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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Why buy expensive oil brands?


Thomas.B

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One important factor that no one seems to have mentioned is the temperature range. Anyone that tracks a car will know the oil very easily surpasses 100-110 degrees on a track and if you have no cooler then most semi-synthetic oils and standard synthetic ones break down around this temperature loosing their properties and basically start baking to everything. Expensive race type oils like Millers CFS and similar are stable to 130 degrees + so you can get away with out an oil cooler more safely or just have a good reliable safety net if you have a proper set up.

 

If anyone has ever seen inside a more modern engine that has been on 'long life' service intervals with 'long life' oil (20k between changes) then you'd have worked out that the bull shit label on the bottle and the instructions in the book are just ink on paper. All the galleries are blocked up, cams wear because the feeds are all just blocked with crud. The oil still ruins the engine as any would if you don't change it at proper intervals so this above anything is the most important factor. Oil quality and ratings is all down to what your expecting from the engine if its pumping out more than stock power, also what you are using it for or simply peace of mind.

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Ian C: Well, for a brand that only does R&D and one that does all of the quoted, what one would be more expensive? Would it be the better brand because of the other pricey things?

 

I don't really give a toss, and as Alex said, what is your point exactly? Use whatever oil you like, I'll use what I've been using for the last 10+ years and continue to have squeaky clean cams and galleries etc..

 

If you've got structured test data from multiple engines in controlled conditions during an extended double blind test then I'll be interested, everything else is personal opinion based on one oil and one engine. Like tyres and brake pads, I'd not push my choice of oil over any others of the same ilk because it isn't measurable by ordinary punters like us.

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I don't really give a toss, and as Alex said, what is your point exactly? Use whatever oil you like, I'll use what I've been using for the last 10+ years and continue to have squeaky clean cams and galleries etc..

 

If you've got structured test data from multiple engines in controlled conditions during an extended double blind test then I'll be interested, everything else is personal opinion based on one oil and one engine. Like tyres and brake pads, I'd not push my choice of oil over any others of the same ilk because it isn't measurable by ordinary punters like us.

 

 

Are your teeth falling out? A new toothpaste could cure that. Even if they aren't, it might be worth changing over to the stuff I'm using just to guarantee they don't fall out.

Edited by Scott (see edit history)
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One important factor that no one seems to have mentioned is the temperature range. Anyone that tracks a car will know the oil very easily surpasses 100-110 degrees on a track and if you have no cooler then most semi-synthetic oils and standard synthetic ones break down around this temperature loosing their properties and basically start baking to everything. Expensive race type oils like Millers CFS and similar are stable to 130 degrees + so you can get away with out an oil cooler more safely or just have a good reliable safety net if you have a proper set up.

 

If anyone has ever seen inside a more modern engine that has been on 'long life' service intervals with 'long life' oil (20k between changes) then you'd have worked out that the bull shit label on the bottle and the instructions in the book are just ink on paper. All the galleries are blocked up, cams wear because the feeds are all just blocked with crud. The oil still ruins the engine as any would if you don't change it at proper intervals so this above anything is the most important factor. Oil quality and ratings is all down to what your expecting from the engine if its pumping out more than stock power, also what you are using it for or simply peace of mind.

 

Your oil should be passing 100°C quite often to prevent water building up in the oil... That's why oil cooling should be built suiting to the use of the car. If you're just street driving it with few pulls a smaller oil cooler is okay if you track it a bigger or maybe even two oil coolers will have to do. There is no point in having the oil below 100°C and every oil will have no Problem with temperatures over 100°C.

Fully synthetic and higher viscosity will just give you more headroom in conditions far over 100°C without loosing lubricating capabilities. ;)

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I use toothpaste in my engine so it is clean on the exhaust and I gargle with cheap 10w50 before I go to bed to help me slip into a coma.

 

I have some really expensive engine oil in 5L cans that I use to weight down the tarp over my car during the winter months. It said on the label that I should use this particular oil as it provides protection because it clings better, even at low temperatures.

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