Project Procrastination

[wile e coyote]

great catch up

[mwilkinson]

A few updates.

I've now rebuilt the wing mirrors and these are installed.

I started of by refurbishing the aluminium brackets that are part of the lower section of the wing mirror.

I media blasted them in my cabinet and then repainted them a colour as close to the OEM colour as I could get.  This was a Range Rover metallic green colour.

Next I needed to clean the motor up and reseal the motor cover and the area where the loom exists the motor housing.  Both these seals were in need of refurbishment.

Having cleaned up the parts I bought a butyl tape to replace the previous seal.

I had to cut strips of the tape from the main role.

I then sealed the cover and used a white silicone to seal up the loom exit from the motor housing.

The next step was to reattach the studs to the aluminium painted base peice.  I had the studs plated along with all the other screws and nuts needed for the wing mirrors.

I then inserted the aluminium base peice into the painted section.  This is then secured with 3 x phillips headed screws.

Next I inserted the motor back into the main painted part of the wing mirror. This is then secured in place with 2 x phillips headed screws.

There are 2 x further screws that need to be inserted at the base.

I then needed to join the two halves together.  The two parts are held together with 2 x phillips headed screws. These also needed to have thread lock applied to ensure they don't unwind with vibration - this is as per factory.

[mwilkinson]

Next I needed to rebuild the electrical connector.

I first inserted the pins.

Next I inserted a small plastic section.

I then installed the rubber seal. I wiped this is a silicone lubricant before inserting.

There is then a final plastic insert.

You then have to affix the plug bracket using a single phillips headed screw. I also used loctite thread lock as this secure a section of the upper wing mirror to the lower.

You can then install the lower rubber seal.  This will stretch over the various assembled parts.

I then installed the new mirror glass.

All I then needed to do was attach them to the doors.  This is done with 2 x M10 nuts.

 

Edited March 29 by mwilkinson (see edit history)

[mwilkinson]

I also installed the front wiper motor.  Paul Cheshire had refurbished this for me a few years back, so this was a simple bolt in job.

I also tested and installed the third brakelight.

[HarleyFDMD]

The detail!! Honestly the effort you're putting into this makes me feel ashamed of myself

I like to think im doing a good job of my car.. until i read your updates.

[mwilkinson]

Sorted out the factory ariel today.

The factory ariel I'd purchased some years back is in pretty good condition.  It needed a good clean and I manged to get a new mast, and both parts of the outer ornament.  I also bought a new bolt to mount it and cleaned up the drain grommet and cut a new bit of silicone hose to replace the lost drain hose.

I had the lower bracket plated when I did the bulk order over Christmas.  It had some light rust, so was worth sorting out.

The top of the mast was very dirty and a bit corroded.  So I spent some time cleaning this area up.  I also cleaned the lower rubber grommet and applied some back to black type product on it to ensure it remained pliable.  I did the same to the drain hole grommet.

I then attached the drain hose to the bottom of the ariel and located and installed the grommet.

I then fitted the ariel to the body and placed the drain hose into the grommet.

The ariel is affixed by a single bolt.

I then installed the two new outer parts.

I had intended on installing the new mast, but I ran a test on the motor once installed, and having inspected the current mast I decided it was in pretty good condition and didnt need to be swapped out.  I'm going to keep the new mast as a spare instead.

[rider]

To think I threw away an aerial because the antenna wasn't lifting when the motor was churning away. I didn't know then that you could get a replacement part for the antenna so that aerial got thrown. I do hold that part as a spare on my garage shelf now.

It looks like your blast cabinet has external air. I've been thinking about buying a cabinet for years but the cfm on my narrow 1/4 air line wouldn't be enough to operate it effectively. What size bead or grit are you using and at what cfm air through what size air line? I have a 16cfm compressor but it struggles to drive air tools so it probably only delivers 10cfm through the narrow bore tubing. Which is fine for pumping tyres or paint spraying but I'd suspect is a bit weak for bead blasting.

[mwilkinson]

I do struggle with air pressure. I can't maintain a constant flow and have to prime and pull.  You get into a rhythm after awhile.

I'm running a 3HP 14cfm Wolf Dakota, with a 100l tank.  Like you I think it more like 10cfm at around 8 to 9 bar.  It gets worked quite hard whilst using the cabinet.

I'm currently running it off 1/4 lines although I did buy a pedal assembly and bigger lines.  You can see some of this in the image in the thread.  I'm not using that at the minute as I don't thing the compressor can handle it, and I'm finding the smaller line and gun setup more effective.

I generally use baking soda, but you get a lovely finish on Ali from using 250 micron glass beads.

