Mike's White Widearch N/A Supra Project

[Frank Bullitt]

Chris Wilson sells a decent replacement filter foam should you decide this is the route you want to take

[Mike2JZ]

Did I not read on here the mushroom intake filters disintegrate and end up in the engine intake manifold and worse? Not trying to p on your bonfire! Just seen it on here.

 

Edit think its the green ones that break up.

 

Chris Wilson sells a decent replacement filter foam should you decide this is the route you want to take

 

You are probably right, though I've used HKS filters previously without any issue, and the one I bought was a tenner so I'm not expecting much from it. This air filter is not intended for long term use, it is still better then running no air filter whilst I'm moving the car around the unit.

 

The issue I have is that the NA stock airbox I have does not fit in it's usual place, given that there is now an intercooler pipe that comes across onto the front of the air intake area.

 

I need to source a TT stock airbox soon, as the outlet pipe on those is at a different angle and will fit in with the current pipework setup. Or, I need to spent the equivalent of a stock TT airbox on new hoses for the intercooler and air intake piping in order to fit the NA airbox.

 

Anyway it will be sorted out in due course after all the paintwork etc.

 

b;4189775']Looking great dude!

Just wondering, Does it require a lot of work to fit the 1J ?

 

To summarize, not really. No different to removing/installing a 2JZGE/GTE. Everything bolts into place where it should.

The only major difference is that you need to adapt some of the plugs/pins from the 1JZGTE engine loom to fit the MKIV Supra interior loom.

[Hitbox Junkie]

Looking good man. What sort of power is the 1jz going to be putting down?

[Mike2JZ]

Looking good man. What sort of power is the 1jz going to be putting down?

 

Factory boost (8 psi) should have it around 270-280. Maxing the turbo's out safely should be around 350 (~14psi). Going higher then that could bring more but could also kill the turbo's quicker.

[JamieP]

Doing a great job there Mike.

[Mike2JZ]

Plans have changed slightly recently.

 

Looks like I might be made redundant from my current workplace which means I have to fast forward getting the car back on the road asap and forego painting the car for the moment. Bit of an annoyance, but thats life, will just have to be patient till paint can be done.

 

Mechanically the car seems to be driving fine around the 'private' roads at my unit just fine. During the day I'm averaging 8-10psi on boost, but at night when it's been so cold I'm going to 14psi and hitting fuel cut. So might need a FCD soon.

 

Had a small leak from last radiator, so sourced a new one with a new thermostat from TCB parts. Overnight parts from Plymouth

 

Couldn't find any "bling" radiators that also had ports for the auto cooler without spending some serious money, so the OEM replacement will do fine for my needs.

 

 

Next up was the IACV which I suspect has any issue, as the 1J warm idle can go as low as 600rpm sometimes, and other times it's fine. Unplugging the IACV should cause some sort of reaction from the ECU, but currently there is no change if the engine is cold or warm.

 

 

Had a spare that I cleaned/installed and cross checked and still no change. So next up is to diagnose the electronics.

 

Following some of the forum feedback regarding Grams Styling, I went in person to go visit their workshop in Dartford and can say the panels and skirts I got from them were of good quality. No complaints from me there so far.

 

Side skirt fitment looks good. Just being held in by the door

 

 

Waiting to pickup a stock rear bumper next week and then I can install these rear arches.

 

 

Been tossing and turning between riveting the kit on, or using rivnuts so panels are easily removable. Decided on rivnuts in the end. Should be a fun game drilling into the rear arch and getting everything equal on both sides.

 

Need to grab some photo's, but the sills have all been finished now. So nothing else to do on the underside of the car for the moment.

 

 

My rear diff bush is on it's way out, and got a pair of solid PHR diff mounts for a great price. I'm a bit worried about NVH, especially as reviews online seem to be a bit mixed about how harsh they are. For the money I paid, I'll be happy to give them a go and report back. They are just push in's, so can always put in some oem ones if they turn out to be terrible. Hopefully get's rid of the thumping sound from the diff when shifting gears like a monkey.

 

MOT is booked in for Saturday 28th, so once I've got the stock rear bumper it will be go time to get the car ready for the road again.

[Chris Wilson]

You MUST NOT try and use those solid bushes with rubber ones on the front ears, the loads into the diff casing and rear of the subframe will be horrendous. Solid rears MUST be used with solid fronts...

