Jump to content
The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Jack's S366 TT6 Build


JackyBoi

Recommended Posts

Thinking about treating the old gal to the following:

 

GReddy 16 row oil cooler

 

image

 

GReddy boost gauge

 

image

 

TRD rad cap

 

image

 

Some LED tail lights (not 100% sure yet but they do look gorgeous)

 

image

 

And a Shine Auto Project carbon rear diffuser (finally) :D

 

image

 

These bits will probably be going on in a few weeks, just waiting for Wednesday to order them :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 755
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Thinking about treating the old gal to the following:

 

GReddy 16 row oil cooler

 

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/03/36efa0e95bd62d2469af6cdcd69c03df.jpg

 

GReddy boost gauge

 

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/03/6941f0dde9a86006e2375a01d2432fd5.jpg

 

TRD rad cap

 

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/03/48d3a9cb5bc8b2c41ec4c788fbcf9e5e.jpg

 

Some LED tail lights (not 100% sure yet but they do look gorgeous)

 

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/03/e3f5133237c4081facf29355b95a63ab.jpg

 

And a Shine Auto Project carbon rear diffuser (finally) :D

 

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/03/60133b28c8e1e75adad76296ad1d0ea5.jpg

 

These bits will probably be going on in a few weeks, just waiting for Wednesday to order them :)

 

That lot looks good mate, not sure about boost gauge though, get a Toucan instead if you wanna see that sort of stuff, or the bluetooth module for the syvecs and download the app for your phone

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That lot looks good mate, not sure about boost gauge though, get a Toucan instead if you wanna see that sort of stuff, or the bluetooth module for the syvecs and download the app for your phone

 

Ultimately I aim to have a Toucan to display my oil temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure, knock etc, but I want just one singular boost gauge sitting in the dash too for that Fast and Furious effect ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ultimately I aim to have a Toucan to display my oil temp, oil pressure, fuel pressure, knock etc, but I want just one singular boost gauge sitting in the dash too for that Fast and Furious effect ;)

 

Ha fair enough mate :) Toucan can display 6 things at once I think and have multiple different configurations

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just placed an order for the following :D

 

http://www.workwheelsusa.com/media/gallery/10/1031_full.jpg

 

image

 

image

 

http://frsbrzperformance.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/12/scion-frs-v8-swap-todokori-work-emotion-d9r.jpg

 

I've ordered them in 19x10.5 et30 for the rear and 19x9.5 et38 for the front in GT Silver with a diamond polished lip. It was a really tough decision between 18" and 19" but settled on 19's because they will make the car look a bit more modern. Hoping to run a 255 tyre on the front and a 295 on the rear - thinking about the Michelin Pilot Super Sports; I'm wanting a tyre that works great in both wet and dry conditions given the typical British weather! Will update once they're fitted :thumbs:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I run a 19 row oil cooler.

The only issue I have is that when outside temps are not that high (below 10°C when going to work in the morning), my oil temp goes quickly below 70°C when cruising.

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

I run a 19 row oil cooler.

The only issue I have is that when outside temps are not that high (below 10°C when going to work in the morning), my oil temp goes quickly below 70°C when cruising.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You sure they clear UK brakes? Dish looks to big if they are the same as the picture. I've always preferred to run without a oil cooler and keep my oil pressure at its highest.

 

If not, I'll get some very fine spacers and hope they don't poke out too much

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wouldn't bother with an oil cooler unless you're doing lots of track driving.

 

Agreed

 

Even then, I would want the cooler to be thermostatically controlled. Plus, ideally you would want to change the viscosity of the oil you're using if running a cooler.

 

Not worth the extra aggro on a road car IMO.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stock oil cooler is pretty crap. With the extra load I'd run a decent -10 cooler. I have a 19row mocal cooler with a mocal thermostatic sandwhich plate. My oil pressures are as per stock, minimal loss. Personally i'd run one, especially with twins and the extra heat they load the oil and water systems with.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Stock oil cooler is pretty crap. With the extra load I'd run a decent -10 cooler. I have a 19row mocal cooler with a mocal thermostatic sandwhich plate. My oil pressures are as per stock, minimal loss. Personally i'd run one, especially with twins and the extra heat they load the oil and water systems with.

 

Yeah this is why I wanted an aftermarket one as opposed to keeping it stock. Two turbos create a lot more heat than one!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I went on a little spending spree :innocent: items include the following

 

Momo Mod 07 steering wheel 350mm black leather

 

image

 

TRD oil cap

 

image

 

Whifbitz billet radiator brackets

 

image

 

Whifbitz 19 row oil cooler (GReddy ones are more than double the price for a 16 row, so thought what's the point?!)