On bigger items with heavy rust I'll use iron silicate.

Edited April 2 by mwilkinson (see edit history)

[mwilkinson]

It's been a fair few months since I've updated the thread and that's because I've not progressed the build much due to work and other commitment.

However, I've progressed a few bits recently.

I had a load of parts powder coated.  I had to get my front subframe re-coated.  I'd previously had this galvanised and powder coated, but it wasn't done properly and the galvanising sweated which affected the adhesion of the powder coating.

I also had a number of new parts done as the factory paint is a bit thin.

Ive now installed the tow hooks, front and rear.  I had plated the bolts myself some years back.

I've installed the rear mount supports.

I also installed the charcoal cannister bracket.

A few plastics clips got put in too.

[mwilkinson]

Today I sepnt time properly installing the rear bumper and lights.

Bumper bar first. Six bolts torqued to 42Nm.

I then set up the brackets on the rear bumper.

There are two retaining clips on the body. Ignore the fact I have 4.  These are just spares I've ordered.

To affix the bumper there are 6 nuts and 2 bolts.

There are then 9 plastic clips along the top.

Finally there is a single clip where the exhaust sits.

There is another row of clips on the bottom, which will need to wait until the fuel tank and guard are installed.

I then installed the number plate lighting.

In order to install the rear lights I needed to put the rear lock back in first.

Then to the rear lights themselves.

I first had to install the clips and associated grommets, there are three of each.  The side with the lock only has a single clip / grommet, the other side has 2.

Edited August 26 by mwilkinson (see edit history)

[mwilkinson]

I then installed the lights themselves.

Edited August 25 by mwilkinson (see edit history)

[The Raven]

Nice work mate

[mattdavies]

The level of detail on your rebuild is outstanding. 

Does it starting to look like a car again motivate you ? 

[mwilkinson]

Thanks Matt.

Yes, seeing the car start to look like a Supra again does help keep me motivated.

I'm just struggling to get time to work on the car at the minute, which means progress is slower - and that's not a good thing as it is slow enough in general!

[rider]

Few could share the attention to detail. I'd be worried it'd be like that 5,000 piece jigsaw with one piece somewhere safe you cannot recall. The big reveal will be awesome. Have you any plans to promo it with magazines etc?

[mwilkinson]

I've already had a few moments of either not being able to find a bit or finding bits I have no idea where they came from.

Endless hours scouring images and the internet have been done.

No plans for any promo of the car, that isn't really my thing.  I'll just admire and use it knowing the level of detail that has gone into the restoration.

[Homer]

Loving this thread and your attention to detail. It’s also very helpful for me to see which screws and clips should be used in some areas. Mine is a hodge podge of different things so I’m never sure which are oem or not! 

[mwilkinson]

What I'm noticing is that as original bolts, screws and nuts discontinue, Toyota themselves update the fixing number / part to a similar fixing as a replacement.  The fixing itself is often a different, colour, length and sometimes design.  What is consistent is the strength rating of the fixing.

[evinX]

On 9/6/2024 at 9:58 PM, mwilkinson said:

What I'm noticing is that as original bolts, screws and nuts discontinue, Toyota themselves update the fixing number / part to a similar fixing as a replacement.  The fixing itself is often a different, colour, length and sometimes design.  What is consistent is the strength rating of the fixing.

Ive just ended up using generic zinc coated bolts. Cheaper and not much different to oem that always get rust within a few months

[mwilkinson]

Absolutely you can do this for non-tensile specific fixings.  Plenty of M6 × 1mm pitch bolts throughout the car.

[evinX]

14 minutes ago, mwilkinson said:

Absolutely you can do this for non-tensile specific fixings.  Plenty of M6 × 1mm pitch bolts throughout the car.

High tensile I have not got into yet, not sure on how I would measure a oem bolts tensile strength

[mwilkinson]

OEM bolts have a marking system on the top of the fixing that denotes it's tensile strength.  Toyota do this in a series of classes. 4T through to 11T.

One of the manuals has a page explaining all the markings.  But it's essentially something like this:

(this isn't from the Supra manuals, just something I found on a quick search on the web).

 

[evinX]

11 hours ago, mwilkinson said:

OEM bolts have a marking system on the top of the fixing that denotes it's tensile strength.  Toyota do this in a series of classes. 4T through to 11T.

One of the manuals has a page explaining all the markings.  But it's essentially something like this:

(this isn't from the Supra manuals, just something I found on a quick search on the web).

 

That is sweet - ill get my brain to start thinking about that one in the background

 

Cheers