Guest jonezy Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 looking after a mates car and been having some issues with it. clutch has gone so its been stood for about 3 months. being stood for so longs had flattened the battery jump started her, ran and idled fine but it had the (!) mark on the dash when running. switched car off and battery hadnt charged so was dead again. replaced the battery today with a brand new one and the car cranks over and starts, but then cuts out straight away. runs if you keep your foot on the gas, but cuts out as soon as you let off. when i first got the car started i noticed the exhaust was blowing from the centre section, could this casue the EML to come on triggering a lambda fault? tried the method of a loop of wire in across the terminals of the diagnostics port in the bay, but i think the immobiliser is stopping that method working. tried it immobiliser on/off and non-VVTI abd VVTI paperclip methods. little confused as to why the paperclip method doesnt work why it now wont idle now anyone got any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 Did you get the right ports and push the wire in deep enough? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jonezy Posted October 29, 2014 Share Posted October 29, 2014 100% sure I did the right ports, Non VVTI is E1 and TE1 VVTI Is E1 and TC1 Right? The terminals are clearly visible so I am sure they are touching. When I did the e1 and tc1 I got the traction control like flashing and that was it. The e1 and TE1 terminals didn't cause any reaction at all? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jonezy Posted October 30, 2014 Share Posted October 30, 2014 Any more ideas? If an immobiliser is fitted will it stop the shorting with paper clip from working? Even if it's deactivated? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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