Mike's White Widearch N/A Supra Project

[Mike2JZ]

Done about 500 miles on the setup so far, and this is how the engine bay is looking.

 

 

Cosmetics

• Turbo compressor housing painted wrinkle black
  
• Intercooler couplings changed from blue to black.
  
• 4'' intake pipe made and painted wrinkle black
  

Electronics

• All gauges aside from AFR removed from interior
  
• Oil pressure and Oil temperature sensors wired to the Link ECU
  
• Gearbox speed sensor connected to Link, which outputs to speedometer.
  
• Closed loop fuel control implemented
  
• IACV setup to react to different idle RPM targets using a 3D map controlling IACV opening % based on coolant temperatures. Also complemented with closed loop ignition idle control.
  

 

Engine Protection Strategies

• Overboost protection (ign%cut)
  
• Lean condition protection (rev limit)
  
• Engine Coolant/Intake & Oil temperature too cold or too hot limits (rev limit)
  
• Oil pressure going under a certain threshold will limit RPM and if it drops really low it will turn off the engine.
  
• Knock detection
  

 

Motorsport

• Launch control setup with handbrake switch, builds 5 psi off the line and makes all the right noises/flames
  
• Anti-lag cylic idle control (can't really see me ever using it, but couldn't resist setting it up does sound badass )
  

 

 

 

I've gotta say, at the moment I'm loving the wrinkle black paint. I've named it poor mans polish.

 

When I first got my 1JZ at the end of last year, this was my first attempt at doing wrinkle black on rocker covers following the instructions on the tin.

 

 

Looks pretty disgusting.

 

But now I've cracked the secret to getting a much smoother oem-like finish

 

 

So I just need to pull my finger out and strip & paint the old rocker cover like this one

 

Other than that I'm pretty content with how the engine bay looks. Just need to wire in a few more sensors soon for fuel pressure/temperature, then I can pull the inlet manifold back off and do a final tidy up of wires for the ABS pump and getting the OEM firewall wire sheath back on

 

Obligatory tunnel soundcheck video @ wastegate pressure [7psi]

 

Edited August 2, 2017 by Mike2JZ (see edit history)

[Mike2JZ]

Basically I'm at the stage where I'm looking to get it onto a dyno to do the first optimized tune at wastegate pressure, but I've got two issues holding me back right now.

 

Just today I noticed one/both? of the cam seals have been weeping slightly. Back when I built the engine I ordered 2JZ cam seals, forgetting the 1JZ cam seals are a different size. So I re-used my old one as I was too impatient to wait for new ones to be delivered. Well that bit me in the ass, but its just a cam seal so no big deal to change.

 

The next issue is the one that is doing my nut in and I refuse to risk it on the dyno until I get it sorted.

 

I noticed that if I boost through the gears changing quickly then every is all good. But if I boost up to 6k then come off the throttle and put the engine into high vaccuum under deceleration for a few seconds, then the next time I go on the throttle I get grey/blue oil smoke from the exhaust. There is no smoke at any other time otherwise, and I've made sure it's not a tune related issue from over fueling.

 

For the last three days, I've done a dry & wet compression test followed by a leak down test each day. The results I'm getting are solid. 195-200 psi on both dry/wet compression, and leak down is showing between 9-14% on each cylinder, with no noise coming out of the intake/exhaust.

 

From those results I'm pretty confident it's not a ring seal issue on the bottom end, and the valves seem to be in good shape as well, they were reseated before being installed as well.. Which leaves me looking at either a failing turbo seal or valve stem seal/valve guide.

 

I've messed with the PCV breather system, checked the PCV valves operation and even removed it completely so both rockers vent to atmosphere and no difference, so I don't think it caused from crank case pressure.

 

Next on the list was to check the turbo. There is no back and forth play, and a normal amount of side to side for a journal bearing turbo. The intake side pipes are as dry as when I installed them, and the downpipe/exhaust turbine shows no fresh oil marks, just some soot from where the oil has passed through the exhaust system.

 

The oil feed has a small restrictor on it already, as supplied with the kit and I re-routed the oil drain to be 100% gravity based, as previously it was possible that there could have been a small built up of oil in the drain line.

 

New drain routing made no difference, still smokes.

 

So got some new cam seals and valve stem seal set incoming, and I will be smashing out both tomorrow to see if it makes any difference. Will check valve guides for any play whilst I'm at it and hoping its not that. Hopefully just a valve stem seal which was installed incorrectly, or maybe the supertech valve stem seals are just crap. Plenty of people on google seem to have leaking issues with new supertech seals.

