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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Project Procrastination


mwilkinson

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Some more parts through. I already had the ABS sensors awhile back. I've bought new hubs, bearings, flanges etc.. I'm awaiting another order with the remaining new boots and hand brake shoe parts.

 

I also still need to send the dust shields off for powder coating.

 

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I've also reassembled a chunk of the rear subframe. All new parts except for the handbrake cable brackets that I media blasted and repainted.

 

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I think this might be the slowest rebuild in Supra history :D

 

Project Imperceptible?

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You should noticed the difference on the new bushes and wheel bearings, its like back to the new car stiffness and poise and road noise rumble level.

 

Is that greasers you have on the roll bar bushes, never seen that before on a Supra? If it runs into the bush and helps eliminate the conical wear on the roll bar tubing its a well worthwhile mod.

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Mate you are insane. I must say, hats off. Its a pity some parts can be had/found elsewhere in the world whilst others aren't. I tried ordering a scuttle panel as I don't have one. Toyota say its discontinued. There are few other items like the door outer weather strip moldings I am missing which one only was still available at Toyota. I was getting annoyed repeatedly hearing this so I opted the use of Ebay and FB. I have found alot of the parts but yes, I guess you can't compare oem brand new with oem 2nd hand old or good condition parts.

Keep it up. The only thing that comes to mind with this thread of yours, don't drive the car once its all fitted and done :D

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  • 4 months later...

I've ordered some outstanding clips and bolts. But the big ticket items were a set of new UK spec 6 spd drive shafts.

 

Big thanks to Paul at TCB for his ability to source the parts for me at very good prices.

 

Should be with me by the end on Jan. I may sell my current UK Spec drive shafts, once I know I've ordered the correct replacements.

 

I've also had my dust shields and Titan anti-roll bars back from the powder coaters.

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Thanks Russ. Although it's a long way off from that.

 

Hopefully the rear clip will be done in early 2019. Then it's engine out and front subframe refurbishment.

 

I'm then going to put the shell on a rotisserie ready for either dipping or media blasting. But that will only be done once the other mechanicals are fully refurbished.

Edited by mwilkinson (see edit history)
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  • 1 month later...

I've bought myself a home electroplating setup (classic plating). All in it's about £400 including the bench power supply and ancillary aquarium heaters etc.

 

The zinc plating part is very straight forward and I could yield some very good results with little effort from the start.

 

Getting the passivate to work properly was another matter. It's quite temperature sensitive, as in you'll get a colour on the metal at any temperature, but the coating will be mixed and often comes away.

 

I found heating it to 25 degrees to be key. Also only 5 seconds of immersion produces a very good colour. Post application I dry the piece with a cold compressed air to reduce any retained water on the surface of the piece. Then it just gets dried in front of a hot electric fan.

 

I've mainly been messing around. Here are some of the results.

 

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I also have a blue passivate and black passivate kit to try.

 

I will be limiting the parts I plate and use to non structural ones due to concerns over hydrogen embrittlement. I'm currently looking at getting an oven to bake the parts to assist in reducing concerns over any embrittlement.

 

It has taken a bit to get this going but once setup it's quite a simple process and through the course of renovating the whole car, will undoubtably save me money.

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I'm currently looking at getting an oven to bake the parts to assist in reducing concerns over any embrittlement.

 

Annealing should ideally be done shortly after whatever process has been applied to the metal you're worried about. Hydrogen assisted cracking will happen faster (and at colder temperatures) when the concentration gradient is high (as it will be with a coating).

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Annealing should ideally be done shortly after whatever process has been applied to the metal you're worried about. Hydrogen assisted cracking will happen faster (and at colder temperatures) when the concentration gradient is high (as it will be with a coating).

 

Sorry, I wasn't clear in my original post. Such a process wasn't for those parts already subject to the plating, but on those to be done in the future.

 

These were simply test pieces.

Edited by mwilkinson (see edit history)
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ah, fair enough. Just thought I'd let you know in case you'd left stuff sitting for a long time.

 

You seem to know about this, so let me ask you about embrittlement in general. From what I've been reading it is only of significance in high tensile steels, spring steels and alloys.

 

How significant is the risk of embrittlement in such a process on mild steel brackets and bolts?