[Mike2JZ]

You MUST NOT try and use those solid bushes with rubber ones on the front ears, the loads into the diff casing and rear of the subframe will be horrendous. Solid rears MUST be used with solid fronts...

 

Fronts have been 'upgraded' to hard poly bushes. Not running stock rubbers. I'd rather break something and learn first hand.

[Mike2JZ]

Been a while since last update and a lot has been going on.

 

So after receiving all the bits for my ridox rear end, it was time to get it installed.

 

Started by stripping off the old veilside arches and cleaning up the old sealer and surface rust where the old arches had rubbed through the paint.

 

 

Then applied some new sealant to protect the welds and seal up old rivet holes.

 

 

Followed by some primer

 

 

And finished off with a coat of Super white II 040, but forgot to grab some pics. Wasn't the best paint job in the world, but it's hidden by the new arches. At least the arches are rust free and re-sealed, so shouldn't have to worry about that for another few years.

 

Next was to strip off the rear end, so a stock bumper could be fitted.

 

 

Kinda wish I had spent some time to paint the bumper looking back on it now, but I was impatient and didn't have enough paint, so I'll have to return to painting it another time.

 

 

I then rivnutted the rear arch kit on, held in with small countersunk bolts.

 

 

Really need to grab some better photos, but the finished product with the new skirts and rear end looked like:

 

 

With all that done, it was time for an MOT. Took it to a new MOT garage and the tester was quite strict, failing for silly things like missing rear fog light and rear seat belts.

 

He did however identify that my passengerside front lower arm balljoint was really fooked, which I'm thankful for. So it was back to the garage to get a new arm on.

 

 

Stuck a temporary fog light on the rear and removed my back seats entirely and went through the next MOT with no issues.

[Mike2JZ]

After that I went back to using the supra as a daily and the 1J was running smooth. The wastegates on the twins were a little worn, or just couldn't keep up with a larger exhaust than stock and I was boosting at 10psi before creeping to 14 on pulls. Sometimes hitting fuel cut if it was cold outside.

 

Not that I really minded the extra boost.

 

Then one night I decided to do an indoor rolling burnout to christen the new unit me and some friends had moved into. Shortly after I noted a strange noise from the rear end.

 

I'm sure this will make Chris Wilson happy, but the solid diff mount completely ripped the diff casing mount off So I learnt the hardway and can now confirm that you should not run solid mounts without running solids all the way around the diff

 

 

Managed to source another diff cover from a kind forum member and stuck a polybush mount in instead and no more broken diff covers

 

Didn't really have anything too interesting happen to the car after that. Was just saving for 1JZ BPU parts. Bought an Apexi SAFC, Innovcate Wideband, Apexi AVC-R. And was totally set on maxing out the twins as far as I could before thinking about upgrading anything else.

 

Then whilst browsing through some adverts, I found someone selling a GT35 single turbo kit for a 1JZ, and before I knew what happened I was on the way to pick it up.

 

Got back to the garage, took a final picture of the twins and got them off as fast as I could.

 

 

Aside from some exhaust manifold studs snapping and requiring some welding to get them out, the single install went quite smoothly.

 

 

Current setup is:

- eBay special GT35 .70/.68 turbo

- Japspeed 3mm steel braced manifold + wrap

- Japspeed 3'' downpipe

- eBay special 44mm wastegate with scream routed behind driverside wheel

[Mike2JZ]

The single setup is in and working, but I still need quite a few parts to optimize the setup before I start cranking the boost up.

 

I can hear the turbo spooling at around 2'500 and building boost just after 3'000. But using the stock 1JZ ECU, the ignition table is still setup for stock twins and the ignition is not aggressive enough downlow to take advantage of the turbo. So I'm still only getting full power after 4'000 even with dialing in the SAFC to be adjust the fueling to give between 11.5-12.0 AFR on full boost.

 

It's still good fun, but all this piggyback crap is annoying me so looking at getting a link standalone very soon.

 

Overall, even with this unotimized setup, I much prefer the single over the twins. Can't complain when the waste gate starts screaming.

 

Drove around with the single setup for about a week having a blast.

 

 

Then after a prolonged spirited drive down the motorway I started smelling oil, pulled over and heard some knocking and watching loads of smoke come out the PCV outlet on the rocker cover. Oh dear.

 

Not to sure on the exact reason still. Compression on the engine wasn't amazing to begin with ever since I bought the engine, and AFR's and knock detection were spot on until it went bang all of a sudden. Perhaps leaning on the engine for so long just killed off what was left of the rings from the heat.

