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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Water in oil but don't think its Head gasket?


Brazil

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Hi;

 

I just git back after the car been sitting for a month only being started to take in and out the garage once a day.

 

We think its passing by the water oil cooling in the block where filter makes up.

 

There is oil and water cream looking on the oil cap.

 

I say that because cooling level is fine it has actually maybe increased a bit, temperature seems ok, when accelerate no bubbles are seen in radiator cap.

Edited by Brazil (see edit history)
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The emulsification on the oil cap could just be due to condensation from it being sat around.

 

Not really following this part: "We think its passing by the water oil cooling in the block where filter makes up."

 

I am talking about the fluidyne water to oil heat exchanger.

 

There is quit a lot of the white gunk in the cap; also i am using run in new engine oil and only done 200 miles after forged rebuild.

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As I said on the phone last night, I suspect it's just condensation. Billet alloy oil filler cap, lots of starts and no run time, lots of standing idle, no apparent water loss..... Classic case for seeing condensation emulsifying the oil. Please post the exact current oil system / oil cooler situation and spec. And as I said, your video of high boost flames from the wastegate pipe were worrying. I would want to have four hours minimum zero boost dyno time to bed an engine, then gradual increases in load, before that sort of shennanigans! People tend to not do this because of dyno time / mapper time costs, but rebuilt engines do need a properly conducted break in period.

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As I said on the phone last night, I suspect it's just condensation. Billet alloy oil filler cap, lots of starts and no run time, lots of standing idle, no apparent water loss..... Classic case for seeing condensation emulsifying the oil. Please post the exact current oil system / oil cooler situation and spec. And as I said, your video of high boost flames from the wastegate pipe were worrying. I would want to have four hours minimum zero boost dyno time to bed an engine, then gradual increases in load, before that sort of shennanigans! People tend to not do this because of dyno time / mapper time costs, but rebuilt engines do need a properly

conducted break in period.

 

It appears it is condensation after all since we pressure tested the cooling system to 3 bar, opened the oil to water heat exchanger and opened up the cam cover and only saw the cream stuff near the oil cap.

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