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To be honest, I'm not the best person to ask... My knowledge of it applies largely to the context of nuclear reactors, the conditions under which different types of corrosion/cracking occur for various types of steel and occasionally titanium. I just remember some elements of hydrogen assisted cracking and annealing in different materials. It's been a few years since I really applied any of this knowledge but here are the basic points:

 

- stainless steels are naturally resistant to hydrogen embrittlement

- I wouldn't expect it to be a huge issue for stuff on a car that's exposed to atmospheric conditions most of the time; for hydrogen assisted cracking to be a real issue, you'd need to expose the parts to elemental or molecular hydrogen (so basically acidic conditions).

- Electroplating will actually be the main cause of the problem as far as hydrogen assisted cracking is concerned, as you get molecular/elemental hydrogen forming at the metal boundary during the plating process - that's why I mentioned annealing it fairly quickly after you've done the electroplating work.

- Tensile stress will exacerbate the hydrogen assisted cracking process, but unless you've got conditions in which hydrogen is diffusing into the metal and degrading the grain boundaries within the component, this is largely not going to matter.

 

I think this is pretty much a non-issue to be honest, just anneal the stuff you electroplate within a few hours and you'll be fine. Mechanical failure of bolts and brackets is going to come from other forms of corrosion or stress fracture to be perfectly honest.

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  • 10 months later...

I had another batch of parts arrive just before Christmas from TCB. This completes all replacements nuts, bolts and grommets on the rear if the car. I've also extended this to include all new grommets for window and side trims.

 

I've also bought replacement brake lines.

 

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I've also finished the fuel tank clean up.

 

Started off like this from the car.

 

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As with a few others I know about, the breather pipe on mine was quite corroded. I tried to recover this but a submerged air test showed it had become a sieve.

 

Toyota had discontinued the part, so I followed Barry's advice (rider) and made my own.

 

I ended up using 1/4" cupro nickel pipe. I did try aluminium pipe but I found the wall thickness to be a significant barrier to effective bending. I pained the final pipe and used heat shrink on the high run areas.

 

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Finished pipe attached.

 

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I've also swapped out the Bosch 044 pump and hanger. Thanks to Ben (FrankBullet) for the pump hanger.

 

I've replaced it with a Walbro 450 E85 compatible pump. The electrical connections were coated with a PTFE heatshronk to avoid fuel vapour corrosion. I also had to buy a rubber boot from Glencoe as this didn't come with the kit.

 

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I also replaced my rather beat up plastic pump nut (for want of a better word).

 

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The finished assembled and cleaned tank ready to go back in. As you'll have seen through the thread I've bough new tank guard, staps and bolts. All fuel lines and brackets will be new too.

 

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  • 2 months later...

I managed to get most of the rear hubs assembled this weekend.

 

Wasn't too bad. I bought a 20 ton press which was total overkill for the job. Didn't even get to 1 ton of pressure.

 

I had a fairly comprehensive bearing press kit from eBay which proved to have all the necessary mandrels other than for the ABS dust shield.

 

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This was after the new bearing had been pressed into the new hub.

 

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Snap ring installed.

 

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Refurbished dust shield attached. I forget to take a picture of the dust shield being installed.

 

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New hub flanges ready to be installed.

 

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Rear seal placed ready to be pressed in.

 

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Rear seal installed.

 

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Unfortunately I didn't have a correct sized mandrel to install the abs sensor dust shield.

Edited by mwilkinson (see edit history)
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98mm is an unusual size, you can get 4 inch solid steel bars. Seeing you bought a press to do the bearings why not buy a lathe and turn to a 98mm pipe with 5mm wall. Or find a friend with a lathe. Or a engineering workshop, it shouldn't cost a lot as it'd be a quick turning job.

 

https://www.metals4u.co.uk/mild-steel/c6/round/c2237/bright-round/c134/4-(101.6mm)-dia/p14742

Edited by rider (see edit history)
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98mm is an unusual size, you can get 4 inch solid steel bars. Seeing you bought a press to do the bearings why not buy a lathe and turn to a 98mm pipe with 5mm wall. Or find a friend with a lathe. Or a engineering workshop, it shouldn't cost a lot as it'd be a quick turning job.

 

https://www.metals4u.co.uk/mild-steel/c6/round/c2237/bright-round/c134/4-(101.6mm)-dia/p14742

 

If it comes to that, which I suspect it will, the Ebay kit has a part that could do the job with a small amount of lathe work.

 

I'd love to buy a lathe, but simply don't have the room for it.

Edited by mwilkinson (see edit history)
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