 

So had to leave the Supra where it was until I could get my recovery friend to pick it up two days later. Spent the day in bed after the engine went feeling sorry for myself. Come Sunday morning I was up at the crack of dawn, got the Supra recovered and got that engine out and stripped as fast as possible.

 

 

I went over all the bottom end bearings, checking for damage and checking oil clearances. Miraculously every bearing and crank journal still looked mint, so whatever had happened hadn't circulated any particles that did big damage.

 

Then I removed the head and started checking out the pistons.

 

I can't remember what pistons had gone, but about half of them shared this sort of damage. Pistons had been rubbing on the cylinder wall, siezing in the 1st/2nd oil ring to the point that it was just letting gases and oil through.

 

The tune I was running was quite safe, so I'm not sure if this was caused from running lean or not. AFR's never indicated this as being a problem at least. No sign of pre det on the pistons either.

 

Piston that was still in ok nick. See how the top ring hasnt been siezed into place, and is still able to move around and form a seal.

 

 

Taking apart the engine showed that the bottom end bearings and rings had already been replaced by a previous owner. So begs more questions as to what the history of this engine was.

 

Either way, the block and pistons were toast.

 

Luckily for me though. I had a friend with a 1JZ that had a spun bearing that donated me the engine to get me on the road again until I build another engine to put back in mine.

 

With the help of a friend we transferred my crank and bearings into the new block that night and had the car running again by 4am. I drove it into work the next morning to the shock of most people.

 

Have put a couple of hundred miles on the 'new' 1JZ already and so far so good.

 

Meanwhile, in my spare time in the evenings I have started building the next engine out of an old GE block.

 

 

1.5J time.

 

The 2JZ block I've got is in good nick, but has been sitting outside for a while and has had some water enter the oil return holes through the head due to loosly placed rocker covers. So everything is being stripped out, before getting it cleaned internally and put back together with some new rings/gaskets etc.

 

More on that soon!

[The Raven]

Keep busy dude, summer is coming which means mine and colins will be allowed out in daylight hours.

 

Be able to get some great photos done.

[Annabella]

Wow what a weekend, good stuff.

[Mike2JZ]

Not a massive update, but the GE block has been fully stripped now.

 

Got lucky with this bottom end, all the bearings looked really nice. Crank spun nice and free, oil was nice and golden. Off to a good start in that respect

 

 

 

 

Only thing I couldn't get out tonight was the oil gallery ball bearings. Welded a large bolt to try and get them off, but the weld broke before the ball bearing came free. Might have to let the machine shop try to get that out for me unless anyone has any tips.

 

The planned spec for the 1.5j so far is:

 

- Stock GE block

- TT pistons and new rings

- Quick hone for the cylinder walls just to freshen them up

- GTE oil pump

- 1JZ head gasket

 

Going with a mostly stock setup, as I'm not shooting for crazy power. But just freshen everything up as best I can.

[TheTurtleshead]

Drill the bearing at one end, use a lond rod to push the one at the opposite side out, then you can use a fatter rod to push the drilled one out from the other end.

[Mike2JZ]

Some more recent happenings.

 

Single was running ok. Started upping the boost more and more to about 1.3 bar, then one day I noticed my boost was still climbing, but not holding at my peak target.

Also couldn't hear the turbo chatter like normal off boost.

 

Got the smoke leak test machine on the inlet side and immediately found a big leak right by the turbo inlet.

 

 

How it still boosted with this massive gash I have no idea

 

 

New sillicone joiner and the boost was back to normal. Going to replace this section of sillicone with a metal 90 joiner to eliminate this problem in future. I'm guessing the heat from sitting right next to the manifold had something to do with it splitting.

 

Next up was to begin cleaning and refreshing the bottom end components for the 1.5JZ build.

 

Took me about 15 hours of pure elbow grease, but got the pistons from this:

 

 

to this:

 

 

Was super hard to get the piston ringlands clean, but got there in the end through sheer stubbornness with some delicate tools. Think I'll buy new pistons new time, just so I don't have to do that process again

 

Next the 2JZGTE oil pump I've got was fully stripped, tolerances checked and oil relief port ported out to 5mm.

 

 

 

Block was sent away in this time to get honed, decked and oil ways cleaned. Upon return, I used a set of king racing bearings for the main and rod bearings

 

 

Head was also sent away to get skimmed before coming back to get re-assembled.