 

Anyway, other than that car runs great, so once that issue is sorted I can get it on the dyno and see what she's really got

[Mike2JZ]

Got some 1JZ cam seals overnighted from Durham, Japan.

 

Got the cam gears off from the engine and it was definitely one cam seal leaking nicely.

 

 

Oh hello there leak

 

 

Old seal was hard as nails, compared to the slightly rubbery feel of the new ones.

 

Next the cams came out and the valve stem seal replacement began.

 

 

^ my favorite job with the head still on

 

Blue seal is a 2JZ supertech exhaust seal vs the silver oem replacement for 1JZGTE that I sourced through (BGA Automotive - VK4394).

 

 

The diameter that fits over the valve stem is different, supertech ones looked a tad loose (5.5mm) compared to the snug fit of the BGA ones (5mm). All other dimensions of the valve seal were almost identical otherwise.

 

Internal pattern seems similar too, though the new seals gave a very nice double click once seated on the valve guide.

 

 

I thought to myself at this point that this 0.5mm difference around the valve stem on the seals themselves was causing the issue.

 

Intake valves looked ok as well.

 

 

Put everything back on, fitted the new seals and gave the car an oil/filter change. No more cam seal leak

 

 

but it still smooookes.

 

Again, start up is clean, lo throttle driving is clean, lo vacuum is clean. on boost is clean, high rpm vacuum followed by a tap of the throttle and boom a big cloud of white/blue smoke.

 

I noticed a very small amount of oil near the throttle body valve, and intake runners when having the cams out. Even though everything from turbo cold side to intercooler seems dry. Possibly there is oil in the used CW intercooler I put on? Surely would of passed through the system after 500 miles of driving by now? Seems highly unlikely, but is one theory.

 

Anyway, so that leaves me with a turbo seal failing or my piston rings aren't working as intended, even though compression/leak down is good. I'm thinking I'll get a smaller turbo oil feed restrictor to make a quick/cheap test to rule out the turbo and go from there if problem persists.

 

Other than that though, really happy with the car.

 

Borrowed some wheels off a friend to see if they would look any good on the car. Offsets are off by miles, but I'm still ooo-ing and ahh-ing about if I should get a set of these for mine

 

 

[Chris Bailey]

Car looked great on Friday mate, hope you got home ok with no issues. I love the Rota wheels, just need to be in the correct size and offset to complement the rear arches.

[TheTurtleshead]

Sounds like a fucked turbo to me!

[Mike2JZ]

So on my quest to figure out what was causing the smoke. Next up to was the change the turbo before going on a 1400 mile trip into Europe and back.

 

£150 later I had a new replacement 't70' eBay special turbo, and I was able to just switch the cores over and go.

 

 

So looking at the photo above, a couple of things annoyed me.

 

Due to design of manifold and turbo I'm using, there is bugger all clearance for the oil return line and annoyingly the oil return fitting basically sat right above the manifold.

 

Secondly, the turbo elbow coupler was really quite stretched and forced into place, it worked but wasn't sitting naturally.

 

Thirdly, due to the location of the oil return fittings, I couldn't get the last turbo housing bolt in securely, and couldn't rotate the housing as it either hit the manifold or strut tower. typical. so had to deal with a small boost leak from the compressor housing.

 

But with no time left it would have to do, and I set off into Europe for a week. No major hiccups from the engine, however the heated 8 hour drive each way in 35 degrees sun started to show a weakness in the Haas TT coilpacks.

 

 

Even with the dwell times on the coils set correctly, some of the coils experienced some melting on the areas circled above. Not the end of the world, just started getting some misfires on boost. Once the engine was cold it was ok again until the coils got really hot from the ambient temp again. Luckily I had some spares in the boot I was able to swap out as well

 

The oil return oil fitting also decided to shit the bed and start weeping oil due to the o-ring getting melted sitting so close to the manifold. Again not a catastrophic issue, just had to top oil every now and then.

 

Met up with member 'Supra.SZ-R' in Switzerland and has some fun disrupting the peace ragging the supra through the peaceful landscape one evening before heading back home.

 

Once I got home it was time for next round of maintenance / upgrades.

 

Got rid of the stock fuel pulsation dampener and run AN6 lines & fittings from the fuel filter straight to the rail. Also got an inline fuel pressure sensor installed so my Link could keep track of that.

