crock Posted December 23, 2014 Author Share Posted December 23, 2014 Jacks will probably be my next port of call in the new year, i'll email them tomorrow with a few questions I have, however I do feel that there must be a uk company offering a similar service and save on the £££'a of shipping? The car has just had a new clutch and flywheel, and I trust that they have been installed correctly, and were installed before I the gearbox build and the car didn't make this noise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjy Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 Jacks will probably be my next port of call in the new year, i'll email them tomorrow with a few questions I have, however I do feel that there must be a uk company offering a similar service and save on the £££'a of shipping? The car has just had a new clutch and flywheel, and I trust that they have been installed correctly, and were installed before I the gearbox build and the car didn't make this noise Unfortunately, you've done the "open the box" up part and all seems well. You've got to go back to basics and check the obvious things again. It has been known that if too much thread lock is used, it can squish out of the thread and behind the flywheel aswell. Best thing you can do it get it to someone to diagnose it with a fresh pair of eyes/ears. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Abz Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 Jacks will probably be my next port of call in the new year, i'll email them tomorrow with a few questions I have, however I do feel that there must be a uk company offering a similar service and save on the £££'a of shipping? The car has just had a new clutch and flywheel, and I trust that they have been installed correctly, and were installed before I the gearbox build and the car didn't make this noise Doesn't the clutch & flywheel need to come out to take the box out? Hopefully they just didn't put it back in correctly? Where are you located? Just get one of the Supra specialists to have a look first before. Don't need to send it to the US, we have folks here who can fix it for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 Doesn't the clutch & flywheel need to come out to take the box out? Hopefully they just didn't put it back in correctly? Where are you located? Just get one of the Supra specialists to have a look first before. Don't need to send it to the US, we have folks here who can fix it for you. No mate, the clutch and flywheel attach to the crankshaft. The box can be removed without touching them. Sounds like a mullered release bearing to me, or the clutch fork not sitting properly. Release bearings don't always come as part of a clutch kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1_Tidy_1 Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 (edited) Mm if its a 6 speed you will have to remove the pressure plate and the clutch plate, cause there isnt enough room in the transmission tunnel to remove the gearbox Edited December 24, 2014 by 1_Tidy_1 (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjy Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 You have to unbolt the pressure plate through the inspection panel on the bottom of the bell housing. More to do with the fact it's a pull clutch, not a push. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mk4Gaz Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 Ah, I see! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted December 24, 2014 Share Posted December 24, 2014 I have done a couple of the Getrags, but the price of parts here in the UK is such that to ensure a warrantable job it becomes hugely expensive excercise, changing anything at all suspect. Parts in the USA are a LOT less. I think I spoke to you by phone, I can possibly put you in touch with someone who will have a look at it, but I haven't queried them on this myself. If you are serious about not worrying how much a fix will cost, you should consider a new one from the States or Japan, perhaps shipped in with some containered cars by the likes of Jurgen. Race transmissions are so much easier and cheaper to work with. No synchromesh, good availability of spares (well, for some makes...), and a joy to work on as they are designed from scratch to be stripped and rebuilt in a short time frame. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crock Posted December 27, 2014 Author Share Posted December 27, 2014 Also get a steel shafted screwdriver and use it as a stethoscope and try to locate the noise bit more accurate,, when the gearbox went in what did the spigot bearing and trow out bearing look like I didn't actually get to see the work carried out, it was left with my mechanic and was at work at the time, so unfortunately I do not know Also I know its a known method but a screwdriver to the ear is asking for damage Unfortunately, you've done the "open the box" up part and all seems well. You've got to go back to basics and check the obvious things again. It has been known that if too much thread lock is used, it can squish out of the thread and behind the flywheel as well. Best thing you can do it get it to someone to diagnose it with a fresh pair of eyes/ears. I'll link this topic to my mechanic and see what he thinks, Personally I'm quite convinced its due to a fault with the rebuild of the box as I have lost faith in the 'gearbox specialist' due to my experience with him, which has been far beyond a joke, however its a hard position to deal with when your gearbox is in bits on his bench I'm confident in my mechanic to do the installation correctly, as the parts replaced (clutch kit and flywheel) before the box was removed and rebuilt were fitted and where the original knock remained the noise in the videos shown didn't develop until later I have done a couple of the Getrags, but the price of parts here in the UK is such that to ensure a warrantable job it becomes hugely expensive excercise, changing anything at all suspect. Parts in the USA are a LOT less. I think I spoke to you by phone, I can possibly put you in touch with someone who will have a look at it, but I haven't queried them on this myself. If you are serious about not worrying how much a fix will cost, you should consider a new one from the States or Japan, perhaps shipped in with some containered cars by the likes of Jurgen. Race transmissions are so much easier and cheaper to work with. No synchromesh, good availability of spares (well, for some makes...), and a joy to work on as they are designed from scratch to be stripped and rebuilt in a short time frame. Hi Chris, I haven't actually been in touch with yourself about the matter, but your help would be appreciated. After speaking to my local Toyota parts counter it does seem that parts become expensive real quick, to replace 2 syncro's it was nearly £800 inc vat just for the syncro's, so I understand where you coming from with the price, The car is a road car and across summer it will be used regularly, to the point of nearly being a daily driver also I have a few driving trips to Europe planned for next year , so maybe a 'race' transmission would not be the best way to proceed, and I would like to keep the car as close to stock/returnable to stock, Obviously there is an extent to the cost that I'm prepared to pay for the gearbox fix, but I'm not looking to skimp on the rebuild I want it to be right. I have a decent disposable income, but with other costs foreseen in the new year I'm not looking to go overboard. I think I'll have to do some research into prices of boxes and their actually availability to be purchased new, or maybe ship the spares from America if that works out cost efficient. A transmission specialist who works with Getrag in the UK would be helpful if somebody has one of those? preferably the north but I know that's unlikely as most things are in the south Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1_Tidy_1 Posted December 27, 2014 Share Posted December 27, 2014 Mate, if you wear an earplug., and have the screw driver on the housing there is no change of damage, dual trade mehanic here. So used that method heaps to diagnose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jam127 Posted March 16, 2015 Share Posted March 16, 2015 I have the exact same noise as yourself. Only happens when clutch is up and when driving coming off anf on the throttle it knocks like a c&@? It obviously has to be something with the release bearingnin place so may be that or something it touches when engaged? - - - Updated - - - I have the exact same noise as yourself. Only happens when clutch is up and when driving coming off anf on the throttle it knocks like a c&@? It obviously has to be something with the release bearingnin place so may be that or something it touches when engaged? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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