mwilkinson Posted August 13, 2018 Author Share Posted August 13, 2018 Some more parts through. I already had the ABS sensors awhile back. I've bought new hubs, bearings, flanges etc.. I'm awaiting another order with the remaining new boots and hand brake shoe parts. I also still need to send the dust shields off for powder coating. I've also reassembled a chunk of the rear subframe. All new parts except for the handbrake cable brackets that I media blasted and repainted. I think this might be the slowest rebuild in Supra history Project Imperceptible? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted August 13, 2018 Share Posted August 13, 2018 You should noticed the difference on the new bushes and wheel bearings, its like back to the new car stiffness and poise and road noise rumble level. Is that greasers you have on the roll bar bushes, never seen that before on a Supra? If it runs into the bush and helps eliminate the conical wear on the roll bar tubing its a well worthwhile mod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted August 13, 2018 Author Share Posted August 13, 2018 (edited) I've Titan anti-roll bars and these are the bushes and brackets that come with the kit. My original Titan bush brackets were suitable for restoration, but Titan offered me a great deal on the replacements. So I bought new. Edited August 14, 2018 by mwilkinson (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SupraTRD_MK4 Posted August 14, 2018 Share Posted August 14, 2018 Mate you are insane. I must say, hats off. Its a pity some parts can be had/found elsewhere in the world whilst others aren't. I tried ordering a scuttle panel as I don't have one. Toyota say its discontinued. There are few other items like the door outer weather strip moldings I am missing which one only was still available at Toyota. I was getting annoyed repeatedly hearing this so I opted the use of Ebay and FB. I have found alot of the parts but yes, I guess you can't compare oem brand new with oem 2nd hand old or good condition parts. Keep it up. The only thing that comes to mind with this thread of yours, don't drive the car once its all fitted and done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted December 20, 2018 Author Share Posted December 20, 2018 I've ordered some outstanding clips and bolts. But the big ticket items were a set of new UK spec 6 spd drive shafts. Big thanks to Paul at TCB for his ability to source the parts for me at very good prices. Should be with me by the end on Jan. I may sell my current UK Spec drive shafts, once I know I've ordered the correct replacements. I've also had my dust shields and Titan anti-roll bars back from the powder coaters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Raven Posted December 22, 2018 Share Posted December 22, 2018 Nice nice mate. Looking forward to seeing it all put back on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted December 22, 2018 Author Share Posted December 22, 2018 (edited) Thanks Russ. Although it's a long way off from that. Hopefully the rear clip will be done in early 2019. Then it's engine out and front subframe refurbishment. I'm then going to put the shell on a rotisserie ready for either dipping or media blasting. But that will only be done once the other mechanicals are fully refurbished. Edited February 8, 2019 by mwilkinson (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted February 11, 2019 Author Share Posted February 11, 2019 I've bought myself a home electroplating setup (classic plating). All in it's about £400 including the bench power supply and ancillary aquarium heaters etc. The zinc plating part is very straight forward and I could yield some very good results with little effort from the start. Getting the passivate to work properly was another matter. It's quite temperature sensitive, as in you'll get a colour on the metal at any temperature, but the coating will be mixed and often comes away. I found heating it to 25 degrees to be key. Also only 5 seconds of immersion produces a very good colour. Post application I dry the piece with a cold compressed air to reduce any retained water on the surface of the piece. Then it just gets dried in front of a hot electric fan. I've mainly been messing around. Here are some of the results. I also have a blue passivate and black passivate kit to try. I will be limiting the parts I plate and use to non structural ones due to concerns over hydrogen embrittlement. I'm currently looking at getting an oven to bake the parts to assist in reducing concerns over any embrittlement. It has taken a bit to get this going but once setup it's quite a simple process and through the course of renovating the whole car, will undoubtably save me money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_bandido Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 I'm currently looking at getting an oven to bake the parts to assist in reducing concerns over any embrittlement. Annealing should ideally be done shortly after whatever process has been applied to the metal you're worried about. Hydrogen assisted cracking will happen faster (and at colder temperatures) when the concentration gradient is high (as it will be with a coating). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted February 11, 2019 Author Share Posted February 11, 2019 (edited) Annealing should ideally be done shortly after whatever process has been applied to the metal you're worried about. Hydrogen assisted cracking will happen faster (and at colder temperatures) when the concentration gradient is high (as it will be with a coating). Sorry, I wasn't clear in my original post. Such a process wasn't for those parts already subject to the plating, but on those to be done in the future. These were simply test pieces. Edited February 11, 2019 by mwilkinson (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_bandido Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 ah, fair enough. Just thought I'd let you know in case you'd left stuff sitting for a long time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted February 11, 2019 Author Share Posted February 11, 2019 ah, fair enough. Just thought I'd let you know in case you'd left stuff sitting for a long time. You seem to know about this, so let me ask you about embrittlement in general. From what I've been reading it is only of significance in high tensile steels, spring steels and alloys. How significant is the risk of embrittlement in such a process on mild steel brackets and bolts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