 

 

Following that I smoke tested the car and could see the leak from the compressor housing and from under the wing, on one of the stock rubber couplings that went to the sidemount. The SMIC's cooling performance from what I could see on my IAT logs wasn't as great as I expected, but could be down to not having the factory ducts for it. Sold it to another member and put the money towards a FMIC kit that came off another members single turbo.

 

 

The FMIC was used, but in still decent nick. Of course what should of been a 20 minute job turned into a ballache. Guess I was being a bit optimistic thinking that everything would just fit.

 

Not a single pipe was going to work as I wanted it to without it fouling on the viscous fan or other parts. The kit came with custom 80mm pipework even though the intercooler outlets flanges were 70mm. So already I wanted to convert the system to use 70mm across the board.

 

[Mike2JZ]

After measuring up what was needed for the 70mm pipework routing and ordering them I then looked towards switching my ignition coils.

 

I opted to go with audi R8 coils which sit a bit higher, and are have a solid metal section rather than a split metal section found on the TT coils previously. From experience at work, these are a lot more reliable. Just need to find them in black for the future

 

Also ordered in an oil catch can, AN10 fittings, AN 10 lines. The AN10 Fittings used a 1/2 thread hole, so cam covers had to come off, baffles removed and 17mm holes drilled in place of the stock PCV ports, before being tapped and the fittings could be screwed in, baffles re-sealed and re-installed.

 

 

 

Also got a bracket for the boost solenoid which now sits on the bulkhead rather than dangling on zipties. Used some braided lines for the wastegate ports so they would have less chance of melting.

 

 

The day before supra pod the pipework arrived for the intercooler. So in a mad overnighter I started mocking up all the pipework, new compressor housing, and started making a new hardline return line from an R33 turbo T3 return flange.

 

11:00PM, need to be up at 04:30am to get to SupraPod. Fml

 

 

 

Somehow managed to get all the pipework tig welded, and painted crinkle black and everything installed back at 02:30.

 

 

Went out for a quick test, and blew an intercooler pipe straight off on the first pull. Felt like a kick in the teeth, but got the car back in the workshop, had an hours sleep. Got up and managed to get the pipe secured using a jack to push it up into place.

 

You can see below it's a bit tight on that joiner, where I didn't make the pipe long enough but has been holding recently. Need to go back and extend the pipe slightly in future.

 

 

On the plus side, new turbo return won't melt now, and gives enough clearance for the new turbo housing to be secured properly and no more crappy rubber silicone 90 on the compressor housing.

 

Absolutely knackered but made it to SupraPod. Drove it all the way without touching boost not wanting to risk blowing that pipe off again. Up until a GTR near SantaPod came up behind me and I said sod it. Put my foot down and it boosted. Couldn't believe it, quickly turned my laptop on, turned the boost up and started playing with the GTR all the way to Pod.

 

 

Didn't take the car up the strip cause W58 life, but was a good day out. Nearly died on the way home falling asleep at the wheel, but all good otherwise

Edited November 7, 2017 by Mike2JZ (see edit history)

[Mike2JZ]

Oh also forgot to mention that the smoking seems to be a lot better now with the new turbo and breather system as I can't see a smokescreen out the back anymore like I did before after re-appling throttle after the engine has been in high vacuum. There's probably still a bit, but I've done pretty much everything to address the smoking other than taking the block apart.

 

If I can scrap together a good enough xmas bonus then I'll try building another block bored out to 86.5, rather than using a used 86mm block that had been honed.

 

So anyway, this is how the engine is looking currently.

 

 

So with no more boost leaks, oil returns failing etc it's back to getting the car ready for the dyno.

 

Upgraded my stock knock sensors to Bosch ones

 

 

Also installed an EGT sensor & EGT AMP to bridge between the sensor and link ecu. Will have to mount the sensor post turbo for now which isn't ideal, but will still give me some idea of whats going on until I can be bothered to tap it into the manifold pre turbo.

 

 

EGT Amp from Finland. Quality seems really nice and nice to see individual calibration was carried out on it. Not to shabby for $40

 

 

Since installing the fuel pressure sensor I noticed that once I started turning up the boost past 10 psi the injectors were starting to struggle to stay under 100% duty cycle. Not that 440 injectors are going to give me huge headroom on fueling anyway, but they should be able to handle 10psi+ on this turbo. AFR's are still ok, but defintately on the limit.

 

Looking at my fuel pressure showed that something was definately not keeping up.

