Mike2JZ Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 So the N/A I bought recently is getting to the stage where sometime this weekend I will be starting her up for the first time in about 2 years. My checklist of things to do is the following, can anyone confirm if I'm on the right track or if there is anything else that would be recommended to do. 1) Install new battery 2) Siphon old fuel out of tank, replace with new fuel 3) Try starting car, if engine fires and runs go to next step, if not then diagnose issue 4) Full service of fluids 5) New oil filter 6) Done? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted October 8, 2014 Share Posted October 8, 2014 Before you try and start it up, prime it first. Pull the lead off the coil, turn it over to build some oil pressure up, circulate it a bit and get the fuel pressure up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted October 8, 2014 Author Share Posted October 8, 2014 Before you try and start it up, prime it first. Pull the lead off the coil, turn it over to build some oil pressure up, circulate it a bit and get the fuel pressure up. Just to clarify, by disconnected the coil packs, ignition won't happen. But turning the key will still make the engine crank? Which in turn leads to increased oil pressure + circulation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 Just pull the center coil lead out the dizzy, your car wont start then. As you turn the engine over you are turning the oil pump thus pushing oil round the engine, you should see the oil light go out on the dash, when it does pop the lead back on the dizzy and fire it up, don't rev it though and let it tick over for a while I'd check the oil level first using the dipstick and check the rad is full of coolant and the expansion tank is approx half full, check the state of the rad cap too, the seal on the underside tend to fail with age. Don't forget to change the brake fluid and check all the calipers are free and working correctly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 Just to clarify, by disconnected the coil packs, ignition won't happen. But turning the key will still make the engine crank? Which in turn leads to increased oil pressure + circulation? Excactly, plus you have an NA so no coil packs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 Just fire it up, 2 year old fuel isn't very old. I have fired barn finds up on 14 year old fuel, maybe older. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted October 9, 2014 Author Share Posted October 9, 2014 Alright thanks for the advice guys, much appreciated. Will take some video's just in case it all goes tits up and laughs can be had. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 Put the key in.... turn key. That's what I did with my 3 year project and it's fine. The only heart in mouth part I had was waiting on the oil to start spurting from the tubby oil feed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted October 10, 2014 Author Share Posted October 10, 2014 So spent the morning prepping the car to start, once I turned the key the following happens: So I guess the engine is cranking? But doesn't seem to do much else I guess my next step is to check the spark plugs and give them a clean if needed. Any other thoughts on what could be causing the issue? I don't think it's the security system, I've overridden it with a fob every time I've tried to start the car thus far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
safcdixon Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 Sounds like an alarm/immobiliser cutting in too me, does it have one? Are you getting fuel? Can you here the pump priming if so Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WayneW Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 Could be the temperature sensor, maybe a bit unplugged or smth like that. Had the similar case on my last TT6. Did not start at cold, well at warm temp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Massey Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 Does sound like it's not even trying to start. I'd make sure fuel was getting there. And there's a spark. Are the leads in the correct way? King lead connected? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted October 10, 2014 Author Share Posted October 10, 2014 Sounds like an alarm/immobiliser cutting in too me, does it have one? Are you getting fuel? Can you here the pump priming if so It does have one, but I'm not 100% sure of how it works. I've contacted the last owner to see if he can shine any light on the topic. Makes sense to rule out if this is the security kicking in or an actual mechanic issue before I go any further. Could be the temperature sensor, maybe a bit unplugged or smth like that. Had the similar case on my last TT6. Did not start at cold, well at warm temp. Thanks will check over that Does sound like it's not even trying to start. I'd make sure fuel was getting there. And there's a spark. Are the leads in the correct way? King lead connected? Forgive my ignorance but where can I find the king lead? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Al Massey Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 It does have one, but I'm not 100% sure of how it works. I've contacted the last owner to see if he can shine any light on the topic. Makes sense to rule out if this is the security kicking in or an actual mechanic issue before I go any further. Thanks will check over that Forgive my ignorance but where can I find the king lead? The king lead is the centre lead in the distributer and comes across to the wing into a little box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 Pull the air filter trunking off, squirt Easy Start into the engine side of it, crank engine. Does it fire? Yes? You have a no fuel issue. No? You have a no or (very very) weak spark issue. Halves the potential issues with one squirt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted October 10, 2014 Author Share Posted October 10, 2014 Pull the air filter trunking off, squirt Easy Start into the engine side of it, crank engine. Does it fire? Yes? You have a no fuel issue. No? You have a no or (very very) weak spark issue. Halves the potential issues with one squirt. Didn't have any Easy Start or similar at hand, so decided to check on the sparks. Think it's fair to say they have seen better days. Picking up some NGK 38 Spark Plug (x4) BKR5EYA-11 tomorrow morning and will swap them out and try again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 So today I fitted the new spark plugs, gave the car some new fuel & bought some easy start to test some more. Compared to yesterday I'm now getting a few spits of ignition, which I guess is progress, but ultimately the car still isn't firing. The engine (as seen in video) also sounds a little different when cranking now, which I think is a good thing? Tomorrow I'm thinking of going over all the engine sensors, making sure they are clean. Also will check the grounding to make sure there aren't any loose ends. From the sound the engine is making now when trying to start has anyone got any other suggestions for what I can try? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheTurtleshead Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 Check the vacuum hose going to the MAP sensor. On the bulkhead behind the intake manifold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 If it's a manual you could try tow starting it, but it would be more scientific to get it to fire up on the starter motor. Do you KNOW it ran perfectly when it was laid up, or have you just been told that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted October 11, 2014 Author Share Posted October 11, 2014 If it's a manual you could try tow starting it, but it would be more scientific to get it to fire up on the starter motor. Do you KNOW it ran perfectly when it was laid up, or have you just been told that? I don't KNOW as I wasn't there at the time, but have been told it was running fine. From my interactions with the last owner, I wouldn't suspect him to be lying about it, but who knows. Either way this will be fixed. What difference would tow starting the car make? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 11, 2014 Share Posted October 11, 2014 It'll turn over a damned sight faster and with no starter load sapping voltage. If it won't start at 2 or 3 thousand RPM it isn't going to start at all, as is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j-a-y Posted October 12, 2014 Share Posted October 12, 2014 humm i had this problem when my one had to be layd up for good a year. i say it's trying to start just put the pedal to the floor and keep turning the key and it will fire up thats what i did... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted October 12, 2014 Author Share Posted October 12, 2014 It'll turn over a damned sight faster and with no starter load sapping voltage. If it won't start at 2 or 3 thousand RPM it isn't going to start at all, as is. Will see if I can get that done tomorrow and will report back, hope it works humm i had this problem when my one had to be layd up for good a year. i say it's trying to start just put the pedal to the floor and keep turning the key and it will fire up thats what i did... I'll keep trying! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 Turns out I'm not getting any spark, so I guess that's the first issue. As N/A's don't have a crank position sensor, does this mean I need to get a new distributor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Not necessarily, the trigger part is separate from the rotor switching of the high tension. You need to see if the disi is outputting a trigger signal to the ecu, and if the igniter box is triggering the coil. Don't just thro bits at it in the hope *something* might work. A garage should be able to tell which area is faulty in 30 minutes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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