than run a Toucan, I would run some decent quality gauges. The Stack range is fantastic, and they do various types including those with logging and warning lights/buzzers.

 

That way, you have a redundancy system incase there is an issue with the ecu or one of the sensors.

 

I know gauges can be unsightly, but with a bit of thought they can be well integrated.

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You don't need to run any gauges or a toucan, just wire the sensors you want to the syvecs and have it look after everything, gauges look naff. As does a toucan. I only run one so I can keep an eye on the ethanol content.

 

That's a great idea for those who don't like the look of gauges/toucan, but I have a neat idea for a toucan install ;)

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I'd buy a cheap mechanical pressure gauge from the likes of Raceparts UK, and fit one of my exchange oil filter housing bolts that take a -3 fitting for the hose to the gauge. Cheapo electric ones are usually junk, I prefer mechanical gauges for pressure unless the budget is large. All modded cars need a gauge for oil pressure unless the ECU reads pressure and kills the engine if it drops significantly. You need to verify there's been no crank damage caused by such low pressure for an extended time. Hope it is OK!! I have only seen one seal pop out altogether, usually the oil pump is goosed if it does this. That's a huge amount of oil to lose so fast.

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That's a great idea for those who don't like the look of gauges/toucan, but I have a neat idea for a toucan install ;)

 

I do agree with Jamie that gauges, especially those with bright lights and black lenses, do look tacky. But there's ways of integrating them subtly. For example, my single had a row of gauges in the glovebox. Close the glovebox and you'd never know. The same can be done with the pre facelift upper glovebox.

 

As Chris said, you should be looking to have oil pressure as a minimum, but I would also consider a decent AFR gauge to be essential. I don't think a boost gauge is particularly necessary if you have a decent boost controller that has a peak hold or playback function.

Edited by j_jza80 (see edit history)
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I'd buy a cheap mechanical pressure gauge from the likes of Raceparts UK, and fit one of my exchange oil filter housing bolts that take a -3 fitting for the hose to the gauge. Cheapo electric ones are usually junk, I prefer mechanical gauges for pressure unless the budget is large. All modded cars need a gauge for oil pressure unless the ECU reads pressure and kills the engine if it drops significantly. You need to verify there's been no crank damage caused by such low pressure for an extended time. Hope it is OK!! I have only seen one seal pop out altogether, usually the oil pump is goosed if it does this. That's a huge amount of oil to lose so fast.

 

I honestly hope so Chris. Couldn't bear to hear that I've ruined the engine after just a week of having it back. But the lack of strange noises, ticking, idle flutter etc keeps me confident that it will continue to run fine once it's fixed again. Just bought an oil pressure gauge :)

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If you buy a gauge to monitor oil pressure, get one with an alarm, otherwise you will never notice a drop.

 

Surely I will just be able to see that the pressure is reading lower than usual? I've bought a mechanical Racetech one from RaceParts for £36.14

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low oil in itself won't cause low pressure will it? I presume at the amber oil level warning light the engine is fine (obviously far from ideal!) to operate, else IMO the warning light should be set for a lower loss?

 

All depends how much more oil was lost in those 8 miles from the light coming on ie whether it reached low enough to effect oil pressure, no?

 

FWIW I've never read/seen/heard of anyone getting a low level oil light from general consumption, its always coincided with a major oil leak event, oil pressure sensor or crank seal etc, so for future reference any major oil top up deserves a thorough visual inspection.

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If you put a high pressure oil warning light switch in place of the stock one, say a 30PSI one it can light a BIG LED in your line of sight if pressure drops critically at revs. Downside is it will dazzle you at night when idling. The Syvecs could be wired, given a pressure transducer for oil pressure, to give audible and visual warnings if pressure drops below X PSI at Y RPM and above.

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low oil in itself won't cause low pressure will it? I presume at the amber oil level warning light the engine is fine (obviously far from ideal!) to operate, else IMO the warning light should be set for a lower loss?

 

All depends how much more oil was lost in those 8 miles from the light coming on ie whether it reached low enough to effect oil pressure, no?

 

FWIW I've never read/seen/heard of anyone getting a low level oil light from general consumption, its always coincided with a major oil leak event, oil pressure sensor or crank seal etc, so for future reference any major oil top up deserves a thorough visual inspection.

 

 

Depends if he's talking about the low oil LEVEL light or the low oil PRESSURE light. isn't the pressure one red and level amber.... I forget.

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low oil in itself won't cause low pressure will it? I presume at the amber oil level warning light the engine is fine (obviously far from ideal!) to operate, else IMO the warning light should be set for a lower loss?

 

All depends how much more oil was lost in those 8 miles from the light coming on ie whether it reached low enough to effect oil pressure, no?

 

FWIW I've never read/seen/heard of anyone getting a low level oil light from general consumption, its always coincided with a major oil leak event, oil pressure sensor or crank seal etc, so for future reference any major oil top up deserves a thorough visual inspection.

 

Depends if he's talking about the low oil LEVEL light or the low oil PRESSURE light. isn't the pressure one red and level amber.... I forget.

 

It was the low oil level light (amber) which shows a little oil can above the oil. The oil pressure light never came on, nor did any other lights or warnings, but when I got home it stank of oil and obviously the next morning was when I checked it all out to find little to no oil in the engine. Seems to be the crank seal which has been knackered from the sudden rise in HP so to count out the oil pump I'll get a new one of those too. Any other seals worth replacing whilst the engine is out?

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The engine has only just been out at Whifbitz?

 

Why did you not change the normal things then? like Seals, oil pumps etc? thought it would be a given if you're putting that much power on an old engine.

 

Surprised Paul agreed to do it?

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