 

 

Chose to use a 2mm Tomei 1JZ Headgasket, as I'm running GE pistons. It's quite a large headgasket to use, so will be a bit of an experiment to see if I get any issues with the headgasket blowing. In terms of compression, I will be running around 8.7:1 with this setup. Hopefully it works, if not I'll drop the bottom end and run some GTE pistons and normal GTE headgasket.

 

 

Running some ARP head studs, hopefully got enough strength behind them to keep the headgasket sealed.

 

 

Block painted, new core plugs all around, head attached

 

 

Next up will be the final bits of the engine assembly, followed by a quick engine break in using the stock 1JZ ECU before ripping out all the current electronics and wiring in my Link standalone

[Hitbox Junkie]

Coming along really nicely.

[The Raven]

Nice work dude,

 

Come along way from the guy i met all them years ago!

[Mike2JZ]

Pulled the engine out to get engine bay ready for new 1.5JZ to drop in.

 

Wanted to refresh the engine bay paint with Super White 040, like my chassis left the factory with as mine was looking quite tired.

 

 

Stripped and sanded

 

 

Anti Rust / Etch Primer

 

 

Filler Primer

 

 

Final primer layer + sand/smooth

 

 

New paint on

 

 

1.5JZ pretty much ready to go. Just have some tomei cam gears to go on, but more detail in next post

 

[AC93]

Nice update, looking forward to the next set of booooost vids

[Mike2JZ]

Tomei cam pulleys arrived finally. Build quality seems good and the pulleys are much lighter than the stock pulleys.

 

 

Making sure adjustment of pulley matched TDC on pistons

 

 

Also changed my stock SMIC setup to a chris wilson SMIC. Not brand new, but definitely in better nick than my last setup.

 

 

Engine and drivetrain back in

 

 

Quick bare essential start up to check oil pressure and get some heat in the engine for a compression check

 

 

I removed one of the oil relief springs from the 2JZGTE oil pump as I'm running a GE block, which has less oil galleries. Bit of an experiment to see what happens really, if needed I will drop the second spring back in.

 

But on first/cold start the oil pressure is reading at 5 bar or just under which is more or less where it needs to be. Will have to monitor pressure once engine has been fully warmed up and under different load conditions, but off to a good start so far.

 

First compression check after the first start showed 195-200 psi across all cylinders. Again not a bad result given the engine is slightly higher compression than a factory 2JZGTE. Will have to continuously monitor compression readings to make sure the rings are bedded in properly, but happy with the first test.

 

The only major issue I have at the moment is the injectors. I switched back to using the 1JZ 380cc injectors from the 440's I was using previously and on idle my AFR's are reading between 16.5-17 which is a tad lean for my liking. 1JZ stock ecu is obviously optimized for a 2.5 litre displacement, so the added displacement from the 2J bottom end could be drawing more air than expected.

 

I will be sticking in the larger 440's back in when I get a chance to see if the AFR's can regulate themselves near 14.7 on idle. If that makes no change then I will be forced to fast forward my standalone plans and wire one in asap in order to gain control over the engine again. I just wanted to use the 1JZ ecu to run the engine in without having to faff with setting up a tune on a standalone, but I also don't want to run any leaner than I need to in the early stages of the engines break in.

[Supra.SZ-R]

She is looking and sounding great.

[The Raven]

Top work dude

[Mike2JZ]

So following on from last time...

 

I stuck the 440 injectors back in, and the AFR's at idle were slightly better but still to lean. Without the stock narrowband still installed, I don't think the stock ECU could manage a closed loop fueling strategy.

 

So instead of risking a lean condition I ripped out the stock ECU and loom and got ready to wire in a Link ECU.

 

 

Would of loved a Link Thunder as it would let me run the traction control system through the stock ABS sensors, but my budget didn't stretch that far this time round, so opted for a Link Storm (Black Instead).

 

Also got an A + B loom that could be wired in from scratch so I could get rid of my old 20 year old stock loom and hopefully make the engine loom more streamlined.

 

 

First up was to make a rough map on paper of what sensors/inputs/outputs I would be wanting to run, before removing any non essential pins from the A & B looms and grouping the remaining wires by function to allow for a less messy install.