 

 

The stock regulator is rising pressure as boost pressure rises, but struggles hard to keep pressure stable.

 

Doing some calculations for the stock 190lph fuel pump, it was showing that it would start to struggle to flow enough fuel at this point. So I swapped it for a 255 walbro

 

 

Immediately saw better results and could boost higher than before. Should get even better results if I upgrade the stock fuel pump wires and get it reading closer to 13/14v rather than 12v. Obviously need to optimize the map on the dyno, but should mean that the next fuel part that is the bottleneck will be the injectors.

 

 

So the car is more or less ready now and we just took delivery of this in the workshop. Should be able to give it a whirl this weekend

 

 

Edited November 19, 2017 by Mike2JZ (see edit history)

[clay]

Looking good mike.

[Mike2JZ]

This week I finally got let loose on the Dyno to start from scratch on my ECU tune.

 

So before wiping everything I did a quick baseline pull of my road tune, getting 245hp/271ft.lbs @ flywheel on 5-6psi. Was running closer to 300hp sitting at 10psi boost with this same tune. Pretty uninspiring numbers but the tune did the job of keeping the engine in one piece ready for this moment.

 

 

After getting the baseline out the way. I started tuning the fuel & some ignition timing on wastegate pressure. With that sorted, I slowly started raising the boost and working through the fueling and ignition for each new row as boost was increased. I did this until about 4500 rpm, before having to extrapolate the rest of the cells in higher rpm's and tuning on full ramp runs instead.

 

After reaching 100% duty cycle on my boost solenoid, I was getting to around 1.1/1.2 bar of boost with the 7 psi wastegate spring, which is about right. A quick pull with all the boost my setup was going to give me resulted in 345hp/379ft.lbs @ the flywheel.

 

At this point I had an issue where my fuel pressure was not rising as high as I wanted it, and my injectors were starting to get close to 100% once going past 1 Bar of boost. Obviously doing a quick pull here and there at 100% wasn't going to be too dangerous, but I knew that when the car was out on the street I wanted to get as close to 85% injector duty cycle on full chat in order to have some safety headroom on the fueling.

 

Mathematically the Walbro255 should of been able to flow enough fuel without issue for my target boost levels. However if I was expected a 10psi rise in fuel pressure with 10psi of boost, I could only see a 6-7psi rise in fuel pressure. So I got one of my mates to sit in the boot of the car whilst I did a pull, using a multimeter to measure the 12v feed that came from the FPC, and it showed 12.8v at idle before tapering off to 10.9v under boost.

 

It was obvious that the voltage to the pump was inefficient so the supra came off the dyno and I spent some time ripping out the old factory fuel pump wiring and replaced it with an ECU controlled relay circuit that would provide as thicker battery voltage feed to the fuel pump. With the new wiring in, the fuel pump was getting 14.5 volts on idle and dropping to 13.9 on full boost. Immediately the top end of my fueling became rich, and fuel pressure was rising with a 1:1 ratio.

 

I will revisit the FPC wiring, as having a single relay fuel pump control only allows the ECU to turn the pump on or off. Wheras if I can sort the issue with the FPC, I will be able to control the duty cycle given to the pump at any set point, so I can have it running in low power mode whilst on idle, kind of like how the stock system is meant to work.

 

Anyway with the fueling sorted, I tidied up the fuel map up top and started looking at optimizing the ignition timing as much as possible. I've currently pushed the ignition timing an area which is a "normal" to be at, but I need to upgrade my knock det can setup so I can filter the input audio by certain frequencies. In the higher RPM it is really hard to hear anything through all the valvetrain noise and makes me nervous to push the ignition any further at this stage. My ECU logs show that there is no knock when I push the ignition some more, but I really want to be confident in my audio so I can cross check the results and not just rely on the ECU.

 

Anyway for the moment I'm happy with :

 

367 HP & 387 Ft.Lbs @ the wheels

431 HP & 455 Ft.Lbs @ the flywheel

Boost = 1 Bar

AFR Target = 0.78 Lambda under full boost.

440cc Jspec injectors sitting at 86% DC% on full chat.

Chinese T70 turbo is a bit laggy, but can't complain on performance for £150

 

but I think the engine has some more to give with the ignition tuning.

 

Next up I'll be playing with my adjustable cam pulleys and see what sort of gains I can get from that.

 

[Karl M N]

Where did you get the car dynoed? I was struggling to find a place a few months ago and I think the car is ready to give it a go now.