el_bandido Posted February 11, 2019 Share Posted February 11, 2019 To be honest, I'm not the best person to ask... My knowledge of it applies largely to the context of nuclear reactors, the conditions under which different types of corrosion/cracking occur for various types of steel and occasionally titanium. I just remember some elements of hydrogen assisted cracking and annealing in different materials. It's been a few years since I really applied any of this knowledge but here are the basic points: - stainless steels are naturally resistant to hydrogen embrittlement - I wouldn't expect it to be a huge issue for stuff on a car that's exposed to atmospheric conditions most of the time; for hydrogen assisted cracking to be a real issue, you'd need to expose the parts to elemental or molecular hydrogen (so basically acidic conditions). - Electroplating will actually be the main cause of the problem as far as hydrogen assisted cracking is concerned, as you get molecular/elemental hydrogen forming at the metal boundary during the plating process - that's why I mentioned annealing it fairly quickly after you've done the electroplating work. - Tensile stress will exacerbate the hydrogen assisted cracking process, but unless you've got conditions in which hydrogen is diffusing into the metal and degrading the grain boundaries within the component, this is largely not going to matter. I think this is pretty much a non-issue to be honest, just anneal the stuff you electroplate within a few hours and you'll be fine. Mechanical failure of bolts and brackets is going to come from other forms of corrosion or stress fracture to be perfectly honest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted February 13, 2019 Author Share Posted February 13, 2019 Thanks for the info. I'm going to continue to research this. I am tempted to see if I can find somewhere that can undertake some tests on a few of the bolts I've done to see what impact the electroplating and pre pickling process has had on the parts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted February 14, 2019 Author Share Posted February 14, 2019 So the items I ordered before Christmas arrived. Mainly a heat shield and the two new drive shafts. I also got an assortment of bolts and grommets for the rear end I was missing. Thankfully the drive shafts look the correct size and have the ABS inductor rings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted January 13, 2020 Author Share Posted January 13, 2020 I had another batch of parts arrive just before Christmas from TCB. This completes all replacements nuts, bolts and grommets on the rear if the car. I've also extended this to include all new grommets for window and side trims. I've also bought replacement brake lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted January 13, 2020 Author Share Posted January 13, 2020 I've also finished the fuel tank clean up. Started off like this from the car. As with a few others I know about, the breather pipe on mine was quite corroded. I tried to recover this but a submerged air test showed it had become a sieve. Toyota had discontinued the part, so I followed Barry's advice (rider) and made my own. I ended up using 1/4" cupro nickel pipe. I did try aluminium pipe but I found the wall thickness to be a significant barrier to effective bending. I pained the final pipe and used heat shrink on the high run areas. Finished pipe attached. I've also swapped out the Bosch 044 pump and hanger. Thanks to Ben (FrankBullet) for the pump hanger. I've replaced it with a Walbro 450 E85 compatible pump. The electrical connections were coated with a PTFE heatshronk to avoid fuel vapour corrosion. I also had to buy a rubber boot from Glencoe as this didn't come with the kit. I also replaced my rather beat up plastic pump nut (for want of a better word). The finished assembled and cleaned tank ready to go back in. As you'll have seen through the thread I've bough new tank guard, staps and bolts. All fuel lines and brackets will be new too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 Matt you are everything that's good about OCD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Reviews Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 And everything I aspire to be... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted January 13, 2020 Author Share Posted January 13, 2020 Matt you are everything that's good about OCD Cheers guys. It's super painful on the wallet and I might pop when next I get asked when it will all be finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted March 15, 2020 Author Share Posted March 15, 2020 (edited) I managed to get most of the rear hubs assembled this weekend. Wasn't too bad. I bought a 20 ton press which was total overkill for the job. Didn't even get to 1 ton of pressure. I had a fairly comprehensive bearing press kit from eBay which proved to have all the necessary mandrels other than for the ABS dust shield. This was after the new bearing had been pressed into the new hub. Snap ring installed. Refurbished dust shield attached. I forget to take a picture of the dust shield being installed. New hub flanges ready to be installed. Rear seal placed ready to be pressed in. Rear seal installed. Unfortunately I didn't have a correct sized mandrel to install the abs sensor dust shield. Edited March 15, 2020 by mwilkinson (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted March 15, 2020 Author Share Posted March 15, 2020 Anyone got a tool for the ABS dust shield? I need a tube with O/D 98 and I/D 95. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rider Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 (edited) 98mm is an unusual size, you can get 4 inch solid steel bars. Seeing you bought a press to do the bearings why not buy a lathe and turn to a 98mm pipe with 5mm wall. Or find a friend with a lathe. Or a engineering workshop, it shouldn't cost a lot as it'd be a quick turning job. https://www.metals4u.co.uk/mild-steel/c6/round/c2237/bright-round/c134/4-(101.6mm)-dia/p14742 Edited March 15, 2020 by rider (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwilkinson Posted March 15, 2020 Author Share Posted March 15, 2020 (edited) 98mm is an unusual size, you can get 4 inch solid steel bars. Seeing you bought a press to do the bearings why not buy a lathe and turn to a 98mm pipe with 5mm wall. Or find a friend with a lathe. Or a engineering workshop, it shouldn't cost a lot as it'd be a quick turning job. https://www.metals4u.co.uk/mild-steel/c6/round/c2237/bright-round/c134/4-(101.6mm)-dia/p14742 If it comes to that, which I suspect it will, the Ebay kit has a part that could do the job with a small amount of lathe work. I'd love to buy a lathe, but simply don't have the room for it. Edited March 15, 2020 by mwilkinson (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev.O Posted March 15, 2020 Share Posted March 15, 2020 Love the work you have been carrying out. Do you have any photos of your garage, as I’m very envious right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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