 

 

Looks pretty messy, but this was the early stages of sorting out wiring routing. After that I just needed to cut the loom to size and start integrating/soldering on the 1JZ/2JZ connectors (injectors, MAP, ECT, IAT, Crank/Cam etc.)

 

Whilst getting every above wired up, I also changed my ignition system. My old toyota coils weren't in great shape and I didn't fancy shelling out a small fortune for new ones. I switched to using VAG Ignition coils

 

 

Been using these on a few high power 2J projects at work and so far have no ignition related failures. All 6 with the appropriate plugs and wiring for £200, costing about £20 to replace if one ever fails. Sorted.

 

As these coils have an igniter module built into the coil itself, which meant I could also scrap the 2J igniter pack and run the ECU ignition signal straight to the coil. Only downside is that they sit a tiny bit higher than the 1JZ rocker cover, so I can't run the top cover without using washers.

 

Terrible photo, but this was the loom after most of the the sensor and wires had be run where they needed to go.

 

 

The loom was also fully integrated into the factory fusebox/relay setup, so all the relays and fuses controlling power to the ECU/Coils/Injectors/Sensors are protected in a similar fashion to how it left the factory. Why re-create the wheel if it works good

 

To get the ball rolling, I'm still basically running the complete stock sensor setup (MAP/TPS/ECT/IAT/Knock/Low Oil/Crank/Cam etc) on the car as they can all be configured for use with the Link. So didn't have to spend a fortune on new sensors, though no doubt I will be upgrading the MAP sensor and knock sensors in future if this gets round to making some serious power in the future.

 

Once everything was wired up, spent some time configuring the ECU for the first start and it fired first time.

 

 

After that I gave it a quick fuel and ignition map to run the engine around 2500 rpm for 30 minutes to put the rings through their paces and get the oil flowing round the engine, whilst checking for leaks and monitoring oil pressure and system temperatures.

 

 

All temperatures were holding steady, oil pressure was reading nicely within spec, no leaks. Feeling pretty good at this point.

 

Did a compression check after and all cylinders reading between 195-200 psi still.

 

Dropped the oil out after and after checking for any contamintions/metal etc, everything looked good. So new oil and filter and time to get ready to get a safe road map on it.

Edited August 1, 2017 by Mike2JZ (see edit history)

[Mike2JZ]

The next step of the build was to get a safe tune on the car so I could start using it for my daily trip to work. From there I could continue to check the break in process, add in a few more sensors and tweak the setup with the aim of getting it ready for a proper dyno tune with some proper boost once I felt everything was solid.

 

To begin I started off with a really uninspring and low/flat ignition map so the fuel could be mapped on low/medium/high throttle conditions. After a few trips up and down the motorway, the fuel side of things had been dialed in and has been mapped on the richer side to promote a safe tune.

 

From there I got my knock detection equipment hooked up so I could configure the Link ECU knock detection/prevention system.

 

 

The phormula knock analyser pro allows you to connect an independant knock sensor to the engine which can be listened to via a set of headphones inside the car. At first I had the sensor connected to the inlet manifold, and even though knock could be heard when we induced it at 2000 rpm low load, you could hear everything from the throttle plate opening to the influx of boost entering the manifold which made it harder to hear what we were interested in.

 

The sensor was then moved to the block in between cylinders 4/5, which produced much clearer audio of the pistons doing their thing. From there, I tuned the individual cylinder knock gain levels, which allows the ECU to have an idea about how far each cylinder is from each of the stock knock sensors. Which allows it to control ignition/fuel trims on a per cylinder basis.

 

Then it was back on the road, and using the link I could increase the ignition advance at 2000rpm for just cylinder 5. Any knock at this point was much more audible on the headphones and allowed for easier configuration of the knock detection system on the Link. Currently, any frequencies exceeding a certain threshold will trigger the knock system, and the engine will pull ignition timing back on the offending cylinder until the frequency is below the threshold.

 

All of the above was pretty overkill considering I am running a really tame ignition map, but always makes me sleep better knowing the ECU can take care of shit on the off chance it occurs at this stage of the tuning process.

 

After that was setup the ignition map was tuned a little so the powerband didn't feel to flat, but still no where near the optimum of what the engine can produce, but that will be revisited later when I've got a Dyno to play with.

 

Already on my list of things to buy is some more modern bosch wideband knock sensors, which seem to give clearer signals to the ECU. The stock knock sensors seem to be quite noisy when checking their signal outputs on the ECU logs. Can't really say I'm surprised with a 20 year old design