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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

N/A induction kit questions


Morzy2k5

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I have noticed people don't like running induction kits due to large amounts of heat soak and poor filteration.

My question is,what do you think it would be like if I relocated the air filter into the wing and down towards the air duct in the front bumper where the indicator Is?as it would be getting maximum cold air with zero chance of heat soak,but

On the downside it would be closer to the road and may draw up moisture. Let me know what you think as I may fabricate a full stainless pipe up to lead it into the wing over the weekend and make it sit something like this

 

image

Edited by Morzy2k5 (see edit history)
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Pointless IMO.

 

Toyota got it pretty right with a stock airbox, just get a panel filter and save yourself the time and money on something that you won't notice any gain from whatsoever.

 

If I was you unless you're going NA-T or TT the only things you might consider is:

 

A full decat setup

Cat back exhaust

Panel filter

Possible aftermarket NA ecu if you can find one

Bodymods

 

What you will be told here though (and I agree too) is first make sure's the cars well serviced (brakes/tyres/fluids etc) before going down any mod routes.

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Well my car has currently got a full manifold back stainless exhaust with no cats,a toms ecu and a hks induction kit fitted,I was just thinking the more cooler air the better.and cleaning wise you would just need to remove arch liner to gain access to the air filter.i haven't got the standard airbox you see.and it wouldn't cost me a penny as I would make it all my Self.shorly with the airfilter having direct cold air hitting against it via the front Bumper would be far better than a standard airbox duct can channel

Air in.as it's right in the lower left hand vent in the bumper.

Edited by Morzy2k5 (see edit history)
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Yes it's a toms tech II,I haven't got anything to compare to buddy.as i got it with it already on the car.and the previous owner didn't even know it was fitted lol,I found it while checking my ecu out and txt him and he didn't have a clue it had an aftermarket ecu.i suppose these are quite rare then?

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Yeah I noticed the speed limiter has also been removed by the ecu,and it also revs to 8k rpm. I will mock up some stainless piping if I get time over the weekend and see what it's like.cant do any harm to try it out and see if it works. It does go very well for an n/a...and there is a good noticeable diffenrece at 4-5k it really starts to pull.

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I made a similar box on my old NA and had a vent cut into the bonnet directly above the filter, and had a ducting pipe going from the front of the bumper under the headlight to the air filter, no more heat soak and still easy to change the filter.

 

Did you notice a diffenrece with all the ducting and cold air?

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

 

Well where your cold air feed from the front bumper is on those pics behind the indicator.that is where I am going to put the actual cone filter.maximum cold air availble all the time. It can only be a good thing.

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Did you notice a diffenrece with all the ducting and cold air?

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

 

 

Well where your cold air feed from the front bumper is on those pics behind the indicator.that is where I am going to put the actual cone filter.maximum cold air availble all the time. It can only be a good thing.

 

Yes a huge difference.

 

I was double decat, autobahn manifold, and an Apexi hard pipe induction.

 

With this ducting/shield and a vent in bonnet it was definitely quicker.

Other NA owners commented how much quicker I pulled away from them

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I think its a good idea and for me at least it has worked well.

 

People keep posting how good the original panel filter design is and I do agree, but then you look at their cars and they have a FMIC and/or a shiny slam plate thing virtually blocking all the air to the top OEM scoop which makes nonsense of the work Toyota put in to getting the cold air up to that top scoop. I left my stock airbox in with a HKS panel filter until I went FMIC and then once you have removed all the oem ducting in front of the rad its all a bit pointless and cooler air can be found elsewhere imo.

 

This is how I did mine after seeing Slutters thread, I have since lost the K&N and now use a large Ramair filter. Its easy to change, just take the headlight out and that provides full access.

 

image

 

image

 

 

image

 

To the OP, what bit of pipe do you need the measurement for, the throttle body? I can take exact measurements from the wife's NA over the weekend if you like.

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That is exactly what I'm going to do ^^^ it looks ace and like you say you noticed a diffenrece,albeit yours is a turbo but it should still work on an n/a! I have managed to get hold Of some 76mm stainless tube so I'm going to use that. Hopefully the weather holds off over the weekend and if it does I will take aload of pics for

Other n/a car owners

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The whole induction system on the N/A is resonant, and if you change it this resonance will be lost, or certainly changed. It aids cylinder filling at certain RPM / throttle openings to maximise the torque, and is aided by a flap that alters the plenum volume pneumatically. An N/A is totally different to a turbo where the system resonance is far less critical. I have ye to drive an N/A with an after market replacement for the stock air box that drives any better. Most drive noticeably worse...

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The loss of resonant length and additional friction will reduce bhp but might increase the torque?

 

A before and after dyno run might shed a little light on this, but as long as you're happy with it, be happy.

 

Exactly, its your car and well done for having a go.

 

The only thing I would say is to ensure you use the later generation of triple layer elements in your mushroom filter, the early ones not only had a reputation for poor filtering but also tended to dissintegrate and got sucked up into the engine. Later triple layer ones are said to be fine though.

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