[Mike2JZ]

Where did you get the car dynoed? I was struggling to find a place a few months ago and I think the car is ready to give it a go now.

 

Sent you a PM

[Mike2JZ]

So far everything has been running smoothly, haven't broken anything yet. Need to get some larger injectors soon and crank the boost up some more, hopefully at the start of the new year.

 

Rigged up a microphone and camera today to get some video action.

 

 

Sounds pretty sweet. Just needs more boost

 

Might be taking the supra on a winter trip into europe in the next few weeks. Definitely going to need some winter tyres I think. Other than that, no major plans for the car at the moment, just enjoying it.

[Supraleeturbo]

Sound naughty mate

[Mike2JZ]

So in preparation for the winter trip to Switzerland I got some beefy winter tyres in case I found myself in a snowy situation. 265/45/18

 

 

Also bumped up the suspension all around to give the chassis more clearance so I didn't turn into a snow plow.

 

Whilst going over the suspension I noticed my rear right shock was pretty knackered and I found the spring had jumped the locking rings. Looking at the manual for Tein Super Streets, it showed that the shocks should have a large washer for the spring base to sit on. My setup dosen't have this...bit late to complain to the person who sold them to me so I put some stock suspension on the rear of the car. Will need to grab some new suspension this year!

 

 

With that done, I gave the engine a quick tune on the dyno. Basically turned the ignition down a tad just in case the fuel abroad wasn't the same as Tesco 99, so the knock system wouldn't have to work as hard should their be any knock. Also set my cruising AFR targets a little leaner then usual to try and get some more MPG. Also made sure I had some pops and bangs ready for some swiss tunnels.

 

 

With the tyres done and the car given a once over / service, went and gave the tyres a quick test in the damp/cold.

 

Was not expecting these tyres to spin all the way till 4th. Passenger nearly shat his pants. Not used to running 45 sidewall tyres. Wheel spin felt like sking through fresh snow on them.

 

[video=youtube;dGNmbe-90VE]

Edited January 15, 2018 by Mike2JZ (see edit history)

[Mike2JZ]

Got the supra all packed up shortly after, got a nice early start in France and started heading towards Switzerland.

 

Couple of hours into the journey I merged onto a motorway in third. Went WOT to get up to speed and as boost kicked in, I heard the sound of something mechanical breaking and lost all drive.

 

As the panic started to kick in, I flash backed to me thinking "yeah I don't need europe breakdown insurance" 24 hours previous

 

Honestly thought the engine had let go, but couldn't see any smoke. No error warnings on the Dash, so gave the throttle a quick blip and still the engine was still alive. And then it dawned on me "dude you've got a W58 on a single turbo". Ohhhhh

 

Tried 4th gear and it drove. Tried 5th gear, and it drove.

 

 

Slowed down at the next service station, and cautiously tested 1st and 2nd. Both working still

 

 

Not ideal losing third, but I figured it would get me to Switzerland. So I went back to trying to enjoy the rest of the drive.

 

[Mike2JZ]

Made it to my destination. Aside from the box making some strange sounds the car still drove alright.

 

Found a very helpful swiss jap importer/tuner, Jesse @ Hanshin Imports. Dude was a legend, tried to help me find a W58 replacement box on xmas eve. No luck there, but he helped me source an R154 from a MKIII Supra for £750 and let me use his garage to change gearbox oil. If you're ever in the area, give him a shout.

 

Fast forward a couple weeks and it was time to drive back to the UK. What else could go wrong?

 

Set off early in the morning and followed Google Maps on the shortest route back through the mountains to leave Switzerland.

 

 

Wish I had a GoPro on the car. Started off on what I thought was a small hill, ended up having to scale a bloody mountain covered in snow for a good hour. Snow tyres did not let me down thankfully. Super enjoyable drive actually, think I'll do it again next year if I can.

 

[video=youtube;uegEky-lYVI]

 

Drove past a ski resort with people waiting to hit the ski slopes at one point. The confused looks I was getting was amazing. Some english nutter driving a supra that sounds like it's gearbox was about to break, going sideways up a mountain. Loved it.

 

After the mountain I joined the motorway again and go a little throttle happy in second. Bang, lost second gear and noise on gearbox sounded even worse.

 

 

 

Before the box had a bit of a rattle to it. It had now developed a full on knock.

 

 

Only 600 miles to go with 3 gears. I was balls deep at this point, no point trying to turn back. Turn the music up to the max and start praying.