 

image

 

Aluminium rad pipe

 

image

 

And yes oh yes a Shine Auto carbon diffuser purchased off kirky_123

 

image

 

image

 

image

 

image

 

image

 

Will update as soon as I start getting round to fitting them. The car should be out the garage in a couple of days :thumbs:

 

I'm also still on the hunt for larger exhaust housings for my HKS kit with no luck, tried HKS Japan, Thailand, Europe and USA but none can help me! :(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just on oil Coolers, Oil breakdown and excessive oxidation will take place above 130 degrees oil temp, generally hp is lost over 115 degrees, under hard driving an oil cooler is only recommended if the oil is regularly in excess of 120 degrees

 

Too cold oil is just a detrimental to an engine , wear and tear plus loss in power ; dropping oil temps down to 85 degrees will cost at least 1% hp

 

Unless you need one, you are causing yourself unnecessary trouble fitting one, if your temps are around 110-120 degress under normal driving conditions , you can still run at WOT for a few miles before temps become an issue

 

If you still want to fit one (With the help of Chris W) , it is best practice to to have the fittings at the top , and run an oil filter that has an anti drain back valve.

 

Reason remote mounted oil filters can be a bad idea, if you retain the stock oil filter position just off the side of the block, it will be in the best position for the anti drive back valve to keep the cooler and lines full of oil during long engine off periods. Then when you start the engine the pump doesn't have to refill all the lines and cooler before the engine bearings see oil pressure. Makes a HUGE difference to cold start wear and tear, and is just "good practice". Oil filter maker's sites will show if a particular filter has an anti drain back valve, or with a bit of experience you can look down the threaded mounting hole and see in many cases.

 

 

https://tpoparts.com/images/OilFilterCompare_4.png

 

The outer shell or housing

The spring, which seats the filter against the mounting plate

The filter core itself

The anti-drainback valve (this keeps oil inside the engine when the motorcycle is parked)

The mounting plate

The box

 

https://tpoparts.com/articles/oilfiltercompare.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just on oil Coolers, Oil breakdown and excessive oxidation will take place above 130 degrees oil temp, generally hp is lost over 115 degrees, under hard driving an oil cooler is only recommended if the oil is regularly in excess of 120 degrees

 

Too cold oil is just a detrimental to an engine , wear and tear plus loss in power ; dropping oil temps down to 85 degrees will cost at least 1% hp

 

Unless you need one, you are causing yourself unnecessary trouble fitting one, if your temps are around 110-120 degress under normal driving conditions , you can still run at WOT for a few miles before temps become an issue

 

If you still want to fit one (With the help of Chris W) , it is best practice to to have the fittings at the top , and run an oil filter that has an anti drain back valve.

 

Reason remote mounted oil filters can be a bad idea, if you retain the stock oil filter position just off the side of the block, it will be in the best position for the anti drive back valve to keep the cooler and lines full of oil during long engine off periods. Then when you start the engine the pump doesn't have to refill all the lines and cooler before the engine bearings see oil pressure. Makes a HUGE difference to cold start wear and tear, and is just "good practice". Oil filter maker's sites will show if a particular filter has an anti drain back valve, or with a bit of experience you can look down the threaded mounting hole and see in many cases.

 

 

https://tpoparts.com/images/OilFilterCompare_4.png

 

The outer shell or housing

The spring, which seats the filter against the mounting plate

The filter core itself

The anti-drainback valve (this keeps oil inside the engine when the motorcycle is parked)

The mounting plate

The box

 

https://tpoparts.com/articles/oilfiltercompare.html

 

Okay mate thanks for the heads up. I drive my Audi as my daily so to be honest the only times I'm driving my Supra is under fairly hard driving. If I notice it cooling the oil too much I'll just remove it and sell it on :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay mate thanks for the heads up. I drive my Audi as my daily so to be honest the only times I'm driving my Supra is under fairly hard driving. If I notice it cooling the oil too much I'll just remove it and sell it on :)

 

;) mine came in with one from Japan, considering removing it myself

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pretty fed up to be saying this but there is yet again another problem with the Supra, this time it won't start. Everything mechanical on the car is now absolutely sound (injectors provide fuel, spark plugs provide spark, adequate fuel pressure, correct timing etc) so the only possible explanation is to do with the ECU, which means dragging the car back to Whifbitz in London to hopefully get it fixed once and for all. I've had the car back from the big twin conversion for 40 days now; only 5 of those days has the car been parked on my drive :( I think I'm getting genuine withdrawal symptoms.....

 

On another note a quick and simple remap on my Audi got it from 128bhp to 174bhp and 310nm to 403nm in a matter of 15 minutes... Well chuffed! :thumbs: still no where near as satisfying as a Supra though...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. You might also be interested in our Guidelines, Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.