 

Box was completely fubared but good old supra got me home. By the time I got to Eurotunnel I had to do a small launch every time I wanted to pull away otherwise the box would lock up.

 

Edited January 15, 2018 by Mike2JZ (see edit history)

[Mike2JZ]

On the plus side aside from the gearbox, car ran superbly. No more issues with oil returns, boost leaks etc.

 

So I've got two W58's in the garage that also met their demise in a similar way to mine. Hoping out of the 3 I can rebuild one good one.

 

In the meantime I'm on the hunt for R154 flywheel, clutch, mkiii prop. See how long I can get an R154 to last before that probably goes bang at some point.

 

Supra has been sat in the corner since I got back collecting dust, but tonight I pulled the engine and box out to see how bad the box was.

 

Metal shavings are always a good start.

 

 

"I'll take broken gears for 200, Alex"

 

 

And la piece de resistance

 

 

Good luck trying to find replacement gears, let alone gears for the secondary shaft. Game Over for this box I think. Will salvage what I can but sad to see it like this. Was such a nice box till some idiot blew it up

 

So Supra is off the road whilst I save up for the rest of the R154 bits.

 

In the meantime I'm going to keep myself busy with:

 

- Relocating battery and fusebox to boot.

- Ditching spare wheel and making a small boost build to house fusebox, battery, amps, water meth tank, fuel pump ecu etc.

- 550cc UK injector install + injector resistor pack

- Outside of car getting a fresh coat of 040 Super white.

 

More fun soon!

[The Raven]

LMAO that gearbox!

 

Im still amazed it made it back

[mellonman]

Sounds like you had fun mate.you sure you got to do the resistor pack stuff now you have the link ecu ?

[JamieP]

You did well getting home mike. Thanks for the update, nice read.

[Josh42]

Well done on getting it home mate, that’s some drive.

 

I wasn’t so lucky when my W58 let go, I lost all gears. Fortunately I was 2miles from home.

 

Good shout on the R154

 

 

 

[mplavery]

Jesus you did do well ! lol

 

crazy WEATHER, good call for the winter tyres though !

 

So how did you get a smooth finish doing the wrinkle paint ? . Never done it before but going to have a go on my missis car on some parts

[Mike2JZ]

Cheers guys, makes for a good story

 

Sounds like you had fun mate.you sure you got to do the resistor pack stuff now you have the link ecu ?

 

Yeah type of Link I'm running only supports high impedance injectors. So I'll have to wire some in-line injector resistors for the UK spec 550's to work. Or I'll just find some top feed injectors if a good deal comes up.

 

Jesus you did do well ! lol

 

crazy WEATHER, good call for the winter tyres though !

 

So how did you get a smooth finish doing the wrinkle paint ? . Never done it before but going to have a go on my missis car on some parts

 

Ignore the instructions on the tin. Prep the surface like you would trying to paint anything else, the cleaner/smoother the surface the better the result.

 

Apply 1 coat of wrinkle paint. Covering all areas sufficiently, but not so much that you start getting runs. Get a heat gun onto the part immediately after. After a few minutes of you giving heat to all areas of the part, you should see the magic start to happen and the wrinkles forming. Once all areas of part have wrinkled, leave to dry and finishing curing for a few hours and you're done.

 

Sounds simple and it is, but might take a few goes before you get the oem-like finish. If you make any mistakes, you can just add another layer of wrinkle paint and heat it up. Usually sorts out any issues.

Edited January 15, 2018 by Mike2JZ (see edit history)

[mplavery]

Cheers guys, makes for a good story

 

 

 

Yeah type of Link I'm running only supports high impedance injectors. So I'll have to wire some in-line injector resistors for the UK spec 550's to work. Or I'll just find some top feed injectors if a good deal comes up.

 

 

 

Ignore the instructions on the tin. Prep the surface like you would trying to paint anything else, the cleaner/smoother the surface the better the result.

 

Apply 1 coat of wrinkle paint. Covering all areas sufficiently, but not so much that you start getting runs. Get a heat gun onto the part immediately after. After a few minutes of you giving heat to all areas of the part, you should see the magic start to happen and the wrinkles forming. Once all areas of part have wrinkled, leave to dry and finishing curing for a few hours and you're done.

 

Sounds simple and it is, but might take a few goes before you get the oem-like finish. If you make any mistakes, you can just add another layer of wrinkle paint and heat it up. Usually sorts out any issues.

 

Cheers Mike !